3SGTE removal. It's been like opening Pandora's box!
After many hours and days, discoveries and surprises, she's finally out of the box!
Now I can comfortably work on the engine with the confidence and ease to do things right. Trying to do anything right in that engine bay would have left too many unanswered questions concerning all other related parts electrically or mechanically.
Hard work, but feel better now!
Here's a couple of photos I have questions and surprises to show.
You can see oil seepage on the intake side of the engine. You think head gasket?
I found that leaky coolant hose a recent poster was asking about. Mine leaks as well! Going to replace all hoses throughout with silicone, if possible.
Last photo shows exhaust leakage from the manifold. Look what was in the way? How long was that there. Factory or did the head have some work performed within the first three years of the cars existence. If so or not, I must now remove the head and make sure all is fine before I proceed.
Thank you for looking guys! Gonna need your help for sure in the near future.
Enjoy!
D.
hmmm, looks like a blast! yeah, hard to tell without seeing certain views.
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1/2 a tank of V-Power gas+ 1/2 tankful of fuel with Techroline= V-Tec gas??? Speed and grip walk a very thin line of balance. If a car feels like it's on rails, then you're probably not going fast enough.
Did you pull the tranny out before pulling the engine from the top? Just curious.
Yes, Tranny first.
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hard to say from the pic. But I would guess somewhere from the from timing cover. Maybe Cam seal(s).
Good call. At a closer look it appears to be coming from one of the head oil drain ports. I'm removing the head anyway to make sure all is in order. I'll let you know what it is.
Are you talking about the hose thats under the exhaust manifold connected to the oil cooler?If so, thats the HFH = hose from hell
That's the HFH!!! I can see now, why it's called that!
I would check the manifold for warping. there's a good chance it is after that.
Absolutely agree!
Was this engine running?
It was running. Always started for the occasional move, in and out of the garage.
if i remember correctly, my best friend and i changed the HFH on his ST165 Alltrac and replaced it with some Aeroquip hose and then insulated it with some heat barrier tube.
please make sure you have a tube of Toyota FIPG handy when you are in reassembly mode! make a list (and check it twice!) of parts you'll need. are you going to use a metal headgasket? are you going to use headstuds? will you be pulling freeze plugs and replacing them? i'm wondering about the level at which you're committing yourself with this build.
damn, i am in the middle of a build-up, but thinking about this is making me want to hurry up and build-up the engine block i have sitting on the stand! damn it!
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1/2 a tank of V-Power gas+ 1/2 tankful of fuel with Techroline= V-Tec gas??? Speed and grip walk a very thin line of balance. If a car feels like it's on rails, then you're probably not going fast enough.
Toyota FIPG. Sealant?
Don't know about a metal HG, but a new HG at least. Is it far superior?
No freeze plugs and I hope no new pistons and rods! Really hoping the lower end is in good shape.
I'm in way deeper than I wanted to be and probably won't see the end until late summer.
That parts list is out of control!!!!!!!
Toyota FIPG. Sealant?
Don't know about a metal HG, but a new HG at least. Is it far superior?
No freeze plugs and I hope no new pistons and rods! Really hoping the lower end is in good shape.
I'm in way deeper than I wanted to be and probably won't see the end until late summer.
That parts list is out of control!!!!!!!
yeah, FIPG is the Toyota stuff. i swear by it and i have instances where i can say it is far superior to anything else out there. (some people like honduh bond, but i can't use anything honduh on my Toyotas! )
metal headgasket is just extra insurance in my opinion. mine cost the same or actually less than a regular Toyota headgasket (the metal HG was TRD). with the metal headgasket, you will want to tell your machine shop to use a tight RA finish. hopefully the bottom end is good, but you'll want to replace the rear main seal, and you may want to address the oil pickup o ring (and you will want to 'lube' that o ring with some FIPG...trust me).
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1/2 a tank of V-Power gas+ 1/2 tankful of fuel with Techroline= V-Tec gas??? Speed and grip walk a very thin line of balance. If a car feels like it's on rails, then you're probably not going fast enough.
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1/2 a tank of V-Power gas+ 1/2 tankful of fuel with Techroline= V-Tec gas??? Speed and grip walk a very thin line of balance. If a car feels like it's on rails, then you're probably not going fast enough.
you should do a little walk through of how you took that engine out through the top, very cool that I see you have done it. Generally you drop the whole subframe and either use a lift or jack the car a ridiculous height. But I dont poke much in the Mr2 forums so sorry If I give a noob impression.
^ Thats why I asked if he removed the tranny 1st. If the trans is still in place, the clutch will not clear the tranny pulling the engine from the top. You can remove just the engine coming thru the bottom.(which is what I did.)
how is access to all the tranny bolts? anything like the transverse style? I bet you have more access around the bellhousing with the way the firewall is positioned considering the placement of the turbo. Thats quite a job separating the transmission, supporting the engine, THEN removing it.
MR2Jedi, how did you get the car high enough, I am assuming you did this at home? You use a lift or you figure out your own way?
how is access to all the tranny bolts? anything like the transverse style? bet you have more access around the bellhousing with the way the firewall is positioned considering the placement of the turbo. Thats quite a job separating the transmission, supporting the engine, THEN removing it.
The tranny bolts aren't very hard to get to at all. Having an aftermarket Downpipe gives you more access/room too. And yes, you need to support the engine as 2 of it's mounts are shared with the trans.
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MR2Jedi, how did you get the car high enough, I am assuming you did this at home? You use a lift or you figure out your own way?
If you remove the head and the oil pan, it lowers the height of the engine considerably. I had a blown HG, so the head was already off.
I used a transmission jack to install the assembled block by itself. Oil pump, water pump,timing belt, both idler pulley's, lower timer cover all attached. Then after the engine was bolted to the trans, I attached the manifolds, turbo, blah, blah, etc.
I did this all by myself in my covered carport .Though there were a couple times I wish I had help.
I had the car on jackstands with the rear cross member 18" off the ground. I would never feel safe or comfortable raising the car high enough to pull the whole rear subframe in 1 piece.
If you're gonna pull the just engine from the top with a hoist, you absolutely must remove the trans 1st from the bottom. You can pull the engine and tranny in one piece thru the top.
how is access to all the tranny bolts? anything like the transverse style? I bet you have more access around the bellhousing with the way the firewall is positioned considering the placement of the turbo. Thats quite a job separating the transmission, supporting the engine, THEN removing it.
MR2Jedi, how did you get the car high enough, I am assuming you did this at home? You use a lift or you figure out your own way?
Of all the parts to remove the tranny was a breeze, once the turbo and ex manifold was off. That was hell! If I has a two arm lift, I think one could get the tranny and engine, (assembled) thru the top.
A good controlled tilt with tranny in first and left sus. control arm removed might do it!
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