disagree. MR2 brakes do not work fine... not if you push them.
i'm thinking about a similar swap and i saw a site that did the swap to mkiv supra brakes but i can't remember where... supra brakes may also help with that handbrake prob you can get with aftermarket calipers.
double disagree. its the brake pads that dont work if you push hard, not the caliper/discs.
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
disagree. MR2 brakes do not work fine... not if you push them.
I disagree
I am using factory 91 MR2T brakes with:
OEM calipers with the Toyota caliper rebuild kit ($20 per end)
OEM Rotors
Porterfield R4S pads
They seem to work fine for me during my hill climbs and autocrosses ... they work fine for bringing Hyde down from 115mph+ to nail a 180° turn.
The two BIGGEST problems people have with MR2 brakes are cheap pads and sticking calipers. Invest in some Porterfield R4S pads and you will not be complaining about your brakes ever again. Promise
ok i'll try em if i can find em! also gonna put some braided lines on to try and get rid of a bit of spongy feeling when they heat up.... and they DO heat up. how long do the R4S pads last? cause i'm putting them on my street car so i'd be hoping to get a bit out of them... i know longevity is counter productive to performance...
dont bother with ss braid lines.. do the pads first, they will heat up, but by then youll will also notice that your standard discs will be melting as well, so you got a looong way
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
the reason why i want the supra brakes; is bc i think they look alot better then the stock turbo mr2 brakes. but if it does fit will i need the tt supra brake lines, rotor, caliper (obivously), master brake cylinder, caliper mount. thanks for any info.
ahem, you want to rice your car? pretty sure the supra has the right bolt pattern for the disc..that will fit... whoever im not sure on the offset, as mr2's run a fwd offset, discs from a supra may poke outwards a bit too much so calipers may not clear wheels... supra tt discs/calipers on a camry (same deal) will need at least 19-21" wheels to clear them.. IF they fit that is...
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
The porterfields seem to last quite a while, but they do make a healthy amount of brake dust. I rather clean my wheels than pull my car out ofa tree
I will be looking to upgrade my brakes in the next year or so, but I am not looking to increase the performance of the braking. I have plenty of brakes to lock up the wheels, so there really is no increase to be had. What I would be looking to do is upgraded to a light-weight calipers like the wildwoods.
Brake dust doesn't worry me, i'm more worried about my cars performance than how pretty it is... well to an extent...nobody wants to drive something that looks like a crap heap.
SS lines are to stop the rubber from expanding, that should happen before the rotor gets too hot, but before i bother doing them i want to work out what brakes i'm eventually putting on cause it's not worth it if i get Brembo or Willwood calipers that won't fit the lines in a year or so... meanwhile i'll try the pads and see how they go... upgrading to 93+ brakes might be an option too...
Brake dust doesn't worry me, i'm more worried about my cars performance than how pretty it is... well to an extent...nobody wants to drive something that looks like a crap heap.
SS lines are to stop the rubber from expanding, that should happen before the rotor gets too hot, but before i bother doing them i want to work out what brakes i'm eventually putting on cause it's not worth it if i get Brembo or Willwood calipers that won't fit the lines in a year or so... meanwhile i'll try the pads and see how they go... upgrading to 93+ brakes might be an option too...
idyou want ss braid cables, buy the cables from a quality place yourself and make your on AN heads.. most kits are dodgy and end up leaking after 2-3 years.. way sohrter then the 10+ years standard rubber cables can manage.
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
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