My 2001 Echo sounds like a "buzz bomb", and the doughnut gasket between the exhaust manifold and the rest of the exhaust system is shot - actually, the gasket is LONG GONE and both springs fell out - the keepers/washers must have rusted away and allowed the springs to fall off.
I got a new gasket and bolt+spring kit at NAPA, but replacement process looks to be a real bear - - The existing bolt heads are so rusted, they will not accept a socket or wrench. The middles of the bolts look thin from rusting.
After lots of PB Blaster spray, a pair of vice grips on the passenger-side bolt did no good. I cannot even get to the passenger-side bolt with vice grips.
My hunch is that I'll have to cut the bolts in half (saw or cutting torch), then remove the exhaust manifold (to get it on my workbench) to even get the remnants of the old bolts unscrewed from the manifold flange to even be able to put in the new parts.
Does this pretty much sound like my only course of action?
Thanks!
TR
Last edited by toyota_rascal; 08-28-2011 at 04:13 AM.
Pulling off the exhaust manifold looks daunting to me; I read a suggestion that the the rest of the exhaust could be disconnected and slid back, while being supported. A cutting torch will be my choice of tool for cutting the rusted bolts.
The above suggestion may be the route that I go... the heat shield over my exhaust manifold has two screws at the bottom of it that are so rusted that they cannot be removed easily, and there is little room to grind them off or drill them out, so getting to the exhaust manifold bolts (to remove it) wouldn't be an easy task.
Last edited by toyota_rascal; 08-29-2011 at 07:19 PM.
I found this thread on google because I've been looking everywhere for tips on how to deal with this spring bolt/flange rust situation.
I have a 2001 Echo and I bought a new exhaust which starts from the flange at the end of the manifold. My spring bolts are still intact, but the area with the threads is rusted completely solid. I've used PB buster many times, and bought some bolt extracting sockets. My impact drill broke an extension I was using while trying to get the spring bolts loose. The worst part of this situation is there is no access. It's easy to reach it from right below, but no room to work horizontally from that point. Getting a socket or drill bit to the bolts requires going back behind a frame support, which means you need a foot long drill bit or extensions for sockets.
I was hoping to see some success here. I don't have a torch. I was thinking of buying a dremel to cut the bolts, because it's the only thing that will fit in that area. I'm afraid I will damage the flange and then I'll be forced to have a shop weld something on.
I was wondering if I had to use spring bolts, and not just another bolt/nut combination. This way I can drill it out and not worry about it. But doesn't this flange require some play? The rounded gasket purposely makes a loose connection, it seems.
I took at look at the manifold today, and I can't imagine trying to remove it from the engine. Frustrating.....
same situation here. i,ve removed one bolt with success, but the second snapped! i'm left with a tiny piece on bolt in the manifold. can't reach with vice grips. i too think about taking out the manifold... lots of fun i bet!
what did you guys (or your mechanic) have done to fix this? http://imgur.com/J789c http://imgur.com/FROba
These are always tough, so give yourself every possible advantage. Get the car up as high as safe to do, and remove all plastic paneling and surrounding components like the radiator and starter. Make the lighting as good as possible and load up on different shaped vice grips. Also the best penetrating oil you can get. Brake fluid will do in a pinch. Give the bolt a swat on top like you're trying to drive it in; this loosens the threads a bit. Every once in a while try using your fingers to screw it out:: sometimes your efforts will loosen it but the wrenches make it bind in the hole. If all else fails pull out the manifolds and take the exhaust manifold to a machine shop. While the rad is out have a good squint at it. If there's any chance it's original replace it or at least clear out all debris and straighten all the bent cooling vanes. Add upper and lower rad hoses to your shopping list along with a length of heater hose and a gallon of antifreeze. It's gonna cost some money but still a fraction of what a shop would have cost in this situation.
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2000 Echo, 200,000kms, aftermarket cruise control (AudioVox CCS-100), Intelligent Battery Guard (CTC), Sirius Satellite Radio, Scangage II, Garmin GPS, synthetic engine and gearbox lubes , Silicone Brake Fluid, Power Steering belt removed, delighted with the "tiny perfect car"
Hey rudecam, glad to see you got it back into battle, and thanks for that outstanding photo sequence. So pulling that manifold was the magic bullet eh?, ... I'll remember that when mine starts getting noisy
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2000 Echo, 200,000kms, aftermarket cruise control (AudioVox CCS-100), Intelligent Battery Guard (CTC), Sirius Satellite Radio, Scangage II, Garmin GPS, synthetic engine and gearbox lubes , Silicone Brake Fluid, Power Steering belt removed, delighted with the "tiny perfect car"
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2001 Echo - exhaust gasket replacement advice sought
- The existing bolt heads are so rusted, they will not accept a socket or wrench. The middles of the bolts look thin from rusting.
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