IT is deangerous if you do not use a fuse or a circuit breaker!!...thats all im saying..use a fguse or a circuit breaker. so you dont short everything out, burn your circuitry, possibly cause the batt to explod or start a fire. im not saying dont do it. just use a fuse or circuit breaker on the positives line. and make sure you use the right amperage fuse. for the fuse you cannot exceed the max amp rating that is running thru the battery. Or else you fuse will not blow if there is a problem and it will be as if there was never a fse installed.
also look at the last picture(the all chrome box) on tht page. you can see that the guy installed a fuse/circuit breaker.
it is very dangerous if you dont do it right. think about this. would you take a car battery and put a metal pipe over the positive and negative ends? more than likeley it will explode if done long enough. this is what can happen if you don not install this setupo using the proper procedures.
Ok, so the Battery is in the back, The ratio is better but not great, and i will be heading to a scrap yard tomorrow to see if i cant find a nice little paseo ECU, he he he.....
__________________
-----------------------------------------------
It's not how fast you drive, It's how you drive fast.
Tryed it, but i only had 25 and 35 amp fuse so they all died, i will get a 50 or 100 amp tomorrow. But i had everything check by a mecanic to make sur everything is ok
__________________
-----------------------------------------------
It's not how fast you drive, It's how you drive fast.
I will look into the fuse holder and fuse today, you say 150amps? people have started telling me 50, 100, 450. So i'm confused with that...
Someone ask for the safe route i used, sorry for not answering before, i just saw the post. I passed it on the passenger side. I had a hole in my firewall ( i think it was for AC, wich i do not have on my car ). So i passed it in that hole, then i removed the little platic covers under the door, and passed it there same thing for the rear, and to get in the trunk i passe at the same place the break light wire passe but on the passenger side.
The wire take 5 minutes to pass, it was very easy. Maybe one important thing i would guest for newbies reading this, when in the engine bay do not let your wire touch anything that will get hot ( engine, exhaust manifold... )
__________________
-----------------------------------------------
It's not how fast you drive, It's how you drive fast.
i would say buy a 100 ANL fuse and a 150ANL fuse. keep both in your car. use the 100 first. if for any reason it blows down the line, check and exsure that the positive is not grounding out on the chassis. after that then tryh the 150ANL. once you have the 150ANL get a 200 ANL just in case the 150 blows because the system has too many amps running thru it. basically trial and error.
Back to the ECU swap wich was the original subject. I'm gonna have to put it on old... i tough i could get one used, for about 30-50$ guess not, used, they go for 150 bones. Money i dont want to spend on a upgrade, that MIGHT give me a little more power... So i'm still looking for a cheap one... maybe from a scrap Paseo or something but i guess it's not gonna be any time soon
__________________
-----------------------------------------------
It's not how fast you drive, It's how you drive fast.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.