My wifes 1999 SW20 seems to have very little heat coming into the cabin with the heater control at max. I suspected an air lock, so delved under the front, took out the spare wheel and the 2 plastic covers to reveal the radiator and the heater hoses. I found the air bleed on the heater and the white flat headed screwdriver slot to open it.
My problem started with what is supposed to be the air bleed on the radiator. What I took to be the air bleed is screwed into the rad and sticks out horizontally, it has a thumbscrew on the top, that you can't get to, and there is nowhere to attach an air bleed pipe. Has anyone any ideas? The engine heats up but the hot water doesn't seem to reach the radiator for about 20 mins, even then, with the heater control to max there is only just warm air blowing into the cabin. Has anyone any ideas if I can replace the rad air bleed with one that works, or is there an alternative method of getting air out of the system?? Thanks in anticipation. Bill W.
I did remove the black Plastic covering above it, but the bleed valve is positioned horizontally, and not vertically, and has no stub to fit a bleed hose to ??
and can only be turned an eigth of a turn at a time with pliers.
Bill W.
I don't own one so this is just a question. Why would you need a bleed hose if you're bleeding air out of the valve? Sure it might spit a little coolant out but I wouldn't think it would be much. Stick an old towel or rag under it and I would think you'd be good.
There is a specific way to bleed the system, as the engine is in the rear and the radiator is up front. Any one got any ideas. The only solution can come up with is to replace the radiator with one with a vertical air bleed valve.
The "bleed valve" is about 1" from the top of the Radiator, on the righthand side, looking from the front of the car backwards, and points horizontally backwards towards the bulkhead. There is neither a stub to attach a hose to, nor a hole to expel the air from. I am puzzled, could the cause be anything else than an airlock? As the temperature guage reads normally, I would not have suspected the thermostat. What symptoms would a stuck open or closed thermostat exhibit, overcooling, overheating on the guage?? Bill W.
Stuck open, or simply opening too soon because of a weak spring can prevent the operating temp to get hot enough to feel any heat. You might think 140F is hot but if the system is designed to run at 175F that's a huge difference. You should be able to look at your temp gauge and get an idea if you're running at a somewhat normal temp. I'd guess somewhere between 1/3 to 1/2 would be about right. If it's on the low side then it could be a weak or open t-stat. Stuck closed should overheat the engine fairly quickly.
MR2 Jedi,
Just a thought on your last comment. Jacking up the rear would send the coolant to the front, but the air would migrate to the highest point, ie the rear. Wouldn't it be better to jack up the front to get the air to where the bleed valves are, ie the front?? Cheers Bill W.
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