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#1 Old 05-09-2008, 09:56 PM
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Yaris Oil Change DIY

Even though this is a pretty easy exercise, I guess I must still put a disclaimer:

ToyotaNation and RningOnFumes are not responsible for any damages acquired while in the process of performing the following directions during or after the Oil change. Please be prepared and follow the directions. Again the author of this DIY and ToyotNation are not responsible for any actions you take which may cause damage to your car.
1.Prepare
2.Read
3.Follow

If you can't handle an oil change...get to know your mechanic well.
Quote:
**If this is the car's very first change, it is suggested you take it to the dealor or whomever, Toyota tends to almost literally weld their oil filters on. Because they are over tightened from the factory, you may have problems taking it off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by toad View Post
word of advice - you might want to try to loosen the filter FIRST before you drain the oil pan. just make sure you can get the filter turning(don't unscrew all the way or you'll have a mess) before draining all the oil out of the car in case you have to take it to the quick-lube place to have them take the filter off for you. don't ask how i know this
**Great advice !
A. If at this point, you are still adamant about doing the oil and oil filter change your self..... You may wish to skip to the Oil Filter section (2) if you have a very new vehicle--(first oil filter change since the factory). This will allow you to see if you can get the oil filter off on your own. If you can not for any reason, you still have the option of then going to the dealer or an outside shop because you still have oil for which to run the engine on.**




LAST WARNING (about the filter)....AND HERE WE GO! GOODLUCK!!
1. Buy supplies.
1. Oil: The cap says 5W30, there is a TSB that states you can use 5W20. I went with 5W20 to stay under warranty. You can go lower or higher. When to go any lower or higher, it will depend on your climate and driving pattern. Remember though, stay within Toyota recommendations for warranty purposes.
2. Oil Filter: Size Mobil M1-103 OR Toyota 90915-YZZF2 DENSO (made in Thailand) OR if you can find it: Nippon Denso 90915-10003 or 4 (Made in Japan) -which is a much better quality than the Denso. Or find the brand you like in the appropriate size. As for other brands, you can try non premium ones because they cost as much as 5-10 dollars less, just stick with the brand names and you should be fine. AND ....NO FRAM!!!! I REPEAT, NO FRAM.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpy_in_NH;269751 Of YarisWorld
I would never-EVER use the toyta Thailand filter again its very low quality compared to Toyota Japon, Nippon Denso 90915-10003 or 4. NO FRAM!

3. Filter Cap socket attachment
4. Socket Wrench
5. Size 14mm Socket
6. Oil Catch Can
Once this first oil change has been done, for all the rest, you should only require new oil and a new oil filter (granted you kept everything).


2. Getting to know where everything is:


Underside pic from RShatchback of Yarisworld.
_____________________________________________ ______ _____ ____

Now for the actual changing.....
NOTE: It is advisable that you warm up the engine to operating temps to mix up any deposits into the oil so it drains with the oil. Also important to note that if you feel the oil pan is too hot...wait a bit or use gloves. A quick drive to the store and back should be enough time for things to warm up properly.

1. Drain Oil using 14 mm Socket to remove oil plug. Use the wrench first to loosen the plug, then place Oil catch can under and proceed to twist the the plug loose with your fingers. (REMEMBER THE OIL MIGHT STILL BE TOO HOT, USE CAUTION)



A) Open the Oil Cap at the top of the engine to let air in if you wish for the oil to drain a bit faster.
B) Wait until the oil comes out to a few trickles.
C) Wipe down the oil pan. Clean up the drain plug.
D) Put the cleaned plug back into the pan. Be careful not to force it or you will strip the bolt and/or the hole. Tighten to firm with the socket wrench.

2. Oil filter. (REMEMBER OIL MAY STILL BE TOO HOT TO HANDLE THE FILTER, USE CAUTION)
A) Attach the oil filter cap to the socket wrench or use an appropriate oil filter wrench. I like the cap because of the ability to use the tool in small spaces.
B) Drag the oil catch can under the oil filter
C) Loosen the filter from the top of the engine (more room to work with). Remember because the filter is upside down (and you are looking down to it), you twist right to loosen.


Note: Twists reversed because you are viewing it from the top and the filter itself is mounted upside down.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpy_in_NH View Post
Not bad - but wrong on one point: Its Left-Lucy, Righty-Tighty on the filter. Actually there is no left or right. Its anti-clockwise to loosen (unless its a flammable gas fitting). Also I would never-EVER use the toyta Thailand filter again its very low quality compared to Toyota Japon, Nippon Denso 90915-10003 or 4. NO FRAM!


D)Use hand to twist the filter off. The Oil Filter will still have residual oil in it, turn it over and place it onto the catch can to continue draining. Wipe the opening of the Oil Filter nozzle.
E)Prepare the new oil filter by holding it upside down. Fill in from half to full of new oil. Spread some of the new oil on and around the oil filter gasket.

F) Take out the old filter and catch can from underneath the car. Put in the new, prepared one. Twist to the left to hand tightness. **yes, hand tight** If you want torque specs. scroll down to Discussion C.



3. Filling:
A) Open Oil Cap (if you haven't done it yet). Place Funnel in hole.


B) Fill to about 3 quarts and stop. If you're using the big 5qt Jug from wally world, put in a little under 3/4 of the jug.
C) Replace the oil cap. Wipe your hands and go start the engine and let her sit.
D) While the engine is running: Take a rag and start wiping things down. What you're doing is looking for leaks from the oil plug and from the oil filter. Of course don't stick your fingers where they don't belong while the engine is on.
E) After about 2-3 minutes, shut down the engine and pull the dip stick. Wipe it off and put it back in. Now pull it and look at where the oil is. because you only put in about 3 qts. The oil most likely will only be at the very tip of the dip stick. Put the Dipstick back in and fill up about half a qt. Run the engine again.
F) After another 2-3 minutes, stop the engine and check the dipstick. Oil should be around the bottom to middle (between the two dots).

G)....continue this until it gets to the middle...if the oil is in the middle...YOU'RE DONE!
H) Clean up, save oil and oil filter receipts for your records. Go have a beer or something.

4. Afterwards/Discussion
A) Check air filter to see if it needs replacing. Check wiper fluid levels. Check tranny dipstick (if you have one).
B) After the first day, then the week, then two weeks, check the ground under the car after you've pulled out to see if there are leaks. This just means tightening things up.
C) The Oil plug under the car should have been just firm with the wrench, the oil filter could have been just hand tight. If you are anal retentive, you may use the wrench to twist to firm. But the hand tightness is to help you for the next change, when that time comes, even if you did it to hand tightness, you will still find yourself needing a wrench.
As for Torque specs:
Quote:
Originally Posted by aca72 View Post

Oil plug (with new gasket)...
38 N*m (382 kgf*cm, 28 ft.*lbf)

Oil filter...
13 N*m (133 kgf*cm, 9.5 ft.*lbf)
If the available workspace is insufficient to use
a torque wrench, tighten the oil filter a 3/4 turn
by hand or use a common wrench.

http://www.etimago.com/yaris/repairmanual/

D) About oils. You can stay Dino (non-synthetic) if you wish, this won't hurt the engine in the least bit as long as you do it within the service intervals. Those of you who want to do synthetic may see a slight increase in performance and mileage (more mileage than performance). As far as brands...stick with the name brands and you will be fine. If you want some homework go to these two places for education:

1. General knowledge on Oils: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
2. Great discussions on Oils: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums

E) Service Intervals... If you don't want to get into the debate, stick with the 5000miles Toyota recommends...plus it doesn't void the warranty. Now if you are past the warranty (usually 36,000miles or 3 years), You could up the interval to near 10k miles if you want on certain synthetics.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddR View Post
Make sure your oil meets or exceeds the minimum specs required by Toyota.
Keep all receipts for future records! Write in a log the mileage, type of oil (ie 5w-20), and Filter type/brand.
F) From here on, you should be able to get away with buying the oil and the filter because you will already have everything else. Matter of fact, take the opportunity to take a trip to the store for that period you're supposed to warm up the car, this way, you won't be wasting gas staying in one place waiting for the engine to warm up.
G) You can find 5 Qt Jugs of oil or you can find oil in the usual 1 Qt bottles.
F. PLEASE DISPOSE OF YOUR USED OIL CORRECTLY. MOST AUTO PARTS STORES ARE HAPPY TO TAKE YOUR USED OIL. EVEN YOUR LOCAL MECHANIC WILL AS WELL, TAKE THE OIL FROM YOU.


Last edited by RningOnFumes; 09-05-2009 at 06:39 PM.
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#2 Old 05-24-2009, 07:27 PM
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Yaris oil change...

Excellent posting on the oil change! I have done them on GM and Dodge vehicles over the years, and it seems that I recall hand tightening the filter, then using a wrench and adding a half to 2/3rd of a turn. Also....I have never filled the oil filter before installing! This is my very first non US automobile and I can adapt to the changes, which seem quite sensible. I keep reading that replacing the oil drain plug gasket is important too. Does it also need to be changed each time the oil is changed?
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#3 Old 06-23-2009, 12:52 AM
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Smile

I've never routinely replaced oil drain plug gaskets, nor have I ever seen the employees in commercial oil change shops do this. I've never had a problem with one leaking that was properly installed and tightened, either. But you definitely want to make sure it's clean when you put it back, with no dirt clinging to it.
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#4 Old 07-15-2009, 03:22 PM
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USA 1st Oil Change

Just an FYI, Japan puts on our oil filters really tight!

From under the car you can really only grab the filter with your pointer finger and thumb. We could not get the filter off with our hands is was so tight. We should have used a strap wrench but did not have one at the location I was at. An hour later and using my belt as a strap wrench it finally came off.

LOL, 15min oil change took almost 90 minutes because of the darn oil filter!

Just wanted to give a heads up to all the noobs that they might be in for a bit of trouble getting the filter off for the 1st time.

All other oil changes down the road should be butter!
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#5 Old 07-15-2009, 07:03 PM
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Thats a thorough description ,make it a sticky
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#6 Old 07-15-2009, 08:59 PM
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Dirty, in the past when I've been stuck with a too-tight oil filter and no wrench, I've stuck a screwdriver through the filter body and used it to start it turning. Inelegant, but effective.
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#7 Old 07-16-2009, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yaris Hilton View Post
Dirty, in the past when I've been stuck with a too-tight oil filter and no wrench, I've stuck a screwdriver through the filter body and used it to start it turning. Inelegant, but effective.
Might have worked a few years ago but today's paper thin oil filter housing material will more than likely just tear leaving you with half the oil filter in your hand and the other end still firmly affixed.For the first oil change on a newly bought car if the filter is too tight take it to your general mechanic and let him put it up on a lift and loosen it,
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#8 Old 07-17-2009, 09:50 PM
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Ya, I've learned that for new cars, have the first change done by someone else, let them deal with the "glued" on oil filter. I was lucky to get a free oil change voucher which I promptly used for my first change.

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#9 Old 08-03-2009, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Sanchez View Post
Just an FYI, Japan puts on our oil filters really tight!
I saw that too. Don't know why.

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#10 Old 08-03-2009, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RningOnFumes View Post
Even thought this is a pretty easy exercise

F. PLEASE DISPOSE OF YOUR USED OIL CORRECTLY. MOST AUTO PARTS STORES ARE HAPPY TO TAKE YOUR USED OIL. EVEN YOUR LOCAL MECHANIC WILL AS WELL, TAKE THE OIL FROM YOU.
Nice work, especially the last part. Ought to save this somewhere.

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#11 Old 08-04-2009, 06:36 AM
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Thanks people. Someday...I will fix those typos and grammatical errors. If my highschool english teacher were dead, she'd be rolling in her grave.

As a reminder, please don't hesitate to bump diy treasures buried in the sometimes lonely pit that is the Yaris/echo section for me to sticky. And feel free to document your DIY adventures in the form of "How to's" no matter how small you think the project is.

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#12 Old 08-01-2010, 09:19 AM
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Nice thread. Why NO FRAM! Is there something I should be aware of? I've used them for the last couple of changes I've done, there weren't many other options at the store. I haven't seemed to have had any problems.
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#13 Old 08-18-2010, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_unliked View Post
Nice thread. Why NO FRAM! Is there something I should be aware of? I've used them for the last couple of changes I've done, there weren't many other options at the store. I haven't seemed to have had any problems.

Fram makes really crappy oil filters. They used to be a pretty decent name in the filter industry until they were bought out by a different owner. Now the quality is just crap. They have cardboard anti-drainback valves that do not seal properly... which in turn means that when you start your car most or all of the oil that is supposed to stay in the motor has drained back into the oil pan... Thus causing "dry starts" and possibly damaging your engine. This is especially a big deal for high mileage engines. I've even heard of the filter element being sucked into someones motor before.
I will never buy fram filters. I like wicks, purolator, or K&N.
Do some research of your own if you will.
www.bobistheoilguy.com
There's a nice little read about lucas oil there too. Pretty interesting stuff.

Good luck!
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#14 Old 09-16-2010, 09:57 AM
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The manual of my 1-liter yaris says 5W30 oil is the best
Do you have a different motor?
Perhaps the 3-cilinders needs more care...
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#15 Old 09-19-2010, 06:57 AM
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Welcome to the forums of ToyotaNation kamgusta!


Here on this side of the pond, we only have the 4 cylinder variations - 1.3L and 1.5L. For the most part, our manuals also say 5w30, later versions may say 5w20. Every region through the world has different recommendations and it is best to stick to what the manual and the oil cap says to use.

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