3sgte died last night after 5 minutes of driving - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

91TurboMR2 · 01-13-2005, 05:13 PM

I was comming back from playing some pool at a bar and my car started fine and ran for 5 minutes before it sputtered and died at a stop light. It was a night mare because I've had this car for 6 months and its the first time it stranded me. I had to push it almost a quarter mile on flat ground which got old REAL fast. It started fine this morning when I went back but then died again after 10 minutes of driving but strated back up unlike last night. I think I am just getting water on my dist. cap and thats why it's stalling and dying. It rainned realy hard last night and then it snowed all night so that may be the culprit. Any body got some sugestions on why my car is acting like this?! thanks

jason

***MRQtwinturbo*** · 01-13-2005, 06:28 PM

are u getting all the engine warnig lights coming on??....alternator is going perhaps??....check your batter terminals and make sure they are on tight....

91TurboMR2 · 01-13-2005, 06:41 PM

when the car died all the lights came on that turn on when you put thte key in the ignition before you start the engine.

***MR2Jedi*** · 01-13-2005, 09:52 PM

have you checked fuel filter? sometimes sediment gets stirred up after driving alittle while and then not enough fuel gets thru-especially under load. then can idle fine when you stop. and restart when sediment settles again .

jackcannibal · 01-15-2005, 09:46 AM

Yeah, my first guess would be fuel failure. Go to the parts store and spend $35 on a fuel psi testing kit (for fuel injected cars...or they'll give you some crap for carbs.) and drive with the guage taped to the windshield. Watch what happens when it starts snorting and dying. I'm guessing filter or pump.

Also, if it is the pump, you can get a Walbro 255lph pump for like $80 on Ebay.

91TurboMR2 · 01-16-2005, 09:24 PM

how much more lph does the walbro pump more than the stock? I would need a fuel pressure regulator and a fuel pressure gauge , right? thanks alot guys

aosmith · 01-16-2005, 10:59 PM

i dont see why you couldnt just use the fpr thats built into the fuel rail

JekylandHyde · 01-17-2005, 05:35 AM

Because the FPR built into the rail is not adjustable.
If you upgrade to the Walbro, you are going to need to be able to control it.
If you are not shooting for 280+ rwhp there is no need to upgrade to the Walbro. In fact, it will cause more problems than what it will "help."

If you car sputtered and died and all the lights came on, you stalled out.

I would first check for vacuum leaks. Do you have an aftermeraket BOV on the car?
That is the first place I would look. They are great for making an MR2 run terrible.

What mods do you have?

91TurboMR2 · 01-17-2005, 01:50 PM

HKS exhuast, K&N intake, "twos r us" MBC, Nology hot wires, thats it for the engine mods. I dont have a BOV either. It was starting to stall when I was driving and then when i came to a stop in nuetral the car died at idle. I am really convinced that it was just water on the dist cap because the car started fine the next morning when I came to get it and it hasn't done it again since. It rained REALLY hard so Im contributing the stall and not bieng able to restart it to the rain.

And I am actuall aiming for the limit of the stock ecu in regards to horse power. ~275ish is my goal so I dont know if I need the pump or not. Or even bigger injectors either. But I dont know , Im still learning

JekylandHyde · 01-17-2005, 02:39 PM

275, you will be fine on stock ecu and fuel, but you will be nowhere near the limits ofthe ECU. I am at 351 rwhp on the stock ecu

WhiteMR291 · 01-19-2005, 10:33 PM

lol thats impressive. Ok question for you(sorry for getting off topic) but im doing an na-turbo swap now and i put in a walbro fuel pump. Was this a bad idea or good idea, you got me confused on waht you said earlier.
-Terry

JekylandHyde · 01-20-2005, 10:43 AM

It was wise to upgrade your NA fuel pump.
The Walbro may encourage you to run excessively rich.

The best thing to do is get an adjustable FPR (www.trueleo.com/fpr.htm).
If you dyno your car, you can adjust the static FP to maximise your fue lusage and power, without running too rich or lean.

WhiteMR291 · 01-20-2005, 03:00 PM

Ok, so its gonan be about 250.00 for parts? eeeeek. I was told it will run fine with the walbro pump installed. O since i got the pump i also got an air/fuel gauge, and because it looks cool. Now, which wire would i splice into to get the gauge working on the o2 sensor wires?
-Terry

91TurboMR2 · 01-21-2005, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JekylandHyde

275, you will be fine on stock ecu and fuel, but you will be nowhere near the limits ofthe ECU. I am at 351 rwhp on the stock ecu

Holy crap! I have seen and read alot of your posts and seen your web page for the past 5 months of being on mr2oc.com (sleepin-mr2) but I never realized you were doing that all on the stock ecu!! Your running like 21 psi on the SB kit , right? I thought that to run higher boost on an upgraded turbo you need more fuel hence the need for an EMS? What ever the case, I am surpised at your 351rwhp with the stock ecu

***MR2Jedi*** · 01-21-2005, 12:59 PM

hey, I tripped on that too. but thats good news not having to buy/modify ECU. been doin' alot of reading on the 3S-gte and it was built for racing and has been substantially tuned down from the factory to provide high reliability and meet emission requirements. they require little effort to get 50% to 70% out of the engine