First of all thanks for understanding I'm usually in the Tacoma forum but recently aquired this old '73 corona and posted it there,but figured that I'll post this here also ( older gen. of trucks)as the brake system should be similar in all toyotas of certain years. With that said please read on and I appriciate any help at all.
On my 1973 corona 2 D hardtop, automatic, 18RC ....
I completely redone the brake system , rebuilt caliper kits,new rear wheel cylinders lines,etc.(this has a single fluid resivoir)
While starting from the farthest point Driver rear i didnt get any fluild back to the brakes,,the resivoir remained full,,so i started from the front and the front D and P side are done...Do i need to prime the master brake cylinder?? i saw a bleed valve (i believe) on the side of it.I tried a couple sites on bleeding the system but nothing helped..So in other words i cant bleed the rear brakes but the front is done. Can someone help me on the correct procedure...Thanks
Ok, the only thing i could think of was the master brake..so i did "bleed it" and then i finally got fluid back to my rear brakes..as of now all lines are "airless" and all brakes do work...but...
1)How i bled the brake cylinder was this way..had the pedal pressed all the way down,opened the valve and fluild did gradually come out...pumped it up and repeated it a couple times..but like i say a little came out each time...
2) the brake pedal did get stiffer but it goes about 70% of the way down..the brakes do lock up though.. i was thinking that the brake pedal should only go about 40-50% of the way down.
was this the correct way to bleed the master brake cylinder and if it is correct ..can i adjust the pedal back to about half way?
You can probably youtube a master cylinder bleed procedure but I think it usually requires removing the line(s) going out and replacing it(them) with a line bent up and back into the top opening of the cylinder. Then you pump it bunches of times cycling the fluid until there's no air. Usually this is only needed if it's a new master cylinder and you can do it before even installing it. As for the others, always start at the farthest one away from the master cylinder. Usually it's right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Personally I like to have at least 2 people and 3 is better. (There are tools/kits available to make it a one man operation) Use one to watch/refill the master cylinder, one to pump the brake and the 3rd to open and close the bleed valve and/or watch the hose in the jar of clean fluid for air bubbles. As the brake is being pressed he opens the valve letting fluid run into the jar. As the 'pumper' reaches the bottom of travel the valve is closed before the brake is let up. After it's closed the brake pedal is released and the procedure repeated until there is NO air at all. This can take some time because the air may be coming all the way from the master cylinder and there may be times when no air is seen but then another pocket comes thru. Repeat in the correct order for each wheel. The clean fluid in the jar can make closing the bleed valve each time unnecessary as the hose sucks up fluid when the pedal comes back up rather than more air but for a troublesome problem opening and closing the valve may be best. FWIW IMHO and all that. Good luck.
Since you posted this in the truck forum I'll give you the truck answer.
Proper bleeding order is LR, RR, RF, LR, LSPV (which the car shouldn't have).
If you do all this bleeding and get no air, you're probably done.
How does it stop?
fourwd1-After I read your first line "Since you posted this in the truck forum I'll give you the truck answer". I started laughing.. I though you where gonna say. To stop, find the closest solid object, its a truck, they're tough". I did bleed it in order and i believe yes it does have a LSPV, its on the firewall,actually i did bleed the MB and got a trickle of fluid to come out then i bled the system again and got fluid to the rear. When i drove it, it seemed i had to apply a good firm amount of pressure on the brakes to stop. On the rear brakes,the brake adjustment gear, i adjusted to jus rub on the drums. They are self adjusting right? If not i was thinking of adjusting them more to where they'll rub harder. Also i was thinking,since the lines where empty,even after bleeding a couple times they still may have air pockets, but I've bled it about 4-5 times already.
Since you posted this in the truck forum I'll give you the truck answer.
Proper bleeding order is LR, RR, RF, LR, LSPV (which the car shouldn't have).
If you do all this bleeding and get no air, you're probably done.
How does it stop?
Always knew there was a proper order... Is LF 4th, or 1st ?
Towynhawaii : They have to be adjusted well, or very hard to get the air out. Also check to see if you dont have a very slight leak anywhere.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Dedicated forum for the Toyota Pickup (Hilux)
SEARCH before asking
Linear Mode
