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Old 03-28-2011, 04:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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USA Location of MR2 Main Relay

Can anyone tell me where is the location of the Main Relay for a 1989 MR2? My 89 MR2 keeps dying (engine cut off) after start it up for 15 or more minutes. I had already put in a brand new radiator and flush the coolant, new set of spark plug wires, new ignition coil, new thermostad but problem still exist. A friend of mine said it might be the Main Relay that's bad. Where can I find the Main Relay? I know there are three relays in the fuse box next to the battery, but I don't think any of them are the Main Relay. I also found another relay on the driver side by the left foot side panel. I didn't see any label anywhere as to what this relay is for. I'm thinking this might be the one I'm looking for. So I replaced it with a new one that I purchased online, but the problem still didn't go away. So, where it the main relay if the one I replaced is not the right one? Any help will be appreciated.
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Old 03-29-2011, 07:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Common guys. Doesn't anybody here knows where the location of the main relay is? Within the circuit box next to the battery, there are two relays. One is round and labeled as EFT and there is another that is square black labeled as Engine. These are the only two relays that I think could be the main relay. Does either one of these the main relay???
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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This outta help: http://opc.mr2oc.com/
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Old 04-07-2011, 08:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If your car runs and doesn't die assuming until it is fully warmed up, it's not the (Main Engine relay). The Engine relay is in junction block #2 at the engine compartment and is called Engine relay. If the car is dieing it could be a few things such as bad timing, Idle out of adjustment, vacuum leaks, throttle body leaks, bad compression, Port intake faulty gasket, aswell as over heating. I do not think it's over heating. Mr2's usually don't over heat that fast (10 minute warm periods) even with a faulty thermostat. So that's two down. Start with something simple. Try jumping the OBD1 diagnostics that sits in the engine comparment at terminal T and E1. After it's jumped, turn the key ignition to just before starting vehicle and watch the engine check light blink(s). Count how many blinks you get and how often. Example, 2blinks, 1blink, 3blinks etc. Note the code on paper, and look it up in a haynes book. haynes books are 35 bucks at part stores. If you have no money, call a shop and ask them if they can decode the blinking code for you. Another test. Start the car, and warm it up for 10 minutes, and check engine idle. The tac rpms should read about 1100 to 1300 rpm's. If it's dropping below the 1, or 1000 mark, then adjust the engine idle. You'll find the engine idle screw at the port intake manifold, underneith a black rubber cap, (turn counter clockwise) to bring idle up. If this isn't the problem then that is three down for troubleshoot checking. 4, Check vacuum lines carefully. Sometimes you have to bend them to be able to see a pen size, or crack in a vacuum line. If they are old, you might consider replacement, being that vacuum line is cheap and sold by th foot. Take them down to the parts store to have them matched up for replacement. If that's not the problem go to number 5. 5, Check the throttle body for leaks. A Trick to know if the throttlebody is leaking is..Take a can of carburator choke sprey and sprey around the mating end that connects to the port intake, and other areas of the throttlebody to see if it is leaking. If the throttlebody sucks it in, or tries to die, then you have a bad gasket/vacuum leak. Make sure you have the car running and the throttle brought up to about 3 to 3500 rpms. If that doesn't work go to step 6. 6, check the timing. Sometimes older cars with wear and tear need the timing advanced alittle in order to run better, unless rebuilt. If you don't know what to do, then drop it off to a shop and let them do it, for about $75 bucks. 7, Check the compression. If you can't do this, take it to a shop. If all of these fail, or you do not want to mess with the vehicle anymore. Take the car to a shop and let them run a diagnostics for about 45 to 75 bucks. Then they'll be able to tell you what's wrong with it. Sometimes it may cost more if they can't find the problem right away.

P.S.... By the way will the car restart? Also do you have to press the throttle while trying to start the car? If the throttle has to be pressed, it's more than likely a vacuum leak specially if the car stays running with throttle held in position while starting, and while running.
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