I just rebuilt my '93 3sgte & put 550 injectors in it. I modified the fuel rail & added an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. I hooked up the regulator wrong & ran full pump pressure to the injectors. (100+ psi) Now cylinders 3 & 4 arent firing right & the exhaust smells like raw fuel. Does anyone know if injectors can be damaged by too much fuel pressure, causing them to leak?
I am more concerned with internal damage. I am looking to get 400+ HP out of this motor, & I have heard that 550's wont cut it, so Im thinking of dropping in a set of SARD 800's. Any opinions on those?
Yeah there may possibly be some internal damage, but if they are leaking fuel, it would be from a broken O ring and/or a cracked injector. Only way to know is to pull them from the fuel rail. Pintle could be stuck in open postition too.
550's aren't gonna get you to 400+HP. They are good to about 350hp. I have heard good things about all SARD products. 800cc will get you to and beyond 400hp.
We have a member here ,user title Piddy, who has mucho SARD experience and SARD stuff on his 500+ HP MR2. He could tell you alot about thier products. And Where to get them.
You can find a post on this forum from him and you can PM him from there. He may see this thread and respond to it too. He doesn't come on as much as he used to, but he still helps out here. He's a pretty cool guy. Knows 2nd gen MR2's well.
Here's one of his latest posts. Click on his user name and you can send him a Private message from there. no egr on jdm motor
Sard 800's or Blitz 850's are both good options. 550's are definitely not going to cut it. Do you have more information on your car??? I hope you realize that you can't just throw in 800cc injectors, adjust fuel pressure and hope for the best. You are going to need some sort of fuel or engine management system to control it all. Not to mention some time on a dyno with a tuner.
Breaking the 300whp mark is expensive.... breaking the 400whp mark is retarded expensive.
Sard 800's or Blitz 850's are both good options. 550's are definitely not going to cut it. Do you have more information on your car??? I hope you realize that you can't just throw in 800cc injectors, adjust fuel pressure and hope for the best. You are going to need some sort of fuel or engine management system to control it all. Not to mention some time on a dyno with a tuner.
Breaking the 300whp mark is expensive.... breaking the 400whp mark is retarded expensive.
Ok, Im all ears! I think you can see by my previous post that I built the engine to take it, so what engine management are you speaking of? I had already planned on dyno time, but I knew that I needed to get the engine to run properly first to take it there.
Just so you know, I have over 30 years of experience as a mechanic & have built many hot cars over my life. I currently own a 1970 Chevelle SS with 600 HP, & a 1975 Cosworth Vega with only 2800 miles on it! This MR2 is probably the 20th hot car I have built in my lifetime, so I am very familiar with what is being talked about on these forums. However, being an "old Schooler", I prefer the Pre-ECU cars. This project is my first delve into the ECU realm, & I am builing it for my son. I am somewhat of a perfectionist, so I have spend a year & a half rebuilding this car from the ground up, because I want it to be right. I am confident that I built the engine , suspension, ect corectly, now I just need to get the electronics right.
I already have the following on the car:
FET turbo timer
Greddy Profec A Boost Controller
I also have an Apexi s-AFC which is not installed on the car because I am unsure of how it works, but Im guessing that it is "engine management".
I have some paperwork on the Blitz ECU, & I will try to dig it up & post what it says here.
I hear ya. Being 52 yrs old, I'm old school too. Those days were so much simpler with out all this computer stuff. Though i have only rebuilt 1 350( Chevelle Malibu), 250 inline 6 (Nova), Datsun 510 bored .040 over, header, dual point distributor , twin side draft zenith carbs(from 260Z), and converted from auto to 4 speed tranny, Volkswagon engines and my'91 MR2 Turbo. I don't have near your experience. Just a novice who enjoys doing it.
Piddy is ralking about engine managemnet that taps your ECU , controls and sets perimeters for ignition timing, A/F ratio,etc. The HP levels your shooting for are beyond the ECU's realm of managing. I don't know if your Apexi AFC will be enough. .
The top feed injectors you speak of will probably have to be rewired. I think they have a different impedence too.Piddy can elaborate more on all this when he gets back
My next door neighbor was totally into Covettes. But he had a Cosworth Vega(black w/gold stripping) that was his baby. He autoX'ed with it. Awsome and good looking car. Not to mention rare.
Glad to have you and your expertise on board!
Things get a lot more complicated when you switch to a car with an ECU. The SAFC really isn't sufficient for the power levels you want to run. There are plenty of aftermarket ECU's out there.... but they come at a price. The Apexi Power FC, AEM EMS and Hydra Nemesis are probably the 3 most popular with MR2's. These all pretty much require you to be sitting on the dyno with a laptop to get the car running and driveable.
I'm assuming you have a 2nd gen 3SGTE.... and I'm going to go from there.
We'll start out with intercooling. If the air you're shoving into your engine isn't cool enough.... you're gonna have a lot of stuff blowing up. Greddy or Greddy replicas are VERY affordable these days. You can pick new ones up for anywhere between $200 - $600 depending on the quality of the kit. I remember the days when Greddy IC's were $1,200.... and finding one used for $600 was a steal. Those will be sufficient to about the high 300whp range. The Spearco is more expensive (~$1,000 - NEW) but will get you over the 400whp mark. Then you have Japanese stuff like the Blitz or Phoenix Power that will run about $1,200 - USED... but are the largest side mount IC cores you can find. Then you have your custom options... first being an air-2-water IC.... which requires a heat exchanger in the front, pump, water tank, lines.... as well as new IC piping. Or you could go with a trunk mount... which basically requires you cutting the bottom of your trunk... cutting holes in your firewall.... etc. Here is my trunk mount:
Next up you're going to need to pick your turbo. I personally prefer Garrett style turbos.... but everyone has their own preference. Berk Technology, ATS Racing, KO Racing are the 3 main turbo kit people for MR2's. I'm personally running a HKS top mount kit:
For fuel... the 2nd gen fuel rail is pretty much crap. You will want to go with something bigger.... Wolfkatz and Speed Source both make good rails. You will probably want at least 800cc injectors (or equivalent). You will also need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a bigger fuel pump (OEM Supra TT pump -or Walbro 255lph are popular options). I'm running a Sard Fuel rail, Sard 800cc injectors, Walbro Pump, Sard FPR and braided lines all around.
The 2nd gen Intake Manifold is also a restriction. Most people go with either the RMR or the new'ish JUN replica (KU Engineering manifold). This may require a new throttle body and whatnot. Pic above is a 3rd gen KU Manifold with a Nissan Q45 Throttle body.
Don't forget the normal stuff like pistons, rods, cams... etc etc. All of that stuff is going to be what you're ussed to. Also you're going to need gauges, boost controller, clutch/flywheel... and all of that fun stuff.
Also... if this is for your kid... I would be careful. A 300whp MR2 is a FAST car that takes a lot of practice to be able to drive well. I would get him involved in some Auto-X or Road Racing events so he can learn how the car reacts. They are very unpredictable if you don't know what to expect.
Ok, so here is what I have done to this car. The engine, intercooler, turbo, ect are already installed in the car & done. I'm not doing any more to them, & my son has already spent 8 grand on parts, so he cant afford to spend much more. If I dont avhieve 400 HP, then so be it. Even if its 300, that will be plenty, & from what you are saying, if its going to cost another 2-3 grand to get to 400 - ain't happenin. So, I will have to make do with what I have & MAKE IT RUN RIGHT. Here is what I have:
Block: Stock, except .040 overbore with 1 1/2" head plate. ARP main & head studs. Line bored too.
Crank: Balanced, Knife edged, Journals polished, & Throws polished to reduce windage.
Pistons: Wiseco 85.5 mm Forged, with Cat forged rods, all balanced. ACL race bearings throughout.
Head: Full port & polish by me, 1mm oversized SI valves, larger springs, Aftermarket retainers, HKS 272 cams, new guides, thermostat gutted for max water flow with a small restriction.
Head Gasket: Cometic MLS
Intake Manifold: ported & polished by me as far as I could get up into the runners.
BOV: HKS
Wastegate: Tail with 10Lb spring installed. After 1000 miles or so, I will add a second, 8 LB spring for 18 LBS of boost total.
Turbo: Turbonetics T3/T4 with .63 AR/ 50 Trim, both water & oil cooled rebuilt by me.
Air Intake: Custom made by me with 2 1/2" pipe, & completly sealed from engine bay. Air is drawn from the right side vent behind the driver door.
I/C: Ebay Geddy replica custom installed by me & completly sealed from engine bay. Fan wired to run constantly, & draws air from the left side vent behind the passenger door.
Engine Cover: Custom made by me with a 16" high flow fan & possibly a 10" fan too, if I can get it to fit.
Fuel System: Walbro 255LPH pump, Fuel line goes to 3/8" about a foot before the filter, Fram 200 PSI racing filter, 400 PSI 3/8" hose that splits into both ends of the fuel rail, with a Paxton FPR spliced in, set at 43 PSI.
Fuel Rail: Modified by me with both ends drilled out & tapped for 1/8" pipe fittings, & 3/8" barbs installed to connect to the dual 3/8" fuel lines going to it. Cold start injector removed & hole plugged.
Electronics: Blitz Super Computer, Fet Turbo Timer, Greddy Pro-fec A boost controller, AEM wideband, and an Apexi S-afc not installed because I was unsure what it was for.
Clutch: Fidanza aluminum flywheel with a ceramic 6 disc clutch, SS clutch hose, new M/C.
Trans: Factory LSD 5 speed
Suspension: Completly replaced with all new parts, urathane bushings, 2's R US sway bar end links, Bilstein struts, Tein springs, KYB front mounts, All new brakes, calipers, rebuilt M/C, Earls SS lines.
I called Turbonectics & they told me this turbo was good for max 380 HP. Thats close enough for me. If I can get between 300 & 380HP with what I have, then I will be happy. What I most want is consistant, reliable performance. My son is not a street racer per say, or even a racer. He just wants a car that looks fast & is fast, but he already has over 14 grand in it, so I know he wont treat it like an old NOVA that I threw a 350 in! And, I WILL spend some time with him teaching him how to drive it.
( HEY MR2 BAD - Imaging what I could have done to that old vintage American iron for 14 Grand! LOL)
I already told my son that if he wants it to have more horsepower he will have to go to a bigger turbo & a programmable, stand alone ECU & thats another 3-5 grand.
I think the way I built the engine, it will put out around 600HP, but he will have to spend the 3-5 grand to get there. He dont have it, so it is what it is, & he will have to be happy with that. 300 HP in an MR2 is PLENTY, in my opinion, & I think when I get it running right its going to scare the crap out of him. I think he will be happy with it.
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Forum for every generation Toyota MR2. Including the AW11 and SW20.
Injector Question
Aint that the fricken truth!
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