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Old 01-07-2011, 04:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3.0 swap

hey guys, its been a couple months since i posted.the last time i posted i was trying to build a N/A 5sfe monster but have done calculations and figured for the money and time put into it that it wont be worth it, and the amount of power to the money i would have to dump into it well it would all be a total waste since i would only get about 180hp out of it.so i had decided to do a 3vzfe(3.0 v6 engine that only came to the usa from 92-93 camry v6 and es300) swap into my 92 mr2.today i got a running one delivered to my house all for 270, it has a blown head gasket but i was planning on getting those changed out anyway since its a common problem but once replaced i havn't heard of them going out again and the engine goes on forever.
anyways as i get more into the project i will try to get detailed pictures of everything and describe everything as best as i can.if i haven't posted anything in a while write me something as i tend to forget things easily.
also if anyone has any tips on getting more hp out of this 3.0 besides a s/c let me know.some people say cams dont do much for it but i want to hear every bodies opinions on how to get more hp out of it.
thanks a bunch in advance for all good and relevant info
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Old 01-07-2011, 08:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Cams , with supporting mods, are always a good mod. Higher lift, longer duration= more air and fuel, hence more power.
Looking forward to the progress on your build.
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Old 01-07-2011, 09:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR2Jedi View Post
Cams , with supporting mods, are always a good mod. Higher lift, longer duration= more air and fuel, hence more power.
Looking forward to the progress on your build.
so for the supporting mods would some bigger injectors(supra injectors/green top?) and more lph fuel pump be enough?or is more needed to support the cams?
im going to try to make the flowmaster exhaust that was on the car work with the 3vzfe y pipe and i will be making use of the cold air intake that was on the 5s
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Old 01-07-2011, 10:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yes, more fuel via larger injectors and higher capacity fuel pump. FPR and someway to control injector duty.
I'm not real familiar with the V6 you speak of, but you will probably also need adjustable cam gears to degree the cams.
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Old 01-16-2011, 12:55 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The cams are driven by a scissor gear, so adjustment isn't possible.

Don't move to higher flow injectors until yours are maxed at 80% duty cycle. The 3VZ uses air assisted 240cc injectors, but thankfully the CA-spec Supra 2JZ also used air assisted 310cc injectors from 1994-1996.

If you have your cams reground, you'll need to find a way to put the valve clearance back into spec. Toyota only offers shims that are so big, so you'd need to tell the shop that does your cams the limits of adjustment. And cams do wonders for the V6s. The stock cam profiles are quite conservative.

We've had a discussion on this over at MR2OC.com: http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=407071

It deals mainly with the 1MZ, but many of the things we discussed also apply to the 3VZ.
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Old 01-16-2011, 08:36 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Forged internals, Stand-alone ecu system, twin or quad turbo. That will be enough to satisfy any power requirements
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Old 01-18-2011, 09:33 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Forged internals, Stand-alone ecu system, twin or quad turbo. That will be enough to satisfy any power requirements
I'd really like to know where you'd fit 4 turbos and how it'd be beneficial over a single turbo system.

The 3VZ's rods are bigger than Eagle 22R rods, stock. It's the pistons and head gaskets that need addressing for forced induction, but the motor seems to handle boost fine stock. It's all in the tuning until you get to the limits of the pistons and stock head bolts.
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Old 01-21-2011, 12:32 AM   #8 (permalink)
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thanks for the good info guys, i really appreciate it.so far nothing has really changed.engine is in my carport and it gets cold out here in the sticks so i have a hard time going out to work on the engine.it seems like the guy before me attempted to remove a valve cover, and then got lazy, as the bolts were loose.i still need to buy a y pipe,flywheel,ecu, and engine harness i have a y pipe and and engine harness lined up for 100 for the both of them but im waiting on some cash, which isnt easy being unemployed.i do have a potential side job that i might do and get enough cash to get more than half the project done but who knows if that will work out.so i will still need to get a digital camera as well and i dont really want to start to deep into the project with out it since i want to get every single step of the project photographed so the next guy will have it easier.the other guys that did the swap wrote up some great info and had some great pics but i just want to get more detail on that engine mount for other people.i cant find a good picture or diagram that shows/says how it should be best done so i will also be sure and get that done.that one guy from australia who did the swap had some really good info i just dont remember his name, best write up on the swap so far that i could find.i read it months ago though.anyways thanks again for the good info guys.oh and also i want to keep it n/a but if i cant make 270hp then i will have to go with a s/c.any thoughts?
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:43 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Clean the engine, swap the gaskets. bolt the engine up, and get it running correctly. baby steps, take your time man. 185hp stock, advance the timing to 12* you can get 200, custom y-pipe about 10 more. Port and polished heads can net you up to 30hp, but 20 is more a real world figure. supercharger can get you up to 275 and maybe 300 if you do the fueling and tuning correctly, which means getting two afr's, megasquirt or other ems. Im not experienced with cams but they can make you some easy power, but read above about the valve shims.

I'm looking into this as well, do you have a link to some write-ups? I would like to see them.
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Old 01-24-2011, 07:28 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Well, the V6s power delivery is quite different, so I'm not sure why you're targeting some arbitrary number like 270hp. The off-idle torque they produce is just ridiculous. I rarely need to downshift even with my longer gearset, but I WANT to downshift because the sound it makes is quite nice. I rev-match downshift, and it just pops and gurgles with a very baritone note. Sounds more unique and gives the car more character, IMO.

The ACIS switchover at 3700rpm makes the engine change pitch as well. It's pretty neat to hear the shorter runners take over. It gives the V6s a dual personality. The TRD supercharger removes that, but instead you get an intoxicating whine.



Stock 3VZ in a MKII; flywheel numbers; 173 wheel hp, which is on par with the 1MZ. It's not mine, obviously.

And a TRD S/C'd 1MZ at 6psi and 9psi:


Now, just look at the torque curves.
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Old 01-24-2011, 10:01 AM   #11 (permalink)
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all that work for only that HP. I mean i know the torque is a nice thing to have in these small cars. But seems like alot of fab and install work for HP numbers that could get pulled out of a 3s with bolt on mods. just my opinion.

But it is a cool project non-the-less. Props on thinking outside the box.
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Old 01-24-2011, 09:48 PM   #12 (permalink)
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A turbo engine with a number of bolt-on modifications is about as reliable as a watercooled volkswagen


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all that work for only that HP. I mean i know the torque is a nice thing to have in these small cars. But seems like alot of fab and install work for HP numbers that could get pulled out of a 3s with bolt on mods. just my opinion.

But it is a cool project non-the-less. Props on thinking outside the box.
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Old 01-24-2011, 10:21 PM   #13 (permalink)
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A turbo engine with a number of bolt-on modifications is about as reliable as a watercooled volkswagen
That is so untrue. The 3sgte is still very reliable and durable at 300+ hp.
What gen and model MR2 do/have you owned?
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Old 01-25-2011, 04:12 PM   #14 (permalink)
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yea that is a pretty ignorant statement.
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Old 01-25-2011, 06:48 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TheEngineer View Post
all that work for only that HP. I mean i know the torque is a nice thing to have in these small cars. But seems like alot of fab and install work for HP numbers that could get pulled out of a 3s with bolt on mods. just my opinion.

But it is a cool project non-the-less. Props on thinking outside the box.
Well the V6s only need a passenger side motor mount, so there isn't much fab work. 3/4 motor mounts are on the transmission.

The 3SGTE is good, but it doesn't provide the response and curves the V6s do. The more and more power you try to extract from the 3SGTE, the laggier and laggier it gets as you move to larger and larger turbos. Modded 3SGTEs would wipe my 1MZ MR2 up (after they catch up ), but it was never about peak power for me. The problem with the 3SGTE isn't the motor, but rather its owners wanting more and more out of it. That's when it gets unreliable and why many MR2Ts are weekend cars or are down for a bit as they fix issues.

No one wants to play with the V6s, but they're a good base to work from. The stock cams are conservative, so there's plenty more in the engine. I'm looking out for some 2MZ cams to get that extra 2mm of intake lift, and also 3MZ exhaust cams for some extra duration and another 1mm of lift.

The V6s are a better choice than the BEAMS 3SGE. My personal opinion, of course.

And the V6 exhaust note is much sexier, IMO, though the vrroom pshh sound has some appeal.
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