If it's not one thing it's a fricken 'nother.
Since I found the source of the smoking and fixed it, the car has been running great. I crank it up today and there's tapping noise coming from the valve cover.
I thought immediately- lifter shims hitting cams.
This is what I found at the #4 cylinder exhaust side.
The shim is shattered into 2 pieces and some of the bucket edge is eaten away. I'm surprised theres no scoring on the cam lobe.
3 other valve clearances did not spec out either.
Here's the shim:
Hell, I just bought a set of new staggered rims 17x7 w/38 offset ff and 17x9 35 offset rr.
Now I wish I woulda held off. I was gonna do a built head with SS over size valves, dual springs , titanium retainers and 264 cams in the near future, but not this near. Especially with Christmas coming up.
Oh well, whats done is done.
I don't think so. Even with the broken shim, except for the tapping noise, it still ran good.
I will know more when I remove the cams and lifter. I was about to switch to shimless buckets.
I think for now I will just replace this bucket and shim. -As long as I don't find any other damage.
I have a spare head I bought years ago. I think I will start getting together the parts for the built head.
I don't know why Toyota(Yamaha) used shim over lifters in the 1st place. The 3rd gens use shim under buckets.
I removed the lifter. It was kinda lodged and wouldn't rotate freely. There was a little bit of scoring in the head lifter bore.
You can see where the cam ate away the lip of the lifter and the excessive wear on the sides of the lifter.
I guess I'll have to pull the head and either have that lifter bore honed or just replace the head( which is what I'm leaning towards)
I ran a compression test before I took it apart. All cylinders passed with flying colors(Thank God!). Valve/spring travel seems good.
Never heard of that before.
Whats the mileage on the MR2?
183K.. But rebuilt 13K miles ago.
As far as the head goes, I had the local machine shop do a valve grind, replace seals ,set valve clearance, resurfacecheck for cracks, pressure test and a bath. Expcet for the seals, all parts were reusable-they said.
I tried to call them today-and guess what? Those MOFO's are out of business. I have a feeling that we (I) should have replaced the whole valve train. Which is what I'm going to do.
I have used them a few times and they seem to be alright. All the local Honda guys use them.
I've already talked to my Mud racing friends, who are 4x4, big block boys, and they have recommended a shop to me. It's 50 miles south of me, but thats OK.
Well, right before Thanksgiving I hit a deer doing 60mph in my Tacoma 4x4. Fu*ked it up! I had it fixed, but, I had to cough up the balance of the rental car that my insurance didnt't cover and the deductable. Then came Christmas. All this eating up the disposable cash.
I finally got all my parts together and had the spare head rebuilt.
I had the head checked for cracks, leaks and warpage, by a very reputable shop.(the one I mentioned above)It all checked out good.
I had the head resurfaced, valve seat grind(they were in good shape) and these components installed : New MR2 Spyder Shimless lifters (5.46mm thickness)
Ferrea Stainless Steel Valves(stock diameter)
Brian Crower Springs and Titanium Retainers
New locks(OEM)
New Vitron Valve Seals
New Spring Seats(OEM)
I also have a Cometic HG (.040-stock thickness) and ARP studs,nuts and washers.
Unfortunately, I only have a covered carport and it's been fricken cold here (colder than normal). So, I'm hoping this coming Sunday and Monday, temps get above 40.
I hate working on the car in the cold. burrrrr !
you don't want the double springs. trust me on this. may help to use a Mobil 1 or K&N oil filter (micron level filtration!) and a magnetic drain plug when you do fire it up to try to capture any/all debris from that mess!
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1/2 a tank of V-Power gas+ 1/2 tankful of fuel with Techroline= V-Tec gas??? Speed and grip walk a very thin line of balance. If a car feels like it's on rails, then you're probably not going fast enough.
I considered the double springs. I was worried about them binding, so I stayed away.
Soungs like you may have had a bad experience with them?
It's a different head. All cleaned up and shiney!
I considered the double springs. I was worried about them binding, so I stayed away.
Soungs like you may have had a bad experience with them?
It's a different head. All cleaned up and shiney!
no a good friend and i had been discussing double and race springs on a street-driven build. he actually had a spring break, i've seen other engines (cyl head/cams) wiped.
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1/2 a tank of V-Power gas+ 1/2 tankful of fuel with Techroline= V-Tec gas??? Speed and grip walk a very thin line of balance. If a car feels like it's on rails, then you're probably not going fast enough.
Do you think they're just too stiff or did they bind?
both. they got bound-up, we 'released' them, then they broke.
springs like that are WAAAAAy too much for the street. now, for a race application where sustained rpms are normal, then they help to alleviate things like valve float.
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1/2 a tank of V-Power gas+ 1/2 tankful of fuel with Techroline= V-Tec gas??? Speed and grip walk a very thin line of balance. If a car feels like it's on rails, then you're probably not going fast enough.
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