Quote:
Originally Posted by clattin
Hey guys,
I'm a newbie to heavy duty DIY repairs and I've recently purchased a 93 Truck 4X4 Auto V6 that I'm going to tackle as a project. I've read some of the sticky's on different repairs, but thought I'd make a post about the truck, some of the problems that I'm aware of and struggles that I've had making repairs.
Would love any input that may be helpful to me! Keep in mind, previously, the only kind of repairs I've made to vehicles are pretty minor....plugs, wires, distributer cap, oil, alternator, etc. Never tackled anything very major and don't know a tremendous amount about engines and transmissions, but am anxious to learn. I have a Haynes manual and have downloaded the FSM for the truck as well.
Here's the list that I know about:
1. Starts but idles kinda rough. The engine will run for about 10 minutes and then die. It will start back up but only run a few minutes before dying. May be alternator related. I recently replaced the alternator as it wasn't charging the battery properly. When I have my battery charger connected to the battery and set to "alternator" it displays 85% initially and then drops to 75% after a couple of minutes. It does display about 14v when first started. The belt seems to be tight enough (about 1/2" deflection) and the alternator isn't making any funny noises.
2. Getting a 42 error code which appears to be related to the vehicle speed sensor. I know NOTHING about this....haven't looked into it at all yet, just got the code.
3. Fuel Guage stays on empty. I've been told its probably a fuel sending unit issue or wiring issue. Haven't done any troubleshooting yet. Thought I might just replace the fuel tank and in doing so replace the fuel sending unit. Have NEVER tackled anything that difficult before, but I know its tricky business!
4. Right front CV boot torn-Have no idea how to replace, but figured I could find out in the FSM
5. O/D light flashing.....no idea what thats about.
6. The fan control lever on the A/C panel doesn't move freely. Maybe just a connection issue behind the dash as all the other levers appear to work properly. Is there a way to pull that without pulling the whole dash?
7. Was told the plugs and wires were replaced just prior to me purchasing the truck, but do you think I should just go ahead and replace plugs/wires/cap/rotor anyway? I've heard that I should use Toyota wires.
8. Front fenders both have rusting around the wheel well. Thought I might just get some new fenders for about $40 each and paint them or wondered if I could just cut the rusted portion off and use some aftermarket fender flares. Thoughts?
Well, that's all I can think of offhand. I hope to continue to update this thread with updates, problems, etc. Feel free to chime in......especially with where to get certain parts, etc! I've seen the thread with all the salvage yards and parts suppliers, just thoughts you might see something on here that jumps out at you as to a good spot to get it.
Thanks!
Chris
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We all gotta start somwhere
1. starting rough can be from lack of fuel or weak spark. Your alt should't have anything to do with the truck stalling out. As long as you're getting around 14.7v when the truck is running, and over 12v when the truck is off your alt and battery are fine.
2. look up the code in the fsm and see what it says, I can't remember what it is
3. anything fuel tank related is a bitch, corrosion can turn it into an absolute nightmare. The gauge could be bad, the wiring or the sender. There are ways to test them, look in your fsm
(and throw the haynes away, it wont help haha)
4. Is a longer job, but not that bad. Remove the hub (or add flange), 12mm bolt and c-clip. Unbolt the 17mm nuts on the cv shaft (the bolts are splined so you dont have to hold them). Jack up the opposite rear corner and put it on a stand, then jack up the lower control arm on the side you're working on. AS you jack it up the hub will move out slightly, and this should give you enough room to slip the whole axle out.
Once the axle is out you can replace the boot. If the boot has been torn for awhile and all the grease has been slung out, a new or good used axle is what you need.
5. that means the o/d computer has codes, pull them and see whats up
6. My vent selector used to pop off and get cought in the cup holder. Sometimes the wires just come out, or the plastic peice that holdes the cables will wear out and let the outer part of the cable move with the inner cable. A used part will fix it.
to get at it, pull off the key surround (it pops in), remove the vent selector knobs, and using a small flathead, pry the passenger side of the vent selctor plate up. Don't be scared, it will bend and then pop out. Then remove the plate and a/c button.
Then remove the upper dash surround. Remove the top of the bottom panel under the steering wheel, this part sandwiches the upper black dash part in.
Then remove the two screws that go up (in front of the cluster) into the dashpad, and finally remove the single screw in the upper right corner of the vent selector area.
Then pop that whole panel out and unclip your hazzard switch and any other switches.
once thats all out (should take you no longer than 25mins easy) you can easily see where all the vent selctor cables are mounted.
7. A fresh tuneup is always a good idea. And yes, Denso (toyota) ignition parts are the best you can get, and yes they do make a difference compaired to other brands.
Do plugs, wires, cap, rotor and a new paper air filter. Keep the old wires and stuff in the truck for trail spares
8. You could cut out the rust and put flares on, but you will have to replace the part of the fender you cut out. There are no 'cut out' flares for our trucks.
I would replace the fenders and get them sprayed to match your paint.
Hope that helps
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