New here! Need some assistance 91 Mr2t

[DavidR]

Hello everyone.
I'm about to replace my timing belt on my 91 turbo. Is there any belt that is longer lasting or better than stock.
I plan on stripping down most of the engine to replace old hoses and parts. Is there anything unusual one should consider doing during this type of project. Something like you wished you did but didn't know enough to consider.
The car has 130K miles. The belt was done last at 60K
Planning on a new water pump at least.
Anyone here wish to lend me those specialty tools needed for some rental fee?
Any place better than another for parts?
Thank you for reading this guys.
Any help would be most appreciated.
DavidR

[BDSL]

Stick with Toyota OEM parts.

Parts to replace:
- tensioner
- timing belt
- accessory belt (AC, Alternator)
- idlers
- cam seals
- crank seal
- valve cover gasket
- Hose from Hell and return line (from and to the turbo)
- water pump

Machine the exhaust manifold mating surfacing because it is known to warp.
And while you have the exhaust manifold off, get the turbocharger rebuilt.

This is off the top of my head....maybe there are more.

[MR2Jedi]

The only timing belt I know of that is suppose to be stronger is the HKS belt.But I don't know that they last any longer. It cost twice as much as the OEM belt.


This place has great prices for OEM Toyota parts. :
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0

If you end up resurfacing your exhaust manifold mating surface, keep in mind that the bolt hold for the turbocharger stay may not line up with the thread hole in the block-depending on how much has to be shaved. I had to modify the hole in the stay to realign it again.

[DavidR]

Originally Posted by BDSL

Stick with Toyota OEM parts.

Parts to replace:
- tensioner
- timing belt
- accessory belt (AC, Alternator)
- idlers
- cam seals
- crank seal
- valve cover gasket
- Hose from Hell and return line (from and to the turbo)
- water pump

Machine the exhaust manifold mating surfacing because it is known to warp.
And while you have the exhaust manifold off, get the turbocharger rebuilt.

This is off the top of my head....maybe there are more.

Thank you guys!
Yes, It would be wise to do a total knock down, including the clutch. I've had this car garaged for the past 16 years. It hasn't been driven in three and a half years. She needs some work to bring it up to peak performance. I always wanted to crank up the horse power a bit on this car without spending too much cash or drift too far from factory.
If I where to remove the exhaust should I consider a different down pipe? Not sure how obligated I'll be with a car this old needing to meet emissions. What do you guys do for inspections with any aftermarket exhaust mods.
Any ideas you guys have, that you would do on a virgin 91 turbo, to kick it up a knotch?

Thank you for time and directing me to a part supplier.
DR.

[BDSL]

http://www.mrcontrols.com/primers/power.htm

[MR2Jedi]

The MR2PowerPrimer that BDSL (also in the stickie on MR2 Main page) provided is a pretty good and inexpensive way to get the max out of the engine(about 270-280hp) while staying very close to stock.
If your engine is in good, reliable shape, turning up the boost is a great, easy mod. You will definately feel and appreciate uping the boost to 15-16 psi.
You will have to disable the fuel cut that engages at 12 psi. Your average MR2 turbo probably only runs about 10 psi.

[MR2Jedi]

Originally Posted by DavidR

Thank you guys!
Yes, It would be wise to do a total knock down, including the clutch. I've had this car garaged for the past 16 years. It hasn't been driven in three and a half years. She needs some work to bring it up to peak performance. I always wanted to crank up the horse power a bit on this car without spending too much cash or drift too far from factory.
If I where to remove the exhaust should I consider a different down pipe? Not sure how obligated I'll be with a car this old needing to meet emissions. What do you guys do for inspections with any aftermarket exhaust mods.
Any ideas you guys have, that you would do on a virgin 91 turbo, to kick it up a knotch?

Thank you for time and directing me to a part supplier.
DR.

We don't have emissions tests here. But if you remove the stock downpipe, you will lose your primary cat. The secondary will not be enough to pass emissions.
If you do go with a aftermarket down pipe, you will need to go with a whole new exhaust system that will allow for an aftermarket catalyctic converter.
The Down pipe is a good mod allowing for a faster spool.

[DavidR]

Does the Power Primer require a computerized interface? If so, I'm not that ambitious, as I'm limited with that technology, especially with this type project. I would like simple proven bolt-ons. Unless someone could help me do it that has a strong interest with knowledge in this department.
As far as the down pipe goes! If it's going to cause me any brief to inspect, then I'm not interested. I did put the TRD upgrade exhaust many years ago. I like it a lot. There's a very very deep rumble at deceleration in gear, (outside the car) and not too annoying to drive. Seems to work well with the stock cat.
D.

[MR2Jedi]

Originally Posted by DavidR

Does the Power Primer require a computerized interface? If so, I'm not that ambitious, as I'm limited with that technology, especially with this type project.

Only to tune the fuel leaner.
Where I live, they charge $100.00 for 3 runs on the dyno. And another $60.00 to tune fuel.

I would like simple proven bolt-ons. Unless someone could help me do it that has a strong interest with knowledge in this department.

Like you, I wanted stay close to stock . I would suggest the ATS CT27 turbo. It's a direct bolt on and you can still use your stock fuel system to 17psi.Down the road, if you decide you want more power, with supporting mods, you can hit 300rwhp with this turbo.

As far as the down pipe goes! If it's going to cause me any brief to inspect, then I'm not interested. I did put the TRD upgrade exhaust many years ago. I like it a lot. There's a very very deep rumble at deceleration in gear, (outside the car) and not too annoying to drive. Seems to work well with the stock cat

I take it , you're talking a TRD catback exhaust..if there's room to fit a catylictic converter between the down pipe and your TRD exhaust, then go for it. Otherwise, you'll have to retain the stock downpipe.
Like I said before, if you use an after market down pipe, you won't have a cat anymore and will not pass inspection.

My suggestion for not breaking the bank and getting about 260rwhp is:
ATS CT27 Turbo
After market intecooler and fan
Either a manual boost controller and a boost gauge or-
Electronic boost controller.( they do have a digital boost gauge to monitor boost, but I still prefer to have a seperate boost gauge too)
ATS 170 degree thermostat

[DavidR]

Thank you much, very good info Sir! What would that turbo cost. I have a $4K budget to do the timing belt, new steering rack, brake rebuild and new struts. Won't leave me much more than 2K after all that. Don't you agree?
I did remove the hood, the side trims and the trunk tonight. Also removed much of the over head plumbing. I snapped one bolt on the heat shield and found the little (I think it's the VSV check valve) attached to the blow off valve has a line connection snapped off. Sure to find a few other things along the way.
D.

[MR2Jedi]

The ATS turbo is $1,100.00 - the $300.00 refundable core charge.-or just $800.00 if you send your corein advance (in good shape) . Which is what I did.
But unfortunately, the bearings were pretty bad and one of the compressor blades had a chip. (I already knew these things and really expected to pay more). so I ended up coughing up another $100.00 for the core. So I paid a total of $900.00.
They take the stock turbo with an upgraded compressor wheel- a TO4E and they port the turbine side to flow the extra boost. So this thing fits exactly as the stock tubo does.
These guys are in Texas and specialize in the 2nd gen MR2. I have purchased several items from them, they are great to deal with and their prices are very reasonable.
Here's a link:

http://atsracing.net/CT27.htm


You can get a bigger side mount intercooler and piping that bolts right in for less than $200.00 from these guys:

http://www.cxracing.com/

I highly recommend an upgraded intercooler to cool the higher intake charge temps. You can find a 9" fan for it on Ebay for less than $30.00



TWO'S R US sell a good manual boost controller. If you use one of these, you will need to install a boost gauge to set and monitor the boost pressure.

I'm using a Greddy Profec II electronic boost controller( $300.00)
You can set the boost from inside the cabin, unlike the manual where you have to pop the hood and adjust it manually.

So you're looking at about $1,500.00, depending on the condition of your turbo core.
With your new brakes and struts, it will be a kick to drive.

[DavidR]

Very good! Great links and advice. This is exactly what I'm going to do.
Does the boost controller have to be manually adjusted? Can't it be set and leave it?
Must be a good reason for the need to adjust it.
Thanks D.

[MR2Jedi]

Originally Posted by DavidR

Does the boost controller have to be manually adjusted? Can't it be set and leave it?
Must be a good reason for the need to adjust it.
Thanks D.

It just needs to be adjusted to the desired/proper/safe boost level when you 1st install it. After that you can pretty much leavi it alone. You will need a boost gauge to see what the boost level is and watch for boost spikes.

[DavidR]

Question guys?
Does the engine rebuild gasket set include all coolant line connector gaskets, exhaust gaskets and throttle body gaskets. Oh and turbo gaskets as well?
Thanks!
D.

[ToyotaTechGeek]

is it a Toyota kit? i've never heard of such, but it thought i would ask anyway.