I heard from my friends that I need to change oil during break-in period at about 2000~3000km. But I called dealer they told me I only need to change oil when it's 8000km.
is it necessary to change oil now? Really confused.
I recommend changing your oil now and switching to a full synthetic plus a top quality oil filter like Mobil 1 filters or a Purolator Pure One filter. Then change every 5,000 miles. I also recommend replacing your manual transmission gear oil with Redline MT-90 if your driving a 5 speed. Don't be confused by "synthetic blends" use only Mobil 1 or if you have the money buy Redline Synthetic motor oil. I plan on getting well over 300,000 miles on my car by simply using top quality filters and lubricants. The engine is basically maintenance free the first 100,000 miles.
I heard from my friends that I need to change oil during break-in period at about 2000~3000km. But I called dealer they told me I only need to change oil when it's 8000km.
is it necessary to change oil now? Really confused.
I am doing my first oil change around 5 to 6000km than I will follow the maintenance manual to a tee
When we bought the wifes Echo in November we changed the oil at 3000 k's and I changed the oil in my 06 Corolla at 2700 k's. No you don't have to but I wanted my engine to be free of all the crap that stays in the engine after it was built. Oh and I change my oil in both cars between 5 and 6 thousand k's because I find the oil gets to dark if left for the full 8000 k's.
But this is just what I do and most guys have thier own opinion on when to change oil. A person I know had a 2000 Echo and she put over 425,000 k's on her car doing in town deliveries with all the starting and stopping she does she only changed her oil THREE times a year and when the car was sold it still ran fine and didn't smoke..
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My Cars, 2006 Corolla CE, 2003 Corolla LE
how many Kms should I be able to o with a 2003 echo with valvoline full synthetic? 8, 9, 10000km?
__________________ 2006 Chevy Colorado 4X4 ext cab 2.8L (mine) 2003 Toyota Echo Sedan grey 462000kms(wife's)
1995 Toyota Tercel 2 Dr Black (burnt valve, gone)1993 Toyota Tercel 4 DR (gone) www.canadiankrazymods.com
Every car I have owned I changed my oil every 5000KM's, that is through all the seasons and my average trade in KM's have been between 500000 to 650000...yes I keep my cars on avaerage for 15 years, and always used dinosaur oil. I would change my oil after the first 1000KM's, not because of break in but because you don't know how long the motor was sitting before it was assembled into the car...it could have picked up some humidity...etc I would recommend staying away from synthetic oil until at least 10000km, and the reason I say this is that Toyotra states that you should be getting the full rated gas mileage out of the car by 8000KM...so that is telling me that the motor is fully broken in by then...synthetic will not allow motors to break in properly....at least that has been my experiances with my motorcycles and I always use OEM filters...again you could discuss the advantages or disadvantages of oil and filter types\changes until we are old men\women.....
Here is some good info on oil filters: THERE IS A DIFFERENCE. OEM filters are average at best. They certainly aren't Fram garbage but they are not the quality of most better filters. Note that the "low budget" oil filter available at Wal Mart is very high quality. IMHO buy FULL SYNTHETIC and use PUROLATOR PURE 1 FILTERS OR MOBIL 1 FILTERS. This way you know your protected.
I'm trying to get away from changing the oil all the time in my wife's echo, she travels from saint John to Fredericton and back every weekday, she already has 180000kms on it. So I thought switching to full synthetic would reduce my oil changes.
__________________ 2006 Chevy Colorado 4X4 ext cab 2.8L (mine) 2003 Toyota Echo Sedan grey 462000kms(wife's)
1995 Toyota Tercel 2 Dr Black (burnt valve, gone)1993 Toyota Tercel 4 DR (gone) www.canadiankrazymods.com
I recommend changing your oil now and switching to a full synthetic plus a top quality oil filter like Mobil 1 filters or a Purolator Pure One filter. Then change every 5,000 miles. I also recommend replacing your manual transmission gear oil with Redline MT-90 if your driving a 5 speed. Don't be confused by "synthetic blends" use only Mobil 1 or if you have the money buy Redline Synthetic motor oil. I plan on getting well over 300,000 miles on my car by simply using top quality filters and lubricants. The engine is basically maintenance free the first 100,000 miles.
You need to let the engine completely brake-in before switching to synthetic. I've found that usually occurs at around 20,000km. Also, orginal/intial oil in your car (especially japanese) are usually specially formulated for breaking in the engine. So, changing them early may pro-long the break in period.
In my case, prematurely dumping the break-in oil isn't a big factor since I managed to put 10,000km in a month. But, if you're doing only do 15000km in a year, you'd better capalize on the brake-in oil. Otherwise, you might find that your car will take over a year before it finally frees-up enought to return ultimate fuel economy/mileage.
Pars, does Toyota place this "break in" oil in there cars? Every dealer I talked to looked at me like I had 2 heads...and stated that the Honda oil was BS....but Honda does stay true to there info and will confirm to me that they place special oil in the car...what it is, is unknown but they say they do it......I never thought Toyota did the same....could this be an urban myth? I purchase oil at work and all the big oil companies tell me it's BS but Honda insists.....so other than Moly what could this be?
I also agree about your comments on the synthetic but never have gone as high as 20000KM before switching over...again my experiance has always been with motorcycles. The oil clearly states not to use on engines that are not broken in right on the bottles...
I can tell you this: The big "concern" is that the piston rings won't seat properly if you use synthetic too soon. IMHO its a myth in todays engines. I changed to full synthetic at 2000 miles on my 1.5 liter Yaris and now have over 8000 miles on it. It has not burned A SINGLE DROP OF OIL. If the rings had not properly seated I would be goinf thru quarts of oil. It certainly doesn't hurt to wait awhile before switching, I used to as well. But the fact of the matter is that many of todays engines come with full synthetic from the factory and these engines are NOT broken in prior to leaving the factory. Case in point: The Corvette.
Interesting SlaveToTheNeed!, I always thought that piston rings would seat in the first 20-50KM's of engine operation. With race bikes after the engine is assembled they rev the hell out of the engine...the theary is that you place as much load on a new engine as you feasily can (without damage) to provide allot of cylinder pressure, which in turn pushes the rings against the cylinder walks and allows the two to mate properly....hense the theary that engines that are pushed when new will last longer because they will pocess less blow by....then again I have seen pushed engines burning oil so........
I can tell you this: The big "concern" is that the piston rings won't seat properly if you use synthetic too soon. IMHO its a myth in todays engines. I changed to full synthetic at 2000 miles on my 1.5 liter Yaris and now have over 8000 miles on it. It has not burned A SINGLE DROP OF OIL. If the rings had not properly seated I would be goinf thru quarts of oil. It certainly doesn't hurt to wait awhile before switching, I used to as well. But the fact of the matter is that many of todays engines come with full synthetic from the factory and these engines are NOT broken in prior to leaving the factory. Case in point: The Corvette.
It'd be cool if you're keeping track of your gas mileage. Granted, piston seal might not be at risk, but fuel consumption should show some tell-tale signs. What kind of fuel consumption are you getting on the Yaris? My 07 Manual Yaris has 14,000km and I'm getting about 6.3L/100km with regular driving and 6.8 with aggressive driving. I'm tempted to switch over to Mobel-1 for my next oil change, but their costly, so I might go with the regular stuff for awhile more.
It is interesting the lack of info from auto manufactures in how to break in a new engine. One would think given the millions of engines they each produce, they could supply detailed info on the process. The major oil manufactures state synthetic oil can be used from day one and not cause a break-in problem. All engines burn oil, as no engine cylinder is 100% sealed. This also results in oil contamination due to blow-by.
I am driving the 4 door US sedan with the 1.5 liter motor 5 speed. I get 42-43 MPG highway AS LONG AS I DRIVE BETWEEN 2-3 THOUSAND RPM. In day to day stop and go driving with my wifes big arse in the car I still get 36-38 MPG. Very impressive. Its the WAY you drive that determines your best gas mileage. I have heard these myths for almost 10 years now and I pay no attention to them. Check out this site: http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
These guys know what they are talking about. Synthetic oils are by far the best way to go. The problem is all the MISINFORMATION thats out there. IMHO all you need to do is stick with FULL SYNTHETIC (not blends) and use a PURE ONE OR MOBIL 1 FILTER.
Here is another site about oil filters:
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than I will follow the maintenance manual to a tee 
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