I know the limit is 110... but the car shakes CRAZY even at that speed..... here's what I've noticed. after my hydroplaning experience I have noticed the front of the car shakes alot when I get over 80klh (50mph)... I can see the front of the car moving left and right on the road... and I'm constantly fighting the steering wheel. ALSO has anyone ever noticed when they drive over uneven lanes, or even a small crack along the lane that the car pulls in the direction of the imperfection? they are doing construction in my area, and where they have laid different layers of "ASSfault" I feel like I'm driving an indy car... fighting that wheel for my life. should I invest in a diffuser to give my car a little more stability? I know I need an alignment... that is probobly part of it, but.... I am truly scared to drive this car over 140klh. it just feels like it could go off the road at any moment. my car is lowered 2" front \back ,17" wheels, trd swaybars front\back, trd strut braces front\back...??? any suggestions..... other than slowing down?
If your car is out of line, depending on the severity of it, this can be contributed to most of your problem. You will always be fighting to kep the car going straight. My mkII will steer in the direction of uneven surfaces as well. Every mkII that I've driven does the same. It is very slight, nothing drastic. My Jeep does the same as well. As for your front end, don't know what to say, it could be the misalignment, it could be something else. Lastly, the vibration.......you will feel a lot more vibration having your suspension setup. Stiffer springs, strut braces, sway bars will drastically increase this. Your rims will too. Bigger rims=smaller tires=more vibration. Do you have a set of hubcentric rings for your whees? This will get rid of a lot of the vibration in your steering wheel and such. It drastically helped mine. Oh and mess around with your tire pressure.
Did you have the car aligned after you lowered it?
I suspect you are WAY out of alignment.
Did you change the struts when you lowered it?
Lowering springs are typically stiffer and should have an upgraded strut to go with them; otherwise your risk blowing out your struts which could cause you to sway.
Lastly, what size tires do you have up front?
225's (and larger) tend to "Grab the ruts in the road" more than other sizes.
Also, if you have a stickier performance tire it is going to be more likely to grab.
What you are describing it not typical of our cars.
There is something wrong with your set up.
My car is dead solid going 125 mph, through turns on typical roads.
J&h I did have the car aligned once I added the springs, struts, wheels and spacers.... but that was a while back, and I did hydroplane into the median of the interstate not too long ago... on my way to work just a minute ago I hit 110 mph and suprisingly the car was stable.... given there wasn't much wind. but it must definately need an alignment... sliding into a ditch at 75mph isn't going to help anything. I've got a few days off work this week (4 day weekend!!) I'll get under there and check everything out.
a friend of mine was driving a sentra (without abs) and hydroplaned at about 110 mph... hit the brakes and skidded a ways before slowing down enough to regain control. after this skid session, i assumed the tires were worn unevenly. this caused major vibration until the tire was replaced.
perhaps this happened to you as well? did you hit the brakes and lock them up after you realized you were hydroplaning?
absolutely not... I immediately threw the car into nuetral (auto) and fought the wheel as much as possible... but it didn't matter, there was too much water on the road for my tires to regain traction.. I simply had to wait it out... and I did notice that the rear tires were worn down in one large patch ... aparently from sliding sideways for so long... and I also found they had a severe bulge in the steel belt... so once I had the car ripped out of the ditch I did 30mph the rest of the way home... pansy style. I actually wasn't worried about the body when it happened.. I was just hoping I didn't damage any important mechanical parts.
when you find out your car is unstable at 100.. you keep going to 180 to find out?!
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
Ball Joints: The ball joints on the MR2 can last a long time (100k miles), however, if you notice a shaking in your steering wheel at speed and you know that the wheels are all balanced and the alignment proper, than the ball joints may need to be replaced. Toyota sells these at ~$35/each.
I ordered my ball joint about two weeks ago... AND THEY ARE NOT HERE YET!!?? I'm filing a complaint through paypal as I type... so I'm hoping to get my money back to go find some more ball joints.
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Forum for every generation Toyota MR2. Including the AW11 and SW20.
car sways <-- violently --> between 100-180 klh
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