Got my Yaris Hatchback 5 speed a few weeks back. The problem I am having is that at the top of the gas pedal there is about 1/2" of play. This makes coordination of starting out/shifting quite difficult. I didn't have this problem on the HB that I test drove. When I first got the car I was stalling it out @ 5 times a day but now just @ once every other day. I am finding that I've started to rev a bit before starting out. I'm not new to 5 speeds as I drove my Geo Metro for 11 years and 211,000 miles before it got totalled out on 5/22/06. I haven't taken it to the dealer as yet as they are @ 60 miles away. Has anyone else experienced this? Have a fix?
Also the engine doesn't seem to 'rev down' very quickly when shifting. Makes for some pretty sloppy shifts.
Did you check the slack where the throttle cable is connected to the throttle. In the Echo you can adjust it by adjusting the nuts the hold the end of the throttle cable (move it farther from the throttle). It may be the same for the Yaris.
Good luck.
It took me a good month to get used to the clutch on my 07 CE Hatchback. I have had 5 speed cars before , but this one was tough to get used to. The revs are made to stay high automatically between shifts and the clutch was extremely sensitive at low speeds. Now with 14,000 KM it goes amazing.
Another off topic subject I notice and have confirmed with 2 other owners is cold starting. When it is cold out (0 deg C or so) when I turn the key and it doesen't start right away, I let go of the key to try again, but it doesn't stop turning over until it starts on its own. The first time it happened I thought it was a defect with the ignition, but the dealer confirmed that the car is made that way to aviod flooding the engine, since people tend to give gas when the car doesn't start right away.
Last edited by FreightShaker; 12-24-2006 at 01:37 PM.
I believe the old Yaris was cable operated and the new one is electronic.
I haven't noticed any play, in my gas pedal, but these electronic pedal takes some getting used to, since they seem to have a mind of their own.
I consider myself quite adapt at driving a manual, but it took awhile for me to become comfortable with the Yaris's 5spd. I think the problem is because the clutch is a little 'grabby' when new and the car doesn't have much initial take-off torque. So, a bit of over revving is required to keep it from stalling. But don't fear, this problem seems to go away on its own. Probably because the engine become a little more responsive after being broken in (more usable initial power) and the clutch isn't as 'grabby' after it's got some wear and tear on it. My 5dr liftback now has 32,000km on it and clutch take-up has become almost as intuitive as my old 98 Civic Hatch.
I believe the old Yaris was cable operated and the new one is electronic.
I haven't noticed any play, in my gas pedal, but these electronic pedal takes some getting used to, since they seem to have a mind of their own.
I consider myself quite adapt at driving a manual, but it took awhile for me to become comfortable with the Yaris's 5spd. I think the problem is because the clutch is a little 'grabby' when new and the car doesn't have much initial take-off torque. So, a bit of over revving is required to keep it from stalling. But don't fear, this problem seems to go away on its own. Probably because the engine become a little more responsive after being broken in (more usable initial power) and the clutch isn't as 'grabby' after it's got some wear and tear on it. My 5dr liftback now has 32,000km on it and clutch take-up has become almost as intuitive as my old 98 Civic Hatch.
dang PARS 32,000km CONGRATS DUDE tell me when did you get your baby again and have you been keeping on top of the maintenance schedule
I got my Yaris about 6 month ago and have the big 32,000km maintenance service coming up. It's going to cost me over $500 which is too much. So, I'm gonna have to grill the dealership and see if they can come up with a better price that will cover the required maintenance stuff. I don't care for the extras, like the brake fluid flush and inspection. So, hopefully I can get a better price.
I just had the 32,000km service this morning. Total cost was $180 (including tax) which is a lot less then the original $500 quote (perhaps the service guy made a mistake with the original quote, cause it did seem over priced at the time).
I'm alot harder on the clutch them most. Plus, reving matching when downshift is still not perfect, so I tend to burn more clutch then I normally would. I think it's cause the electronic pedal is a little slow for extremely quick shifting and the gas pedal isn't linear (or has its own agenda). End result, My clutch has already lost it's bite as 32,000km. Hopefully it'll last as long as my old 98 Civic's clutch. I put 300,000km on that car and sold it with the original clutch.
so how is your baby running now Pars better then ever
It's running very well. Everything still feels good. Battle scars include 2 stone chips on the bottom right of the windshield, another fairly large one on the bumper, 5 inch long scratch on one of the lower skirts, 2 inch keyed on the passenger door, right front hubcap completely scratched up with pieces of it missing. My poor Beater can use some babying, but I'm optimistic the car is as tough as they come.
I also have several ( 10+) chips on hood and roof. Also scratched the paint up pretty good when washing with a pressure hose ( oil and rocks on the hose scuffed the door abit). I have a rust spot on a roof chip already, although I work at a chemical plant and the dust is not good for metal. Ill get around to filling that in one of these days. My right front hub cap is also scuffed to shit.
I wont get into what my windshield looks like, although my gas pedal is firmly attached.
Pars, re the servicing:did they replace the cabin air filter? My dealer said its optional, and wasn't intially installed in my car. I asked after my 16k service was cheaper than I expected ( maint menu supplied by dealer gives service costs). Its over $50 to have installed so I am going to pass. Did you dealer mention this, or did you prefer to have it installed?
Yep, I had the Cabin filter installed for about $55 which brought the total price to about $180. The service guy just said it was part of the required maintenance and I decided not to call him on it.
According to the owner manual the Filter will need changing, if the windows fogs up even when the air vent is set to 'fresh' mode. Since winter is here, keeping the windows from fogging up is going to be a priority.
I've found that the windows will still fog up, unless I keep the fan funning (and in sever situations, I'll need to use the AC or open the window). I had a full load of passenger in the car for the last few days and didn't need to use the AC to defog the windows, but did need to keep the fan running.
I usually run the fan at speed 3 to keep the windows clear ( and drown out the snow tire roar ) . I am also dilligent about clearing the cabin air intake of snow/ice before setting off. The intake is pretty prominent, and perhaps holds pockets of rain water, causing you to suck in moist air.
I had assumed the filter was for particulates ( soot, dust etc ). Scummy windows will also fog faster than clean ones. But the filter won't do much for sucking water in the air intake.
Pars: man 32000Km is alot.....geez......but highway miles is not that bad i think
mine is only at 12,000km and my car is 10 months old. and i already replaced my bumper...plenty of scracthes all around......and my routine meguiars waxing and polishing routine is getting less often. less motivated when i see those scracthes.
I usually run the fan at speed 3 to keep the windows clear ( and drown out the snow tire roar ) . I am also dilligent about clearing the cabin air intake of snow/ice before setting off. The intake is pretty prominent, and perhaps holds pockets of rain water, causing you to suck in moist air.
I had assumed the filter was for particulates ( soot, dust etc ). Scummy windows will also fog faster than clean ones. But the filter won't do much for sucking water in the air intake.
True, keeping the inside of those windows clean is half the battle. I've got a package of
Windex Wipes in the glovebox and a role of paper towel under the passenger seat. A quick pass with Wipes followed by the paper towel to dry up the excess is an easy way to keep the dust/grime off the inside glass.
We're getting record braking high temperature here in Toronto, but when we do get some snow, I'll make sure to keep the intake vents clear. I believe they're directly outside of the front windshield?
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tell me when did you get your baby again
and have you been keeping on top of the maintenance schedule 
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