I'm attacking my "shaking violently" thing with everything I can. got the alignment done, balanced wheels, camber A+..... still shakes like a mother @#$%^$ at route speeds.... so I figure I might as well do the rest of what the FSM calls for...
my reason for posting is to simply gain from experience.... anyone done this themselves?? I have common sense and a FSM..... just wondering if there are any special tricks you guys might have come across when changing the bearings and ball joints.
thanks in advance
I just went though the same thing $$$. New tie rods, ball joints, bearings, hubs, rotors, control arms and even a outer rack and pinon bushing. I found out when I took out one of the control arms that the "bolt hole" hiddin behind the large washer had worn away to the size of a nickel. So even thow your arm bushing looks good and seems to be tight perhaps you have the same problem.....or your tires could have gotten cupped from wearing shocks. If you have this problem I will tell ya how I fixed it. And yes I did all the work myself. The front bearing can be a bitch, but I can walk you through it as well. Johno
absolutely! wright it up here so everyone can benefit from your experience... I think I'm gonna start tearing it apart friday morning, so I look forward to your info
Not a problem, If your finding that vibration just won't go away and you have manual steering, first check your Rack & Pinion bushing (passanger side) for wear. Its only made of plastic and when worn, the end of the rod gets very sloppy which can be felt at the steering wheel. http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanic...2/steering.htm
For the CONTROL ARMS, I wasted money here, Two new arms with bushings that weren't the problem. This is something you just can't wiggle by hand to see, becouse if it moves you would think your bushing are bad and their not. Remove the two control arm bolts and washers if any. "Inspect the mounting bolt holes" to see if their "larger" then the bolt itself. If so you have the same problem I had...The Fix, drop the arms completely. Get (2) thick washers (same dia as bolt), and spot weld into place centering with the bolt. If you don't have a welder...come on to the baby very tightly and get to a shop or you'll still have an alingment problem.
Once again I wasted money here, not because I didn't know what I was doing (life just sucks sometimes). As in any "bearing" inspection I could feel bearing movement when tires lifted off the ground. What comes to mind is that the bearings blown/worn..Possibly not.. After I got a new bearing 90.00 CAN, I re-installed and eveything seem fine for about 1 mile. On inspection again...still movement. It must be understood that in my mechanical mind harden steel should out last a bearing.."wrong". I found that the "hub shaft" itself was worn by only a "K" or so (Thats because the bearings inner race is a split bearing) which put wear on one end of the hub shaft. So back to toyota for a hub and another bearing. (more @#$&*^ cash). So if you want to save $$, check the hub shaft first after you rip things apart. You will have to buy the bearing anyways.
Note: The split bearing is very tight inside the steering knuckle and on the hub shaft. However, on the hub itself in a vice just heat up the inner bearing race and use grips to turn or punch to get off. Same as the steering knuckle, heat the sucker up and it will come out "in time". (just a little swearing). Remember to check the hub shaft with a mic, if not you may dubble your $$ like I did. Study the parts then use your "old" bearings to re-install your new ones. Heat only the steering knuckle so the outer race and half of the inner race go into place, then you'll be able to put on the other half of the race...Good Luck.
thanks for the info john... I have the electric-assist steering not manual, not good.... it might just end up costing me more $$$... did you ever have the problem where the tires would grab an imperfection in the road and pull in that direction?
That's a strong question, yes and no. I guess it depends on the size of the "say rut". I would think depending on kind of tires you have on IE, low profiles with large rims 18" or so, you would feel more. My kid changed from the standards to the 18" and put lowering springs in and we can feel almost everything. As I stated earlier, and I'm not sure about yours, the rack has the hex nut with a locking nut, when turned clockwise a tad it adds a little pressure to the rack which takes out some of that toooo easy, almost sloppy/loose steering feel. Almost like 4x4s have steering stablizers to help stop to pull in ether dirction?? Here check out your steering under "power steering" Save this link..It's as good as gold. http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanic...mechanical.htm
I looked over some of the electric assist info, and your system requires the correct pre-load as well or things could feel loose. Perhaps this is your overall problem. Going back to your last question about "grabbing an imperfection" this would be quite possible if your "control valve" preload is under specs allowing free movement of fluid. Exspecailly when hitting a rut or something. (Sorry about the spelling, I'm not a teacher).
Quote:
Originally Posted by MR-355-5sfTe
thanks for the info john... I have the electric-assist steering not manual, not good.... it might just end up costing me more $$$... did you ever have the problem where the tires would grab an imperfection in the road and pull in that direction?
I do currently have 40 series tires, and a lower stance.... but (for example) where a semi would sit at an intersection (warped lane) , or even the bleedin' reflection paint on the road lines..... if one of my tires hits that... I'm holding on for my life
also,
I have had some "Odd stuff" going on with my assisted steering.... every once and a while the check light will come on in the dash... I'll get out check the fluid then turn the car on again... and then everything's good...?? I might want to start pricing some equipment.... if all else fails I could swap to manual steering, I just like driving a car without all this "help".... seems like you get a better feel for things.
thanks again for the help john
Check light flickers now and then, Ya know, I think if your fluilds level is up all you really need is an over haul of the system. Are there any damp areas around the connections. It should be something your basically able to do and repair, at least taking it out. I'll bet if it hasn't been serviced before, it's just some air or wearing seals. It's a 50/50 chance, but I don't know whats cheaper. Re-build vice manual, if your state even allows that kind of change. You have it better down their then in Canada. No parts MR2s found here and we can only get parts fron the dealer $$$ if any. Put your cash into the PS Unit and all your steering problems will more then likly go away..Good Luck, Keep me posted on your efforts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MR-355-5sfTe
I do currently have 40 series tires, and a lower stance.... but (for example) where a semi would sit at an intersection (warped lane) , or even the bleedin' reflection paint on the road lines..... if one of my tires hits that... I'm holding on for my life
also,
I have had some "Odd stuff" going on with my assisted steering.... every once and a while the check light will come on in the dash... I'll get out check the fluid then turn the car on again... and then everything's good...?? I might want to start pricing some equipment.... if all else fails I could swap to manual steering, I just like driving a car without all this "help".... seems like you get a better feel for things.
thanks again for the help john
I've been looking over the car today... and have not noticed any problems with the PS pump or piston housing.... nothing's leaking or at least nothing is showing signs of leaking on the exterior....
now when you were talking about the control arm... I'm assuming you're talking about (what the manual calls) the "lower arm".... I've checked its bushings, and the larger one that holds it to the sub-frame is cracking all around itself... and is that the place where your bolt hole was worn out? I'm going to start pricing that specific bushing.... if they sell them individually. it seemed to be the only part showing wear so far... other than the steering boot.... need one of those as well.
Yes, the lower arms are of course the only arms as there are no uppers, just the struts. So what's cracking all around? the rubber bushing itself or your sub-frame hole area. Just to let ya know, and please tell me if it's different in the States. In Canada I "could not" order just the bushings by them selfs. If ya need bushings your going into new arms. And...due to them being classed as crash items "I" could only get them by speical order from Toyota. $188.00 CAN each. That's why it's a good idea to drop the arm right out of the sub frame mount to be sure if it's is indeed blown bushings.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MR-355-5sfTe
I've been looking over the car today... and have not noticed any problems with the PS pump or piston housing.... nothing's leaking or at least nothing is showing signs of leaking on the exterior....
now when you were talking about the control arm... I'm assuming you're talking about (what the manual calls) the "lower arm".... I've checked its bushings, and the larger one that holds it to the sub-frame is cracking all around itself... and is that the place where your bolt hole was worn out? I'm going to start pricing that specific bushing.... if they sell them individually. it seemed to be the only part showing wear so far... other than the steering boot.... need one of those as well.
it is just the rubber bushing that is cracked. I couldn't find any other problem areas.
as for just ordering the bushing in the states... I'm not too sure either. but I'll soon find out! I have noticed a loud rattle when I hit any kind of bump or hole in the road... now that I've listened to it....It sounds like it is higher up in the suspension components... almost like it's coming from the strut tower region? could there be bad bearings in the upper "suspension support".. the part with the four 14mm bolts that are bolted to the strut tower? I recently removed them and noticed some of the seals were beginning to rot. I'm just going to have to start replacing everything that isn't new! and that's everything
Save yourself some money and buy the TRD Bushing Set. It includes every bushing on the car front and rear and new strut tops. The strut tops alone are $120 EACH x 4!!! The TRD Bushing Kit is only $299.99. Sounds like an advertisement huh?
Low profile tires and lowered vehicles tend to "track" more often on uneven surfaces and on crowns in the road. Sucks, but that's the way it is. Though it shouldn't be as bad as you claim. You must be having other problems.
Do you have hub-centric rings on your wheels? They're supposed to come with them for proper fitment, but just making sure. Otherwise, worn suspension components and/or the inner tie rod/steering rack could be at fault. Worn outer tie rods mess up your alignment over time, i.e. you just got it aligned and 2 weeks later it's out of alignment for no reason. Ball joints generally cause instability, vibration, and/or swaying during driving. Worn struts can cause unnecessary vibrations and instability as well. Worn strut tops cause the infamous creaking over bumps. Generally, worn suspension bushings add slop to the car's ability to handle, but usually nothing too serious.
As for your odd P/S light issues, your P/S electric pump brushes might be worn out. This can cause a voltage drop and the ECU will send the signal to the P/S light in the instrument cluster. Use an OBD-I reader to see if you can get the code. This would throw a code 31, but would continue to supply power to the P/S system.
Good advice Jason,
For the strut rattle noise or clicks going over bumps my son had that problem and had to cut about 1.5" of rubber bushing off the top to accomidate the new lowing springs. When that was completed he heard every little rut/bump. He contacted the company and for 40.00 (rip off) they sent clear hose to go around the upper top close 4 or 5 spring rotations. These stopped all the chatter/noises. Best bet is just to find some hose and give them a spirole cut so they don't fall off. (If this is a problem) Also found noises coming from the headlight gearing in the down postion. (Gee...How do we know for sure the fridge light is out when the door is closed and why is there no light in the freezer) Boys and their toys.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 91MR2quickNA
Save yourself some money and buy the TRD Bushing Set. It includes every bushing on the car front and rear and new strut tops. The strut tops alone are $120 EACH x 4!!! The TRD Bushing Kit is only $299.99. Sounds like an advertisement huh?
Low profile tires and lowered vehicles tend to "track" more often on uneven surfaces and on crowns in the road. Sucks, but that's the way it is. Though it shouldn't be as bad as you claim. You must be having other problems.
Do you have hub-centric rings on your wheels? They're supposed to come with them for proper fitment, but just making sure. Otherwise, worn suspension components and/or the inner tie rod/steering rack could be at fault. Worn outer tie rods mess up your alignment over time, i.e. you just got it aligned and 2 weeks later it's out of alignment for no reason. Ball joints generally cause instability, vibration, and/or swaying during driving. Worn struts can cause unnecessary vibrations and instability as well. Worn strut tops cause the infamous creaking over bumps. Generally, worn suspension bushings add slop to the car's ability to handle, but usually nothing too serious.
As for your odd P/S light issues, your P/S electric pump brushes might be worn out. This can cause a voltage drop and the ECU will send the signal to the P/S light in the instrument cluster. Use an OBD-I reader to see if you can get the code. This would throw a code 31, but would continue to supply power to the P/S system.
I didn't even think about the springs rattling when I go over a bump.... but wouldn't that mean my struts aren't doing their job?...or just aren't designed for the weaker springs.... as for the bushing kit... would I be able to install them without a press? as I would hate to see the bill from ANY shop that has to pull ALL of the parts to replace the bushings....
and the headlight deal... (when they are up) I've noticed mine tend to bounce when I hit any kind of bump.... so they might also be making some noise when they are down.
just more to check when I have time.... I'll be sure to post what I find
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Fixes
(Sorry about the spelling, I'm not a teacher).
That's why it's a good idea to drop the arm right out of the sub frame mount to be sure if it's is indeed blown bushings.
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