It's a 1990 SW20 N/A (3s-ge). Rebuilt Engine on May 2010, with water pump & timing belt & clutch). Only change is a Apexi pod filter & new ignition leads. Service was always done as usual.
Workshop that did the rebuild had done my services, week before last service engine started pinging upon acceleration at ~1200-1700rpms and also first touch/1 second of the accelerator even driving at 100km/h.. when continuously accelerating I don't hear it. Engine was not pinging after the rebuild. I was also having response issues i.e. going up a hill etc.
The workshop decided it was a Injector issue. I gave them the go ahead to clean out the injectors & Throttle Body. Since, it has helped the response but the pinging was still there.
After the Injector clean, the rev's started fluctuating on idle. I told them this and they don't know and are going to trial and error so I took it to another workshop which I got recommended to.
Second workshop had my car for 2days, first day he couldn't find a solution. Second day, he clamped the return fuel line and said he couldn't hear the pinging anymore. To determine where the issue was from he hooked it up to a diagnostic machine and also ran inter-ject solution through the system. "Fuel pressure ok, ecu ok, fuel regulator ok, fuel pump ok, slight tank contamination".
He had a look inside the cylinders and found little carbon ontop of the piston. He recons the First workshop only did a Carbon clean and not a full system clean.
He's out of ideas and said he will have a think but he might need to start pullings things apart to find the problem. So at the moment I got my car back. Paid $250 for the 2days & diagnostic machine. He's a good bloke.
I've got a repair manual for my car. Checked the diagnostic system on my car by connecting the 2 terminals. I got 2-1 (O2 sensor or Oxygen Sensor Heater). while I was trying to test the O2 sensor by revving the engine to 2500rpm, a second code showed up - 5-1 (Switch Condition Signal). When I had the voltmeter on the terminals it gave me a crazy reading that made no sense, i'll try it again tonight.
I think maybe when they cleaned the throttle body something happened?
Can anyone give some suggestions? had a similar problem? 2 different workshops can't work it out. I don't really have the money to randomly replace things.
Edit: Second mechanic thinks it might be a cooling issue.. while gripping the coolant hoses he heard cracking.. like a crust on the inside of the hose. Could try giving the cooling system a flush/treatment.
Edit: When the injectors got cleaned first time, the fuel filter got replaced.. apparently it was terrible.
Edit: There is no pinging when in neutral regardless of the revs. It only starts pinging when car is/close to operating temperature, while its cold I don't hear any noise. Also I've just taken out the fuse for the ECU to reset it, I'll drive home from work and then check the diagnostic again to see if the codes still appear. As I opened my bonnet (car has sat for 3hrs), I could hear a sizzling/crackling kind of noise from the fuel canister? possible leak in one of the hoses?
I myself have not. The second mechanic did say he adjusted it tho.
Although my idle does sit normal. It's not a constant fluctuation. Maybe every 10 seconds?
I put 95oct fuel in my car yesterday. I did want to put 98 in but my petrol station didn't have 98 so had to settle for 95. I live in Australia. I'm not sure if it's changed anything. I 'think' the pinging is not as bad but it could be that I'm imagining that because I want something to go with. But the pinging was still there.
Last night I did check the vacuum lines (with the engine off), pulled some off and inspected for cracks while others I just twisted it and had a torch to see. I couldn't find any cracks.
I did put my old ignition leads on my car 2 days ago to check if it's my ignition leads like the first mechanic wanted to change. Only reason I replaced my old ignition leads was just because I thought they were old and doubt anyone had changed them in ages. It did not change anything. So I put newer (1yr old) ones back on (Top Gun TG4617).
When I got home from work yesterday (reset ECU at lunch), I checked the diagnostic codes. First I got everything normal. So the Code 21 (o2 sensor) got erased and hasn't come back. I revved the engine to 2500rpms for about 10 seconds and then I got the Code 51 again.
When I got home from work yesterday (reset ECU at lunch), I checked the diagnostic codes. First I got everything normal. So the Code 21 (o2 sensor) got erased and hasn't come back. I revved the engine to 2500rpms for about 10 seconds and then I got the Code 51 again.
Code 51: System: Switch Condition Switch Diagnosis: No "IDL" signal, "NSW" signal or "A/C" signal to ECU, with the check connector terminals TE1 & E1 connected. Trouble Area: A/C switch Circuit, A/C switch, A/C amplifier, Throttle position sensor circuit, Throttle position sensor, Neutral start switch circuit, Neutral start switch, Accelerator pedal and cable or ECU.
OK. I think that code is the knock sensor for my 3sgte. I had to replace mine last year.I thought it would be the same.
And wow, thats alot of stuff related to that code.
OK. I think that code is the knock sensor for my 3sgte. I had to replace mine last year.I thought it would be the same.
And wow, thats alot of stuff related to that code.
Tell me bout it.
A/C stands for AirCon right? My aircon has never blown cold air. I don't think there is a problem with it other than no gas (leak most likely). It switches on etc.
NSW stands for Neutral Switch right? So the car won't start unless in Neutral or Clutch in? If I try to start the car in a gear without clutch and it jumps (as it should) would that eliminate this?
Best option to start checking is Throttle Sensor?
Edit: 3SGTE - Code 52 is Knock Sensor Signal & Code 53 is Knock Control Signal. Code 51 is Switch Control Signal (all these codes are the same as my 3SGE)
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