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Rod knock isn't a rod failure problem, its a bearing failure. My bet is your engine has had oil problems sometime during it's life.
Even the best engine will fail if it can't get proper lubrication, its no indication of how solid the engine is compared to another.
As for your power concerns, go ahead and have the heads worked over by an experienced machinist. A full rebuild + valve work + porting shouldn't be a budget breaker but ask for a quote first. One tip though, it aint gonna be cheap for quality work, so don't act like you are at a damn wal mart when talking to machinists, they will skimp you on work if you try to talk them down in price.
As for tuning, honestly the 1mz factory doesn't run particularly rich or lean even with some decent mods. The best thing you can do as far as tuning goes is switch to a megasquirt standalone. But then you have to spend a lot of time setting that up, and you cannot adjust your ignition timing (which is where the power is at) until you are on a dyno and have sufficient knock detection.
Want my advice, go for the head work, clean the lower and upper intake up a bit with some light porting, put it all back together and enjoy the better running/sounding/pulling engine that the 1mz can be. Otherwise you are looking at big bucks to go fast.
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Originally Posted by Tony the Tiger
I mod my Camry because I am too cheap to go out and buy a real sports car  |
1992 Camry XLE v6: p&p + 3angle, CAI, y pipe, K-Sport coilovers, 5-speed swap
1996 Eagle Talon TSI AWD: IPT 3700 restall, DSMlink v3, HKS exhaust, ETS street fmic kit
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