Help getting rusted (license) plate screws off trunklid.

[twiki]

Hi All,

It me again, the guy with the 'new' 2003 Echo sedan.

For the past four days, I've been trying to get a pair of rusted screws off, using Liquid Wrench, and PB Blaster. The heads are a little damaged, but I've been using a battery-powered drill (with a flat bit), and have set the clutch to deliberately 'slip' and provide some hammer action. It hasn't budged yet, but its slipped a couple of times and is slightly marring the paint finish.

In a fit of desperation, I put a pair of vise grips to the threaded section of one bolt, and pretty badly damaged the threads.
Having regretted that decision, I'm back to using chemical treatments and patience.

Does anyone have any experience doing this? Even if the chemical treatment finally works them free, I know I'll face problems with the damaged threads. If these were hex bolts, I could literally force them off, but since the screw head is already damaged, this isn't an option.

PS: I"m doing this so I can install my license plates. Right now, I'm driving around with my plates partially displayed in my rear window. It's only a matter of time before I get pulled over for this!


Thanks!

[JNEG]

Get a screw extractor bit and drill them out. The reverse threads should pull the screws out with a little patience since you already soaked them with the PB. Good luck.

[1koolcat]

I had a similar experience when I went to put new plates on my CAMRY when it was about 5 years old. I think I used SEA-FOAM DEEP CREEP to help loosen the screws. One screw came out easily, but the other was frozen in place. In messing with the frozen screw I managed to put a couple scratches in the paint myself.

I think I tried VISE-GRIPS to grab what was left of the screw with limited success and then ended up drilling out the hole and tapping fresh threads for the replacement screw. (I had a tap and die set, but had to purchase the correct size tap.) It took a bit of a steady hand to drill out the old screw.

I used some brush-on rust inhibitor on the drilled out area to prevent further rusting. As an upgrade, I used STAINLESS STEEL socket head cap screws to attach the new plates. To make it easy to remove the screws in the future I applied anti-sieze compound on the screw threads. I recommend using the anti-sieze every time you remove and replace the license plates screws. You can purchase small packets of anti-seize (good for sparkplug threads, too) from any auto parts store.

Good luck to you.

[twiki]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the tips.

I've got the set of extractor bits, and will commence drilling and easing (or forcing) them out tomorrow.

Having used both Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster, I'm dispensing with the application of a third product, but will probably apply more PB at the start of the job. There's very little surface rust so the seized area is hidden.

Following these steps:
http://homerepair.about.com/od/inter..._extractor.htm

I'll report on my progress tomorrow.

[twiki]

Hi Guys,

I can report some success, but also a failure.

Overview from the outside:


Close-up of the left screw (outside and inside):


Close-up of the right screw (outside and inside):


One success:


One failure:

And yes, the 'star' in the middle is indeed the broken extractor bit. It snapped off when torque was applied. At least I know that it was able to grip the screw really well.

What should I try next? Drilling out the broken extractor? This is the (second smallest) size, and I'm not sure if the next larger one can grip the screw with the broken extractor there. Drilling it out will be tough, since the extractor is really hard metal.

Ideas and Suggestions appreciated!

[vic benson]

Can you drill from the inside of the trunk. With the end of the bole exposed the way it is, see if you can apply some heat to the bolt and spray a lubricant at the head of the welded nut without damaging the paint if possible. Drill the hole first and try heat and lubricant several times before you use the easy out. You could cut a vertical slot into the end of the bolt but it may not be enough meat in the bolt to work. Try the heat and oil, heat and oil and your vice grips again.

Vic

[vic benson]

Plastic bolts are available once you take out the old ones!!!!

Vic

[twiki]

Hi Guys,

For the screw that was stuck and had the broken extractor embedded, I attacked it from the inside again and found that I was able to move the screw. Once it was out a couple of turns, I was able to get a good grip on the head, and ease it out. There wasn't very much resistance from that point. The slight damage to the threads was not serious enough to prevent the extraction of the screw.

I brought the screws to The Home Depot, and found stainless-steel replacements, plus washers, for under a buck-fifty. Pretty much any hardware store will have this commonly sized screw.

Thanks to all for advice and encouragement!


PS: I added a light coat of anti-seize compound.

[1koolcat]

twiki -

Great job removing the frozen screw!

I applaud your choice of stainless steel for the replacement fasteners.

Just a reminder that a little anti-seize compound on the threads will guarantee you will be able to easily remove the screws in the future.

Cheers.

[vic benson]

I have replaced a lot of the visible screws (bolts) in the engine compartment. Hatchback and hood fastenings with stainless steel. I replaced the bolts securing the intake manifold with "Holo- Krome" The bolts securing the camshaft cover to the head with "Holo-Krome"

Why................."JUST BECAUSE I CAN"

I have found that most of the stainless steel nuts and bolts we have access to in Canada come from China and cannot be trusted. Some of the stuff from Chine is CRAP I just use it for decoration.

The Holo-Krome are made in the U S of A and consistent in quality.

Vic