2000 Echo Stall / Power Loss immediatlely following throttle

[mikeatx]

I've been helping my friend get his Echo running a bit better. Initially it hadn't had an oil change in over a year (20k+ miles), no idea how old the plugs are, etc.. It's a 2000 Echo, 1.5L with 196k miles.

It has 7 CEL codes, 5 for misfires related to Cyl 1&3 and random misfires, the other 2 related to the OCV.

It now has clean oil, ran fuel system cleaner through it, NGK Platinum plugs, air filter and all the codes cleared at Autozoo.

Since the minor tune up, it's developed an odd power loss issue. From a stop, giving it throttle feels fine for about 1/2 a second, then nearly all power is lost and comes right back. Its almost like it want to stall but instantly everything is fine.

I was at a light last night, was a green left turn, so I tapped the throttle to pull forward and let off just in time for the power loss and it did actually stall. Started up just fine tho.

Seems like something odd with timing, bad sensor, something along those lines.

The CEL has been on and off a few times in the past 2 days, I'll find out what code its throwing and post an update. During the plug change I noticed the 2nd cylinder from the drivers side had oil on the plug, it doesn't smoke, but obviously not a good thing to find. Also get the feeling his A/C compressor is slowly dieing, it barely cools, pulls hard on the motor, belt slips when its cold and A/C on high (belt is new and tight).

[mikeatx]

P1349 is the only CEL code it has now, not bad, 1 left of 7 after plugs and oil change!

Says BBVVT system-bank 1
Possible Cause
BB1 - Open or short circuite condition
BB2 - Poor electrical connection

[n00b]

Here's a pdf specific to P1349
http://caphector.com/atoyota/techinf.../eg/ci1349.pdf


DTC No.
P1349

DTC Detecting Condition
Condition (a) or (b) continues for after the engine is
warmed up and engine speed at 400 ∼ 4,000 rpm :
(a) Valve timing does not change from of current valve
timing
(b) Current valve timing is fixed.

Trouble Area

Valve timing
Oil control valve
VVT controller assembly
ECM

If you put on a new belt yourself, did you damage the oil control valve? It's centered above the alternator and goes into the engine.


The a/c performance on this car isn't that great to begin with. I have my belt (Gates) on almost max tension to stop the squeaking.

[mikeatx]

I did install the belt myself, but that was a few weeks ago and this problem didn't become noticed until the plugs/oil change.

I still haven't cleaned the OCV and filter, thats next on my list. The car does seem to run the same with or without the OCV plugged in, which I would assume indicates its not doing anything?

I believe I've read you can apply power to the OCV and when at idle the car will stall or run rough? Any details on that? I would assume only 1 of the 2 pins needs the power, 12V fine?

Anything else I need to look at? I've owned a few Hondas and Nissans, this if the first Toyota motor I've really had my hands in.

[n00b]

here's the index to the online repair manual which I should have included in the other post
http://caphector.com/atoyota/TableOf...ts/manual.html

and here's the link to checking the oil control valve
http://caphector.com/atoyota/techinf.../ctocv/ovi.pdf

[mikeatx]

Hey Guys,

Cleaned the OCV and screen. The screen was fairly clogged, but cleaned up pretty well. The OCV was beginning to separate where the exterior case meets the internal half, but I was able to push the pieces back together and tighten the flange.

The CEL is still on, but I suspect it will turn off after a couple of days of driving. Everything seems to be working well now. Everything feels better, runs smoother, more power, quieter.

Now onto brake pads and shoes.

Thanks for the help.

[Yaris Hilton]

I'd wondered if sludge had clogged the OCV.

Will a CEL code like this clear itself? I thought they had to be cleared once set.

[06yaris]

I want to think once the ECU notices the change it will clear the code. I am not sure on that.

[denman]

Originally Posted by 06yaris

I want to think once the ECU notices the change it will clear the code. I am not sure on that.

The code will disappear after "two driving cycles" after the condition is repaired, according to what I've read. Lifting the negative cable off the battery for a few minutes is a quick way to clear codes, or your OBD II scanner (get one, they're cheap now) should be able to clear it.

[Yaris Hilton]

I'll second the recommendation for a code scanner/clearer.

[the_unliked]

Sorry about resurrecting an old thread, but I thought you gentleman might be of more help than just starting a new thread.

I drive a 2000 Echo. When I was removing my OCV only the front half came out. I bring it up because mikeatx mentioned that he could see his separating when he took it out. I have not tried anything too severe yet to get the other half out yet, but there definitely seems to be resistance. Is there any reason for this, or should it just pop out? I'm assuming that it is probably a melted o-ring or some such thing but I do not want to cause more damage by trying to remove it.

Any advice? Would it be better to keep wrestling this thing out, to to try a different approach, maybe taking the top of the engine block off?

On a separate note. I assume I broke this, like many before me, tensioning the belt. However, I changed my belts over a year ago and have experienced no performance issues. The only reason I even started looking into this, is because I have an emissions test coming up and wanted to clear my codes.

Thanks
Jay