I'm looking for a 5sfe to go into my mr2 (bought the car without an engine) and I was curious if the newer model 5sfe will fit and work in my mr2. I have a 92 model and I am very curious if the 94+ 5sfe's will work easily. I don't want to have to change any of the wiring harness unless it is to delete wires. Thanks for your info.
Why not just buy a sw20 instead. Mostly all mr2 turbo use the motor or come with the motor, so you don't have to worry about modding anything. Sw20 will also fit in perfectly because it is an mr2 original engine.
The 94+ 5sfe will fit in to, I think swapping in the 94+ 5sfe would be easy to but I dont know if its wiring harness are in same color code as the mr2. Otherwise everything should be easy to do.
I've done a celica swap with an mr2 motor and the wiring color code are different from the celica. So maybe the 5sfe wiring harness might also be different.
Depending on the year of the 5sfe though, I know that the 91-93 5sfe will fit right on too since it was also an original motor for an mr n/a. But 94+ could be made differently.
But if I bought an mr2 with no motor I go for an 3sgte. I like the sound of turbo better.
I may go 3sgte later, but the car came 5sfe stock. I was just looking for a good long lasting replacement stock for it. I plan on autocrossing the car extensively probably daily driving it, I have 2 dsms so I'm pretty much set on the turbo bug. Right now I'm looking at a full purpose e stock autocross machine. Until I get better I won't go turbo. I use to have a crx that was in d mod, and let me tell you, mod sucks when you have zero suspension modifications. Hope this clears up why. Thanks for the information and I do appreciate it.
SW20 IS NOT AN ENGINE... IT IS THE CHASSIS CODE!!!
Turbo = 3SGTE
NA = 5SFE
Quote:
Originally posted by YangS Why not just buy a sw20 instead. Mostly all mr2 turbo use the motor or come with the motor, so you don't have to worry about modding anything. Sw20 will also fit in perfectly because it is an mr2 original engine.
The 94+ 5sfe will fit in to, I think swapping in the 94+ 5sfe would be easy to but I dont know if its wiring harness are in same color code as the mr2. Otherwise everything should be easy to do.
I've done a celica swap with an mr2 motor and the wiring color code are different from the celica. So maybe the 5sfe wiring harness might also be different.
i have asked this question before. kinda of off topic though. I have a 1992 mr2 na. what do i need to do to turbo it. i have been told it is a real extensive swap? what do i need for the complete turbo swap and some average prices people have spent including the engine?
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I was sticking with the 5sfe, will stick with it. I've called around to some yards and it seems the 90-91's have something different with their axles than the 92 ups. Also seems that the later 95 plus 5sfe's might have different cooling jackets, built in. Probably more is different but I'll find out as I go. Hope this helps some of you.
why would someone want a slow engine? the 5sfe is weak...mine is even weaker because a valve seal is leaking, and 3 of my 4 spark plugs are drenched in oil...i cant stand driving a nice looking slow car...you mean to tell me if you had a choice you'd take a slow car over the same exact car but fast? is gas 5 bucks a gallon where you live? is that why?
Easy answer if you read any of the post above. It's going to be a full purpose autocross car possibly daily driver. It's all about classification. I've been stuck in a mod class before because of an engine swap and I won't do it again. I have a turbo car (94 tsi awd) that will be my go fast car but an n/a mr2 sounds mighty fine to me for a good autocross/daily grinder. I daily drive a second gen eclipse gst now I can tell you when I autocross it that even with the small turbo on it, lag is something I would just rather not deal with on the courses here. Most are very very tight, and extremely technical. I hate chicago boxes and 360 turns. You guys don't give enough credit to the 5sfe, I'm sure it's not that bad. So in closing, if you don't have anything positive to add to this thread don't add anything at all. Thank you drive through.
ps. if you can't even do general maintenance (i.e. valve cover seals that cost all of what? 40 bucks?) why even suggest a turbo engine swap. You DO know what goes into a swap like this right. It's not just drop it in and go, there are major wiring changes along with a swap like this.
well if you want a slow MR2 you can have mine...i'll sell it to you for 2 g's...i dont want it...i've been either trying to sell it or swap the engine, whichever opportunity comes first...so if a slow MR2 is your thing, i got the slowest 2 known to man
If you'll go to the scca solo 2 nationals results page, you'll see they aren't slow cars at all. Eight of the top ten in E stock are n/a mr2's. They match the times the 99 miatas are pulling, and both cars are pulling better times than super stock corvettes. I believe you just don't know how to keep up on the maintenance of your car. Without knowing how to do general maintenance you're going to be stuck in a slow car no matter what it is.
FyxxterZC, you are obviosuly wise and know what you want.
I truly love my 5SFE MR2. The power band is incredibly smooth, torquey and very predictable on the autocross course.
The NA MR2 is extremely competitive in it's class.
I much rather autocross/daily drive my NA than the Turbo car ... your understanding is right on.
Unfortunately I am not aware of the technical differences between the years of the 5SFE. You may want to check the 5SFE (NA) forum on www.mr2oc.com.
It is not uncommon for the 5SFE MR2 to turn much quicker lap times than the 3SGTE at a Solo II autocross.
93+ heads differ a bit in terms of slightly more aggressive cams and slightly bigger valves (exc. Camry). They also have 2 cycle firing for injectors vs. batch fire (all 4 at once) for 91-92. Now 1996-2001 5S-FE has different cooling passages that seemed to have caused the engine sludging problem that affected many people who regularly maintained their vehicles. A mechanic stated that they are smaller than previous years and tend to make the engine run hotter. Fully synthetic oil is recommended for these years.
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