Hi all- coming over from another forum to search for more help- thanks for any advice/etc!
Short version: I had some serious lag/bogging issues, replaced O2 sensor and plugs, now the bog seems to be gone...but it runs just like a go-cart. PutPutPut noise, backfire on shift, and weak power (although I drove home 55-60 fine). Power is consistant, at least- just weak and put-putty, lol. There is a definite smell of gas, too- strong!
At one point, I accidentaly touched the plug wire-end to the block while running, zapped myself..could this have fried something in the car as well? (I survived :P) Will check the fuses I can find- how many locations are there?
Any other ideas on issue/fix? Thanks!
(currently waiting on new wires to be shipped in)
***
Long version: my MR2 was bought with some hesitation/lagging when pressing hard on the gas- fixed this initially with a new O2 sensor, was 90% fine though still a bit underpowered. 6 months later, it again really started to bog badly on accel, seriously making it tough to get up to speed- but once on the highway, she'd run smooth and easy. I noticed the gas milage was terrible, and it was getting rough to drive, so I brought her to a local shop for a diagnosis and estimate. They basically said "no idea, but how about a tune-up for $$$?" I said no thanks, way too costly, and went do that myself- and found they hadn't even plugged back in my spark wires, they were just dangling in the sockets. The car also smells very strongly of gas now. I don't even know what to do about that still... Either way, I replaced the plugs for a start, and a new O2 sensor as well- and now it idles at a solid 750rpm, though rythmic, but runs exactly like a go-cart. Backfires a lot too.
The plugs were Autolite Irridium, should be good, and I've done this work before, was very careful...any ideas what might be causing this? My geuss is the wires, as we were pulling them out one by one to test (while running) for a faulty cylinder, and may have been a bit rough on 'em. I say this because, on the last test, I actually managed to tear a wire straight out...DOH! So, obviously it does not run anymore :P
I have ordered new wires, we'll see how that goes- any other ideas though? Thoughts what I should do with this idiot mechanic? I'm not a confrontational person...but seriously, I'm starting to wonder if they caused these issues (it all started a few days after an oil change done there...)
It is a 1991 non-turbo. Nothing special done to it, other than a K&N air filter by previous owner, along with AC and cruise control components missing...heck, it's a "first MR2", and I'd been waiting a long time for one.
I would do a full ignitiion tune up including cap, rotor,and check ignition timing.
You mentioned a K&N filter? Check the AFM connector and make sure its plugged in, not loose.
How many miles on it?
As far as the mechanic, I have my doubts about him and I would find another one.
Post pics of your 2 in the MR2 pics in the blue sticky on the MR2 main page when you get time.
There is a connector plugged in near the end of the air intake, which I assume is the AFM?
At least 170,XXX miles. So, she's seen some time...and the speedo/odometer are non-functioning, so who knows the real milage.
Definitely not testing my luck with that mechanic again, unfortunately. He seemed a great guy, and was recommended well.
It's cold here in Chicago (and have you seen the size of the blizzard about to hit us? wow.), and no garage...so it's hard to do a lot of work myself, though I may have access to a friends garage this Saturday. If I can coax Mr.Two into making it that far, with those new plug wires. Cap and rotor were changed...about 6 months ago, though by a different mechanic. Cheap enough I may just re-do it myself, for peace of mind. I also replaced the ignition coil, as it used to (still occasionally does) refuse to start for 5 minutes after being turned off. Never seemed to overheat, and would always restart fine...after 5 min.
Anyway, I'll start with those wires, and maybe move on to the fuel filter + cap and rotor. Cap and rotor might be a bit tricky for me, but I can find a good write-up I'm sure. Timing I KNOW will be tough- I can't find an answer, do I need to remove that cover on the right, to see the belt and marks?
There is a connector plugged in near the end of the air intake, which I assume is the AFM?
Correct
Quote:
At least 170,XXX miles. So, she's seen some time...and the speedo/odometer are non-functioning, so who knows the real milage.
Definitely not testing my luck with that mechanic again, unfortunately. He seemed a great guy, and was recommended well.
With that many miles, I would run a compression check. it will tell you much about the condition of the engine.
Quote:
Cap and rotor were changed...about 6 months ago, though by a different mechanic. Cheap enough I may just re-do it myself, for peace of mind. I also replaced the ignition coil, as it used to (still occasionally does) refuse to start for 5 minutes after being turned off. Never seemed to overheat, and would always restart fine...after 5 min.
Anyway, I'll start with those wires, and maybe move on to the fuel filter + cap and rotor. Cap and rotor might be a bit tricky for me, but I can find a good write-up I'm sure.
If you have already replaced the cap and rotor, I wouldn't bother with another one.
Quote:
Timing I KNOW will be tough- I can't find an answer, do I need to remove that cover on the right, to see the belt and marks?
Thanks much!
Check ignition timing with a timing light... it should be 10 degrees BTDC with T1 and E1 in the diagnostic port crossed connected with a paper clip.
There's alot things that could create the problem you describe. A clogged fuel filter wouldn't create a rich condition.
Unless the mechanic removed a sparkplug, I don't know why he would've removed a plug wire. Maybe it was already loose.
Check your battery. Make sure post and connectors are clean and tight. If you have a multitester, check the voltage , with both engine on and off.
There is a connector plugged in near the end of the air intake, which I assume is the AFM?
Correct
Quote:
At least 170,XXX miles. So, she's seen some time...and the speedo/odometer are non-functioning, so who knows the real milage.
Definitely not testing my luck with that mechanic again, unfortunately. He seemed a great guy, and was recommended well.
With that many miles, I would run a compression check. it will tell you much about the condition of the engine.
Quote:
Cap and rotor were changed...about 6 months ago, though by a different mechanic. Cheap enough I may just re-do it myself, for peace of mind. I also replaced the ignition coil, as it used to (still occasionally does) refuse to start for 5 minutes after being turned off. Never seemed to overheat, and would always restart fine...after 5 min.
Anyway, I'll start with those wires, and maybe move on to the fuel filter + cap and rotor. Cap and rotor might be a bit tricky for me, but I can find a good write-up I'm sure.
If you have already replaced the cap and rotor, I wouldn't bother with another one.
Quote:
Timing I KNOW will be tough- I can't find an answer, do I need to remove that cover on the right, to see the belt and marks?
Thanks much!
Check ignition timing with a timing light... it should be 10 degrees BTDC with T1 and E1 in the diagnostic port crossed connected with a paper clip.
There's alot things that could create the problem you describe. A clogged fuel filter wouldn't create a rich condition.
Unless the mechanic removed a sparkplug, I don't know why he would've removed a plug wire. Maybe it was already loose.
Check your battery. makes sure posts and connectors and clean and tight. If you have a multitester, check the voltage with the engine both on and off.
**Edit- right right, I'll check that battery, although I don't have a multitester. She's never had trouble "electrically" starting- those other times I mentioned, the engine cranks great, but just wouldn't even cough, then 5min later starts up perfect...**
Mechanic claimed to have run a compression and injector test, said they were both fine. Not inclined to believe that, though, or at least that it was done well/correctly. I'll get it done ASAP.
Ok, I'll leave the cap/rotor alone. And the fuel filter.
The plugs were definitely not loose until after I got the car back- it also never smelled of gasoline, till now, which is worrying.
I have timing light, and understand how to check it- problems is, I just am not sure where to look for the belt itself, and the marks. This must seem silly obvious to anyone else...but I've been unable to figure out just where to look.
**Edit- right right, I'll check that battery, although I don't have a multitester. She's never had trouble "electrically" starting- those other times I mentioned, the engine cranks great, but just wouldn't even cough, then 5min later starts up perfect...**
OK, you said it wouldn't start, I didn't realize you meant it would crank, but not start. Scratch that.
Quote:
Mechanic claimed to have run a compression and injector test, said they were both fine. Not inclined to believe that, though, or at least that it was done well/correctly. I'll get it done ASAP.
OK, since you have only smelled gas after they worked on it, check the fuel line where it connects to the fuel rail. Maybe they loosened it and didn't tighten it down enough and it's leaking.Also check the connections for the cold start injector and check to see if gas is leaking at the injectors.
Quote:
The plugs were definitely not loose until after I got the car back- it also never smelled of gasoline, till now, which is worrying.
I have timing light, and understand how to check it- problems is, I just am not sure where to look for the belt itself, and the marks. This must seem silly obvious to anyone else...but I've been unable to figure out just where to look.
You don't need to see the belt. You need to aim the timing light at the crankshaft pulley. There's notch in it for reference and timing. It's easier to see the notch if you dab some white paint on the notch.
I'm thinking ignition or fuel problem. Hopefully, some of the others will chime in.Hard to diagnose over the internet.
Thanks for the dedicated troubleshooting Yeah, internet is not a great way to fix things- but it gets info/insights I wouldn't otherwise have.
I'll look up the fuel rail and "cold start injector". I know where the injectors are...but it's very hard to see anything around them. One of my first thoughts was to check that, for the same reason, but didn't see anything amiss- I'll try to look closer, I still suspect the same.
Haa...crankshaft pully eh? Glad you told me that before I tore that cover/etc off in search. I'll have to look up that one too...good 'ol google search It should be fairly obvious, easy to see?
I don't see any indication of whether they are pre-gapped or not. Maybe the service guy even gave me the wrong ones? He didn't seem very knowledgeable...even a bit slow, lol.
Anything you can see on that page that shows whether gapped or not? I really just assumed they all came that way these days :P
I just checked the BGB and for the 5SFE it recommends NGK BKR5E-YA11 gapped to 1.1mm(.43")
I would only use oem parts from the ignition, that's what the engineers at toyota thought worked well and it's all proven to be a strong enough spark for 99% of people. My car has completely stock ignition and spark is the least of my concern...
I would try gapping yours to 1.1 and check if it makes any difference
__________________
-91 Mr2Turbo-363WHP/289WTQ
I'm not happy, More power coming...
Now 386hp/300tq and still not happy
-94 Toyota Pickup SR5-
The Following User Says Thank You to Russell D For This Useful Post:
Thanks Russel- I'll see if my friend has gapping tools, I've seen 'em before, and should be able to figure it out.
Meanwhile, I'm laughing painfully at how ridiculously more expensive my plugs were than the stock toyota ones- I really didn't think much when I purchased these, and I agree- Toyota knows what they are doing, I'm sure. I'll test that out, and let you know- thanks!
So, compression test (if possible), properly gapped plugs, and fuel line + injector checking. Got it.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Forum for every generation Toyota MR2. Including the AW11 and SW20.
You don't need to see the belt. You need to aim the timing light at the crankshaft pulley. There's notch in it for reference and timing. It's easier to see the notch if you dab some white paint on the notch.
Linear Mode
