Thanks for that info.... interesting story. I guess it proves how maturity really helps in the long run. I myself thrashed my old VL so hard that it ended up in the graveyard.... but that was the YOUNG me.
nyways... i attemted to install the boost gauge today. Frustrating.
i got the vacumn line through the firewall etc. But nothing shows on the gauge. I haven't hooked up the electrical as i think i have a faulty gauge. It vibrates when boost kicks in as if a screw or something is loose.
Thanks for that info.... interesting story. I guess it proves how maturity really helps in the long run. I myself thrashed my old VL so hard that it ended up in the graveyard.... but that was the YOUNG me.
nyways... i attemted to install the boost gauge today. Frustrating.
i got the vacumn line through the firewall etc. But nothing shows on the gauge. I haven't hooked up the electrical as i think i have a faulty gauge. It vibrates when boost kicks in as if a screw or something is loose.
I just need any vacumn line right?
Yep, all you require is a good vacuum source, however the safest place to use is the line for the BOV (should just be sitting there with a bung in it since you're not running a BOV anymore). As long as the gauge is getting vacuum it should work. Make sure there are no kinks in the hose that you ran through the firewall as this will cause the gauge to sit on 0 (happened to my brother's one once). I'd suggest directly hooking up the gauge to the BOV vacuum line and it if it still doesn't work then it is most definitely faulty.
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well it was definately faulty. the gaug is fine now. BUT...............
I noticed as soon as we ran the line for the gauge, the idle isn't good. You remember the larger sized vacumn ose that we took out of the airbox and put a stocking on? that has less suction power now.
I took off the t piece and it worked fine. The gauge reads vacumn etc when hooked up. But the car has lost power and the gauge is reading 6psi at best. if my line is kinked, it couldn't possible cause this idle problem could it?
well it was definately faulty. the gaug is fine now. BUT...............
I noticed as soon as we ran the line for the gauge, the idle isn't good. You remember the larger sized vacumn ose that we took out of the airbox and put a stocking on? that has less suction power now.
I took off the t piece and it worked fine. The gauge reads vacumn etc when hooked up. But the car has lost power and the gauge is reading 6psi at best. if my line is kinked, it couldn't possible cause this idle problem could it?
Hmm, sounds like you've got a vacuum leak. Which vacuum line have you hooked up the boost gauge to? If you use the line originally used by the BOV you shouldn't require a t piece at all.
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Ok, idle has some how managed to fix itself and sit a lot better. it sits exactly on the same RPM as it use to.
i did have it on the BOV line originally but thought that was the cause...... it now sits on that line but straight off the engine. Just for the record it was doing the same thing no mater where i put the t pice. even remoing the t piece and gauge, it still seems to be a little less powered.
When i let off throttle, it doesn't flutter straight away anymore. The difference is minute but enough for me to notice it. Also, it feels as though boost kicks in slightly later, like when i had the air box on and with less mmmff if you know what i mean.
When Hammering the car, it reads the following on the boost gauge.
1st gear = 11psi
2nd gear = 12psi
3rd gear = 13psi
So although the boost gauge and boost may be ok, i would bet a whole lot of money it be producing less kW on a dyno right now than it did last week.
I don't know what to do. i have checked all my lines etc. would a vacumn leak cause this?
Good to hear that your idle has returned to normal. As for the lack of power, you may have a boost leak. Make sure that all of the hose clamps on the silicone joiners are as tight as possible, and that the pipes are securely sitting inside the joiners. Fitting a CAI will cause you to lose a small amount of low end power as the air has to travel further before reaching the turbo due to the length of the piping, but you'll gain more mid-range and top end power. On my brother's Caldina he noticed the turbo was more responsive throughout the power band and the top end 'pull' increased. If yours seems like it's down on power then a leak is certainly possible. A cold air intake will always yield more power over the factory air box, unless of course the filter is blocked.
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ok i can't even begin to explain the situations i have had.
all i can say is that i need to fix one more thing. before i show off some pics and vids to you. it is flying now and sounds awesome.
The tiptronic system is still playing up. In auto the car runs fine. as soon as u go to manual tiptronic, it goes into lock up in 3rd and 4th gear and wont jump out of lock up. i have been to the auto transmission guys and they have tried a few things...... No charge....Good guys..... They reffered me to their Auto elec who has offered to snip out the lock up wire from the wiring in the auto transmission completely. Quick and easy fix. i am happy to have no lock up as i am a hard driver anyways. might actually do it some good.
The problem is, they have asked me to find the wiring diagram to save costs, and because they arent good with import diagrams. Can anyone get me the wiring diagram for the auto transmission on my 1998 ST215W Caldina GT-T.
A few weeks ago I made and installed a custom cold air intake for my brother's 1998 Caldina GT-T. It made a noticeable difference in performance and now makes an awesome fluttering noise when easing off the throttle. I'd recommend it to everyone with a 3S-GTE engine. He originally had a K&N panel filter in the stock airbox but this does a much better job. There also doesn't seem to be any hesitation/lag from the turbo anymore after this install.
If anyone wants me to write a DIY just let me know. Here are some photos (it was hard to take a photo of where the pod filter sits under the front bumper, but it's protected from the rain and gets excellent airflow due to the round hole cut in the plastic splash tray) -
hey mate just done bov and intake to my car what did you do to the vacume line that went to the airbox and the other one near the turbo that went into the intake i have came to a speed bump
The Following User Says Thank You to caldinamad For This Useful Post:
i need help on where to put the vacume line that went to the air box beside the standed bov. but now ive put a hks one in and a bung in where the standed bov was so what do i do with the tube that left still suckin air when now its got no presure to suck up and when i block it my car stalls. And what to do with the other one closer down to the turbo. help would make my week not having my caldina has been getin me down .... lolz
i need help on where to put the vacume line that went to the air box beside the standed bov. but now ive put a hks one in and a bung in where the standed bov was so what do i do with the tube that left still suckin air when now its got no presure to suck up and when i block it my car stalls. And what to do with the other one closer down to the turbo. help would make my week not having my caldina has been getin me down .... lolz
You should only have two hoses leading to the factory airbox - One small one which is the vacuum source for the stock BOV and one larger one that goes to the bottom of the throttle body. Use the smaller one for your aftermarket BOV and put a screen (such as a stocking) over the larger one, allowing it to sit in the engine bay. You don't need the screen, but it will prevent anything getting sucked in there.
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I just bought a 1997 Caldina GTT. Its got a fully standard 3SGTE engine with a manual gearbox. Im wanting to maybe do this CAI to it.. how much did it cost for all the pipeing etc? im living in Wellington, New Zealand.
That looks very nice. I'm planning to do the same to my Caldina so any tips on how to do it is welcome. I have Apexi filter in engine bay and there's not much cold air.
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