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Old 04-14-2005, 09:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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2nd Generation Engine Oil

I need to know what kind of oil the 1991 MR2 N/A (5sfe) engine takes.
When I purchased the car it didnt come with the owners manual.
Actually, if anyone has the owners manual and or repair manual in PDF or any other file could you send it to datailwind@hotmail.com it would be a great help Thanks....
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Old 04-14-2005, 09:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You should use 5W30. Use 10W30 when 5W30 is not available.

The shop manual is too big to send via email.

Last edited by BDSL; 04-14-2005 at 11:17 PM.
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Old 04-14-2005, 11:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yeh that's the weight I use. AMSOil synthetic. The first time I put AMSOil in my 5s I ran one of those bottles of engine flush for about 20 minutes at 2k rpms. & if you're curious (the topic always gets mentioned), yes, oil leaks are common when switching to a full synthetic, but that's only because synthetic is thinner than organic oil (i think, I'm no expert), & so the only leaks that you get when switching oils are leaks that already existed. I didn't have any leaks anyplace when I switched, so I guess my engine is pretty healthy. Here's a resource for you:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi? Bob is the Oil Guy
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Old 04-15-2005, 02:39 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Please don't switch to 5W-30 unless it's below 0 deg F or your engine has been rebuilt. IMO, 5W-30 is way too thin at startup and cool down and will essentially leak through those old valve guide seals. Hell, even 10W-30 leaks through the valve guide seals causing the infamous smoke on startup. I have to switch to 20W-50 to keep my oil from burning off so fast. It usually burns about 1 quart every 500 miles with 10W-30, and about 1 quart every 1250 miles with 20W-50.

Also, synthetic isn't thinner, it just has a lot more detergents in it. So, it basically cleans up your engine, which therefore, causes your leaks. I would recommend synthetic only after the break in period of a 5S rebuild. Using it on an old engine is a waste of money, IMO.
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Last edited by 91MR2quickNA; 04-15-2005 at 03:27 AM. Reason: Added comments
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Old 04-15-2005, 04:19 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Maybe it's a waste of money. You would have to figure out how much you pay on the oil you use now, and compare that with how much you would spend on synthetic. With synthetic, change intervals are extended to at least every 6000 miles, & every 3000 miles for the filter.
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Old 04-15-2005, 02:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Actually, Toyota's recommended oil change interval is 7,500 miles for both the oil and filter under normal driving conditions whether synthetic or not (2,500 miles for the turbo's oil and 5,000 for the filter). IMO, changing your oil every 3,000 miles is a waste of money too unless you're redlining your car every day or sitting in traffic for more than 4 hours a day.

I change my oil every 5,000 miles and use a top quality filter like the PureONE P14476. Unless oil companies show proof that every engine's oil breaks down at 3,000 miles, then maybe I'd consider it (obviously turbocharged engines will because of the intense heat of the turbo and the oil running through it). You're really supposed to follow the manufacturer's engine oil change schedule depending on your personal driving habits.
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Old 04-16-2005, 02:30 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Use 5w30 in winter where u are and straight 30w in the summer.. whether synthetic or reg...
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Old 04-16-2005, 04:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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i wouldn't use any synthetic unless you have 60K miles or under. i also wouldn't do it unless you KNOW the condition of valve seals and other oil seals. you can use Toyota filters...they're GOOD. if you go with a K&N or Mobil1 or anything like that, remember that they filter down to the micron, so you NEED to change those at the recommended interval. any other filter is pretty much going to be opinion-driven as i really don't trust aftermarket filters. if you really have the penchant for the synthetic, maybe you can mix your own 'synth-blend' as the bottle synthblends are only 10% synthetic. so, you could just use 1:3 conventional if you use 4 quarts.
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Old 04-16-2005, 04:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by movingviolation
yes, oil leaks are common when switching to a full synthetic, but that's only because synthetic is thinner than organic oil (i think, I'm no expert), & so the only leaks that you get when switching oils are leaks that already existed.
the molecules of synthetic oils are much smaller than those of conventional oil. Mobil 1 is now fully synthetic whereas before, they still used a conventional carrier oil. RedLine and AMSOil are both fully synthetic, but different. i can't remember off the top of my head, but the RedLine is a polyol-esther base. the AMSOil was one of the very first jet-turbine approved oil. useless trivia...
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Old 04-19-2005, 10:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I have always used 10w30 and my engine has 200k+ on it... the last 40k were put on by myself, and they can be considered HARD miles. still running great. I thought about putting 20w50 in during the summer, but have yet to make the change. I just figured that might gum-up the engine. I always ran 20w50 in my rx-7... simply because it was prone to spontaneous combustion... (severe overheating\fuel pulsation dampner leaking onto manifold) stuff like that... crazy rotaries
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