My Echo is acting up!

[capamando]

Hello,

My great 2001 Echo is acting up for the first time in 11yrs!.. This weekend I decided to have my mechanic change the manual transmission fluid and do a general inspection of the vehicle. He found nothing wrong. I decided that before embarking on a long trip, that I would change the oil/filter, flush the radiator and put new antifreeze, change the airfilter, replace the alternator belt, added a small bottle of Lucas complete fuel system and a new battery. I was proud of my DIY performance except that the next day the engine light came on! I took it to AutoZone where I purchase all the supplies and battery and they came up with CODE P1349 which I researched and found out about VVT(variable valve timing) malfunction. Some of the reasons for this malfunction are: low fuel pressure due to clogged or bad injectors..... Fuel pump regulator....camshaft malfunction or ECU (engine control unit) problem. I have no idea which one of these is the problem but I can tell you the following:
This morning the light was off then ten or fifteen minutes later it went on and at the same time the iddle got much faster for about two or three minutes, (in other words the engine was running faster even when I took my foot off the accelerator) and then came back to normal. Later on the light was off again followed by the same sequence of events. Then at one point later I could tell that the the engine was running fast again for a couple of minutes.

Can someone help me decide what to do to get rid of this problem. Is it a DIY project?

I would greatly appreciate your help

[Mercutio]

If you go on Edmunds or MSN auto the number 1 problem with this vehicle is the MAF sensor. Cleaned mine and it solved the problem.

[ET ECHO]

The problem may be the Oil Control Valve. This valve regulates camshaft timing by advancing or retarding the timing. It depends on the operating conditions.It can get damaged when changing the alternator belt and prying from the top of the alternator. The valve is just behind the alternator adjusting bracket.

You can check it as follows, remove the electrical connector. Using an ohm meter check for resistance between the 2 pins on the valve. It should read 5-12 ohms at 68°F. If the resistance is not withing specs replace the valve. You can check valve operation by applying voltage while engine idling after it has warmed up. Apply positive voltage to the right pin on the valve and negative ground to the left pin. The valve cycles when voltage is applied and when voltage removed. You will notice a difference in engine operation if the valve is cycling.

This test requires some small alligator clips. What I do is make the connection to ground then use a pin on the positive lead to touch the pin on the valve. When voltage is applied the valve moves in and with no voltage the valve moves out. You can remove the valve to see if it operates. The ECM controls the OCV and verifies correct timing by monitoring the cam position sensor.


Checking a bit further the usual symptom of a bad OCV is rough idling. In your case you have a faster idle so it may not be the OCV. Still it may be worthwhile to check it. The code P1349 is directly related to the OCV.

[capamando]

Originally Posted by Mercutio

If you go on Edmunds or MSN auto the number 1 problem with this vehicle is the MAF sensor. Cleaned mine and it solved the problem.

Mercutio,

Thanks for the tip...I will clean the MAF tomorrow...it probably needs cleaning regardless of whether it clears the P1359 or not.

[capamando]

ET ECHO,

I did use a crow bar to reinstall the alternator belt. I now realize the mistake.... I do not have an ohm meter so I will try to check the OCV by applying voltage per your instructions. Please clarify for me what you mean by applying positive voltage to the right pin on the OCV.... Can I connect the alligator clip to the + on the battery ? what about the ground? can I use the - on the battery? Sorry for my ignorance.


Thanks

Originally Posted by ET ECHO

The problem may be the Oil Control Valve. This valve regulates camshaft timing by advancing or retarding the timing. It depends on the operating conditions.It can get damaged when changing the alternator belt and prying from the top of the alternator. The valve is just behind the alternator adjusting bracket.

You can check it as follows, remove the electrical connector. Using an ohm meter check for resistance between the 2 pins on the valve. It should read 5-12 ohms at 68°F. If the resistance is not withing specs replace the valve. You can check valve operation by applying voltage while engine idling after it has warmed up. Apply positive voltage to the right pin on the valve and negative ground to the left pin. The valve cycles when voltage is applied and when voltage removed. You will notice a difference in engine operation if the valve is cycling.

This test requires some small alligator clips. What I do is make the connection to ground then use a pin on the positive lead to touch the pin on the valve. When voltage is applied the valve moves in and with no voltage the valve moves out. You can remove the valve to see if it operates. The ECM controls the OCV and verifies correct timing by monitoring the cam position sensor.


Checking a bit further the usual symptom of a bad OCV is rough idling. In your case you have a faster idle so it may not be the OCV. Still it may be worthwhile to check it. The code P1349 is directly related to the OCV.

[capamando]

Originally Posted by Mercutio

If you go on Edmunds or MSN auto the number 1 problem with this vehicle is the MAF sensor. Cleaned mine and it solved the problem.

Mercutio,

Bought some CPR cleaner and cleaned my MAF today. I let the car iddle for about 20 minutes.... no engine light!!!! ... Not claiming victory yet... we will see tomorrow on the road... Thanks

[ET ECHO]

Originally Posted by capamando

Mercutio,

Bought some CPR cleaner and cleaned my MAF today. I let the car iddle for about 20 minutes.... no engine light!!!! ... Not claiming victory yet... we will see tomorrow on the road... Thanks

If the engine idles good and you have no engine light I would not do the test. Wait until you get a fault.

You have to remove the engine cover to access the OCV then disconnect the electrical connector.
To remove the OCV connector you squeeze the center tab and pull out. Easy way to do remove it is use needle nose pliers to squeeze the tab and pull connector with fingers. With the connector removed you will see 2 small pins on the OCV facing you. The left one is ground the right one is positive.

Use 2 jumper wires with alligator clips. Connect one wire to battery negative and the other end to the left pin. Connect the other wire to battery positive. Connect a pin to the other positive end and just touch that pin to the pin on the OCV. Use care doing this as there is very little room. I rested my hand on the alternator or alternator bracket and slowly moved to touch the pin.

My OCV failed the test but I could not change out the valve. I had to return to Texas. So I will change it end of October when I return to Florida that is where the Echo is located. This one has a rough idle. It is at a university so it gets little use and can wait until I get there.

[capamando]

Originally Posted by ET ECHO

If the engine idles good and you have no engine light I would not do the test. Wait until you get a fault.
You have to remove the engine cover to access the OCV then disconnect the electrical connector.
To remove the OCV connector you squeeze the center tab and pull out. Easy way to do remove it is use needle nose pliers to squeeze the tab and pull connector with fingers. With the connector removed you will see 2 small pins on the OCV facing you. The left one is ground the right one is positive.

Use 2 jumper wires with alligator clips. Connect one wire to battery negative and the other end to the left pin. Connect the other wire to battery positive. Connect a pin to the other positive end and just touch that pin to the pin on the OCV. Use care doing this as there is very little room. I rested my hand on the alternator or alternator bracket and slowly moved to touch the pin.

My OCV failed the test but I could not change out the valve. I had to return to Texas. So I will change it end of October when I return to Florida that is where the Echo is located. This one has a rough idle. It is at a university so it gets little use and can wait until I get there.

ET ECHO,

Thanks for your help.... I will wait... hopefully for a loooong time! We bought our Echo new 11 yrs ago and it has been a great little car... all that we have done is oil/filter change, tires, battery and front brakes.

[ET ECHO]

Hope it works out for you. BTW, my valve also failed the ohm test so the coil inside is open. Needs replacing but not a difficult job. Just one bolt holds it in and one o'ring to seal the connection.

[capamando]

Originally Posted by capamando

ET ECHO,

Thanks for your help.... I will wait... hopefully for a loooong time! We bought our Echo new 11 yrs ago and it has been a great little car... all that we have done is oil/filter change, tires, battery and front brakes.

Well.... THE LIGHT IS BACK!!!! time to test the electrical connectors with some gator clips... by the way, will this test tel me if the OCV is faulty or just the connectors? What is the difference between this test and the ohm test... I have no ohm meter so I am hoping that the gator clips will tell me what I need to know.

Thanks

[ET ECHO]

Originally Posted by capamando

Well.... THE LIGHT IS BACK!!!! time to test the electrical connectors with some gator clips... by the way, will this test tel me if the OCV is faulty or just the connectors? What is the difference between this test and the ohm test... I have no ohm meter so I am hoping that the gator clips will tell me what I need to know.

Thanks

Sorry to hear you still have a problem.

This valve works just like a solenoid, like one on a starter. It is either on or off. The electrical test will cycle the valve if the valve is working. With voltage applied the valve moves in and without voltage it moves out. With voltage applied you should notice a change in engine idle speed. Engine should be warmed up at operating temperature.

The ohm test checks the resistance of the coil inside the valve. It has to measure at the value that I posted or you change the valve. It may be a better test whether the valve is good or bad. If you have a test light you can do the test just to see if the coil has continuity. Just touch the test light leads to the 2 pins on the valve. If the coil has continuity, the light will light . If the coil is open, the light will not light. The test light just does not tell you what is the actual resistance of the coil.

These 2 tests only tell you if the valve is working or not. It does not measure the electrical voltage which is supplied by the ECM depending on operating condition. The valve has to work in order to make the timing adjustments.

Remember that the usual symptom for this test is a rough engine idle so look for that.

[capamando]

ET ECHO,

Thank You for such clear explanation... I will try the electrical test. As far as the idle... the one obvious thing that I have noticed is that it increases for a minute or two and then settles back to a normal rpm. This can happen at any time while driving.

[ET ECHO]

You might want to take the car to Autozone and check for codes again. Just to make sure you are dealing with the same code.

BTW, Harbor Feight is running some adds where you make any purchase and you get a multimeter free. You might want to check the magazines and check for the add. Then get a meter. It comes with some info on how to use. They are invaluable for a variety of electrical checks. Good for testing batteries, the car, the house, boats anything that runs electrically. This is a good basic meter for some simple tests.