Rear Brake Issue

[SuperchargedMR2]

I've been having some issues with the rear brakes on my 89 SC. They seemed to be tight & not releasing completely. I noticed brake dust & I never had that issue before. I replaced the pads & I even had the rotors turned but the drag is still there. Do the callpers need to be replaced or rebuilt? How would I know? I've never had to replace the calipers before on any car. I've replaced pads many time with no issues. I'm going nuts trying to figure this out. I'm wondering if it would just be easiest to order both rear remanufactured calipers & replace them. Any help would be welcomed.

[SuperchargedMR2]

No suggestions?

[BDSL]

Can be a few things:
Hand brake cable seized
Caliper piston seized
Caliper slide pin not lubricated

[ToyotaTechGeek]

Originally Posted by BDSL

Can be a few things:
Caliper piston seized
Caliper slide pin not lubricated

+1

brake dust is 'normal' even with 'dust-free' pads. if you have a crazy amount, could be due to the caliper 'hanging-up'. then again if it is dragging that much, your rotor(s) should probably been warped.

[SuperchargedMR2]

Originally Posted by ToyotaTechGeek

+1

brake dust is 'normal' even with 'dust-free' pads. if you have a crazy amount, could be due to the caliper 'hanging-up'. then again if it is dragging that much, your rotor(s) should probably been warped.

I just had my rotors turned to make sure that wasn't the issue. I'm off tomorrow so I'm going to try & lube all parts that need it & check the operation after that. I'm using stock Toyota pads & I've never had brake dust issues with it. If this doesn't work I make just install a pair of rebuilt calipers.

[mr2tim]

I've encoutered this issue on several of my Mark 1 cars.

Most times it just "hangs up" as Geek indicated at the hand brake lever on the caliper itself. "Blaster" applied every day for 3-4days in a row helped as well as pulling the lever out all the way while pentrating oil was applied.

As BDSL indicated when I drove my car from my home in extreme South Florida to Detroit the freakin' cable froze due to slight water in the emer brake cable sheathing.

Confirming that your emer brake cable has the proper adjustment underneath the car at the "Y" would be the 1st item to check. (belly pan shroud removal required)

BTW there are cheap rebuilding kits rather than just throwing new parts at the problem? The hard parts don't degrade only the rubber components. If your calipers haven't been overhauled since 1988 your way overdue.

To oil the cable tape a baggy fiull of oil to the end of the cable and elevate till oil appears at the other end.

You can do this basic work, just takes time.