'86 22r fuel issue?

[Tenedas]

I recently purchased a low-miles engine from engine and transmission world, and finally got it installed. I've driven it for 2 days now and every time I crack the second barrel on the carburetor the truck loses all power then catches up and does this constantly as long as i keep the throttle down. I've checked the timing with a timing light, and i had the distributor turned all the way counterclock-wise which did mostly stop the lurching motion but it was way out of time. when i have it timed properly (on the 0 mark) it loses ALL power. what is going on

Only loses power when under load

[Tenedas]

Done more research online and some testing. I've found information on this forum somewhere (lost to me now) that I have to disconnect the hoses from the vacuum advance to time it properly, I don't have to plug it because I don't have HAC (correct?), set it to 0, and then when I reconnect the vacuum hoses it should advance to 5. It doesn't do this, and somewhere else I found info that says when it is properly timed and you are revving it should advance to 12. It doesn't advance nearly that far, it gets partially towards the 5. I've checked if the VAC can hold vacuum and it can't either way so I'm assuming that also needs replaced and my dad has a spare from the old engine that hopefully isn't shot....
Also, I replaced the mechanical fuel pump with an electric one since my dad claims that the mechanical ones go out at the worst of times. However, I'm wondering if I'm creating enough fuel pressure because the fuel level in sight glass is low. Dad says it could be a plugged fuel filter and I've been searching online and on my truck to find it he says it should be on the frame rail passenger side but I can't see anything. Any advice please?

[Rh1n0_86OneTon]

There is a window in the center of the glass between two flat points. As long as the gas is in that window you are OK. A fuel pressure gauge is only $12 or so. A "T" fitting and a couple of pieces of hose and you can check what the pressure is at the carb. Use hose clamps if you use English measurement tubing. Most likely the float is out of adjustment as it sets the fuel level. The diaphragms in the dizzy's are notorious for going bad. It is actually cheaper to get a replacement distributor than to buy just the vacuum advance unit. www.rockauto.com
Plug the lines when you time. They still represent a vacuum leak when open and will lean out the mixture some. On fuel pumps: 300K miles and three fuel pumps. One the day after I got it home - it was NEW mind you (the truck), one when I was 600+ miles from home visiting family - cracked the body and was leaking gas down the front of the motor. Borrowed tools and spent an afternoon swapping before my 600+ mile return trip, and this last one right after the rebuild because putting an old one on instead of a $35 new one would just be silly. I have actually changed out more electric ones than mechanical and that's 30 or so years of messing around with cars. YMMV. Hope this helps.

[fourwd1]

Did the carb come with the new motor or is a known good carb from the old motor?
Have you replaced the fuel filter? If not, do it.

[Johnclave777]

I think there is some installation problem