the 5sfe stock piston size is 87mm..... I have forged pistons(87mm) for my turbo build... what I am wondering is : when I hone the cylinders, will that make an important difference in choosing the size of the piston? I won't have to remove much material when honing... just rough it up a bit....
Just be careful not to hone it more than 1 or 2 times. It could make a difference in piston size and since you're building a high performance engine, if the piston and cylinder don't go together even a tiny amount, it could lead to a loss of power and other problems. I personally wouldn't touch it myself, but I don't know your level of expertise on engines. I've never done this on a car, but I remember a while back when I took apart my dirt bike engine, I honed the cylinder just a few times. The bike ran fine at first, but after a couple times of normal riding, it just lost compression . I figure it was from honing it a little bit too much or maybe I just blew a ring but I have a feeling it would've been just fine if I never honed it.
Honing shouldn't change bore size much. It'll take a long time to get 0.001" from honing. As soon as you see a nice x hatch, stop. The rings will take up the different. Of course you should check if bore is to spec and not worn oversized or turn oval.
I have honed only one engine in my life. it was a chevy nova. It ran great for several years until I sold it.do like pineapple says. angle the hone and do it just enough to get that X pattern then stop. the x should be between the cylinders-not towards the outside of the block. be gentle'' treat her like yo favorite bitch"!!!
mr2bad.... I severly dislike "my favorite bitch" !! at the moment. but I'll check the cylinders for warpage and just deglaze the cylinders... instead of an all-out hone....sort of the same thing, but not as much material is removed.
all you need to do is make microscopic catches in the walls to seat the rings, then wear away without making the hole bigger or out of round. look at the walls now and if it isnt severly worn out there should be most of a cross hatch in the walls still there, look for big missing pattern places on the walls, just put a piece of 400 grit wetordry on your hand, stick it in the bore and go up and down as you go around with it, put a good pattern on it and soak a rag with a little oil and wipe em down, drag a flat bastard metal file across the top until it gets all of the surface and dont force it to do this, wipe it all down and put the stupid motor together
wipe it all down and put the stupid motor together
geeze man .... I'm doing all I can, but I want this timebomb to be perfect!!
I'm at work right now, so I'll check when I get home in the morning to see if there is any worn\out-of-round spots in the cylinders....
copy that.... I'm back at work...I really only have time to sleep when I get off work lately... so I'll get this freak done soon. thanks again for the help.
could you check out my thread " mr2 - camry 5sfe oil pump differences" I think it's on the 2nd page...... I have been looking everywhere for any information on this , and have come up with nothing.... I figured the only thing to do next is buy a camry service manual.
I'm going to this auction later today and will hopefully come back with another mr-2.... or a 240. we'll see how it goes, but I'm still kind of wondering about that pesky oil pump difference. I might just have to use the block that is keeping my mr-2 alive..... that is if I don't figure this thing out.
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. I figure it was from honing it a little bit too much or maybe I just blew a ring but I have a feeling it would've been just fine if I never honed it.
.... I'm doing all I can, but I want this timebomb to be perfect!!
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