Rebuilding my 4A-GE from my AW15 currently and wondering if anyone has any experience with the TRD Head Gaskets for these engines. Good, bad, so-so? I don't want to waste my money but if it's a good solid gasket I can get a brand new one for half the price of an OEM one so I might as well run it if it's a good gasket. So anyone who has had one in a 4A-GE let me know what you thought! Thanks.
(I couldn't find the general engine forum so I figured the engine was from an MR2 so here would be semi-appropriate. Please move it if I've misplaced the topic.)
Rebuilding my 4A-GE from my AW15 currently and wondering if anyone has any experience with the TRD Head Gaskets for these engines. Good, bad, so-so? I don't want to waste my money but if it's a good solid gasket I can get a brand new one for half the price of an OEM one so I might as well run it if it's a good gasket. So anyone who has had one in a 4A-GE let me know what you thought! Thanks.
(I couldn't find the general engine forum so I figured the engine was from an MR2 so here would be semi-appropriate. Please move it if I've misplaced the topic.)
Welcome. What type of 4AGE do you have and what thickness TRD gasket are you looking at? They are good gaskets but you need to consider what they will do to change your compression ratio.
BTW, you have an AW11. Despite the VIN, the chassis is referred to as AW11.
As far as I know it's a OEM thickness gasket it's just made by TRD so it shouldn't change my compression ratio much if at all. I suppose if it ups the ratio and I hear pinging when I accelerate from stop lights I'll just start buying the next level octane at the pump. As for the 4A-GE type it's just a standard one from an 89 AW15, no modifications other than lack of a cat and muffler. I guess technically it's a 4A-GEC since it's a California emissions car but as far as I know the internals are all the same it's all the emission vacuum lines and what-not that are different.
I suppose the common name is the AW11, but the 89 MR2 has a different transmission than the 85 and a little more power, and my pink slip says AW15, so I'll stick to that. Sorry if it offends anyone.
As far as I know it's a OEM thickness gasket it's just made by TRD so it shouldn't change my compression ratio much if at all. I suppose if it ups the ratio and I hear pinging when I accelerate from stop lights I'll just start buying the next level octane at the pump.
Most TRD 3 layer gaskets are 0.8mm but they come in different sizes. If you are currently running 87 octane, then don't worry -- you can just run 89 or 91 like you mentioned.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElliotTRD
I suppose the common name is the AW11, but the 89 MR2 has a different transmission than the 85 and a little more power, and my pink slip says AW15, so I'll stick to that. Sorry if it offends anyone.
It's not an offending thing, it's an accuracy thing. And a "I want people to understand me" thing. You can stick with whatever you want but here's how Toyota does it:
AW11 is the chassis code. AW15 in the VIN just means you have a naturally aspirated engine. AW16 in the VIN means you were supercharged from the factory.
Naturally aspirated MR2s from 1985-1989 have AW15 in the VIN.
when you machine the head, ask for a 'tight RA'. you will want to use ARP head studs, but it isn't necessary. you'll want them, though. if you have your engine out, then you might also consider decking the block for super-straight surfaces.
i haven't ever seen a 1.1mm headgasket by TRD, it's usually a little bit thinner, but then again, i've never looked for a stock sized metal head gasket. otherwise, some say it's overkill for a stock build, i say i enjoy the little extra insurance.
if you experience some detonation, you could also look at going 1 step colder with your spark plugs.
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1/2 a tank of V-Power gas+ 1/2 tankful of fuel with Techroline= V-Tec gas??? Speed and grip walk a very thin line of balance. If a car feels like it's on rails, then you're probably not going fast enough.
when you machine the head, ask for a 'tight RA'. you will want to use ARP head studs, but it isn't necessary. you'll want them, though. if you have your engine out, then you might also consider decking the block for super-straight surfaces.
i haven't ever seen a 1.1mm headgasket by TRD, it's usually a little bit thinner, but then again, i've never looked for a stock sized metal head gasket. otherwise, some say it's overkill for a stock build, i say i enjoy the little extra insurance.
if you experience some detonation, you could also look at going 1 step colder with your spark plugs.
The engine isn't being machined except for a quick bore hone. I guess I shouldn't have said rebuilding I should have said inspecting and replacing. The engine needs a water pump, starter, belts, and oil sending unit so I figured I'd replace all the gaskets while I had the engine out. I'm just curious if these head gaskets were reliable, last thing I want to do is spend the money and install it only to blow it cruising down the freeway to school a week later.
If you're gonna pull the engine out you should definately have the block decked.
Cometic makes HG's in several different thickness's. I'm using the stock thickness of .040" (1.016mm).
I don't know how they compare in price to TRD. I got a package deal with the Cometic HG and ARP head studs, nuts and washers for $180.00US
If you're gonna pull the engine out you should definately have the block decked.
Cometic makes HG's in several different thickness's. I'm using the stock thickness of .040" (1.016mm).
I don't know how they compare in price to TRD. I got a package deal with the Cometic HG and ARP head studs, nuts and washers for $180.00US
Block is already out and everything is within specification, no point in decking anything that's just a waste of time and metal. The TRD headgasket I found was about $60 after shipping, the OEM one from the dealership is $90 with my wholesale discount.
Block is already out and everything is within specification, no point in decking anything that's just a waste of time and metal. The TRD headgasket I found was about $60 after shipping, the OEM one from the dealership is $90 with my wholesale discount.
The TRD headgasket is metal so it required a lower RA (smoothness) number. Probably around 30 RA. If you are replacing a conventional gasket with a MLS (multi-layer steel), you probably have a higher RA.
What thickness TRD gasket are you planning on buying?
It appears to be a .8 that I can get for a pretty low price, haven't decided for sure if I want to get it or not, I'll have to do some investigating into the OEM from the store down the street and the OEM from the dealership before I make a final decission.
I have heard this conversation many many times on various Forums reguarding the 4A series engine. I have also observed great success with Toyota OEM gaskets.
I have also heard not so pleasent experiences with other "aftermarket" head gaskets.
I respectively suggest that if your looking for a dependable, reliable installation with no "after" effects use that OEM supplied Gasket by your dealer.
By using that alternate gasket you just might be doing this whole job again, and that something to consider now, not later.
Toyota does NOT recommend using your old head bolts again.
Good luck with your choice.
BTW there are "discounting" Toyota dealerships out there, so shop accordingly.
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