Advanced help needed. I've tested everything! I'll try to keep this short. Complete year long rebuild bumper to bumper. Wiring harness was in sad shape. SO many parts have been replace. I have the FSM and 40 years experience. Was running great last week.
Injectors will not open. It all points to the ECM, but I've tried three. (However not a new one, Can't afford it.) TPS tests good, tried swap anyway. Igniter seems good, I tried known good, just in case. I'm still thinking that I'm not getting a signal from Igniter to ECM. The only test in FSM is at idle. EGt - E1 about 1v, I don't have it, but then engine is not idling. Spark is strong. engine will run for a short time after spraying fuel into air blume. it will even try to start off of Cold Start Valve, alone. I have fuel pressure. fuel pump and filter replaced two years ago. Power is to injectors, balist resitiors are fine. EFI relay good, ECM is powered, and grounded, no codes, other then, code 1. When I discontnect ECM and ground injector at that connection, they will open. I believe the ECM doesn't know the engine is turning over and thus not firing the injectors.
What am I missing? What other test is there that is not in the BOOK.
Thanks for taking some time to think about this one.
fuel pump is running during cranking. For others who may find this helpful if they are having similar troubles , the Open Circuit Relay has two circuits, one from the Ignition key and one from the Air Flow Meter. both energize the relay to run fuel pump, to test the AFM switch, push the vane inside forward, with the key on. the fuel pump should start. the other turns on the pump during cranking.
I have used the fuel pump test jumper connection, running the pump continuously during cranking, just to be sure. I have good pressure and flow. Pump and filter are only two years old.
Last edited by purplepig; 01-11-2010 at 10:53 PM.
Reason: unclear
"The ECU needs to see a couple of input signals or the injectors won't be turned on, these are the IGF and the NE signals, the IGF is the signal that tells the computer that there is spark to the spark plugs (which seems to be the case) the NE signal is an rpm input signal that lets the computer know the engine is turning over, if this signal is not there the injectors will not fire.
The problem may be a loss of the NE signal or a bad ECU or a bad ECU ground or wire problem, there should be a steady voltage to one side of the injector connector, between 6-12 volts depending on whether an injector resistor is used, the other side of the injector connector is the on/off ground signal controlled by the computer which cycles the injector "ON" time according to engine demands."
thanks Sindey for helping. All of that I know, what I need to know is how to test for NE signal. Can you help me there. I bought another "good' igniter on ebay, the seller is trying to help, he says it is good. So I keep looking deeper. I've cut open the wiring harnesses again looking for anything abnormal , just to be sure, using and old ECU and igniter I've tested continuity in each wire and the plugin connections by going inside both ECU and igniter with covers off and testing at the boards. It is not the wiring. Now meticulously doing the same for all the wiring in the EFI harness. (WHAT I need is a running 22re to swap parts with.) Last time I powered up, I started getting a code 7 TPS open or shorted, however it tests fine on the bench, 6.3k across VCC - E2 and smooth VTA variable top to bottom, IDL switch fine. Mind Boggling. So now I'm looking for another one of those to swap in, just o see what happens. AS FAR AS I know code 7 shouldn't keep the injectors from firing. I'm tesing anything and everything, so any suggestion are most welcome.
ARE WE having fun yet. I'm going to post some picture so you guys can see what your working on.
If your truck has a solenoid resistor test it to see if its bad. The one on my 86 4Runner went bad and my truck wouldn`t start. I had good spark and good fuel presure, but the injectors wouldn`t operate, i had a spare that i swapped in and it started on the first try.
that was one of the first things I checked for. I mentioned it in my first post that the injectors are powered.
I'm looking for advanced diagnostic techniques on the Igniter NE, IGt and IGf signals, not covered in the factory service manual. of which there are none.
Also if anyone has a car or truck with a compatible running 22re motor, any condition, I'm looking to buy a parts car. I forget which ones they are. Seattle to Portland and a bit further.
I'm ready to throw parts at this, a EFI wiring harness too. or rather I put my parts in the other until I know which part or parts are bad.
I've removed and cut open the EFI wiring harness, checking each wire end to end. all are good and in the right locations (connection at sensors and ECU) have found that the Throttle body is not original, looks like it it is the 90-91 type with the Auxiliar Air Valve (water controled under the TB) the original Air Valve (86 type, page FI66 in FSM) is missing. thus the plug is not being used. (Blue and Brown wires) I've been wondering about that from the begining. Haven't been concerned about it, it's power by Fuel pump circuit, just a heater in the air valve along with the water warming it too. I think I'll remove the wiring since I'm now sure I would be needing it. and the harness looks great all wrapped up new. This is all fine with me, 2nd gen aux air system is much better. I now realize my TPS is secound gen too. Should not make a difference. Different plug but same specs. I'm working my way through ECU testing, and I've now got a bad reading from the air temp sensor. So once I solve that I'll move on. One of the first things I tried was swapping Air Flow Meters. (which includes the air temp sens. Sidney I'm only adding these side notes to help furture researchers.) To have KNOWN good parts would help.
I've posted a new question.. location of 4wd temp switch, mine is missing. yellow w/ green wire to TSW (b16 on ECU)
AND still no injectors working.
I thrive on difficult automotive challages.
Thanks to ALL for looking and thinking about this,
Gregory.
Greg you can find out where the 4WD temp switch is from these free online EPC catalogs which also allow you to type in a part # and determine which years and models use that part:
You have done some extensive troubleshooting, but I'm going to throw this out there anyway. Have you tried another ignition switch, as in the Key switch?
just wondering if you have gotten any further with this? my 91 22re is having the same issue, my injectors arent firing, replaced the igniter/coil, got spark, fuel filter, got fuel up to rail, new dist.cap, rotor, wires, plugs. havent replaced ecu yet and dont want too unless its necessary. thought i wasnt getting the igf signal but after reading all this about yours im wondering if mine isnt getting the ne signal, i dont have as much knowledge on doing all the tests youve gone through so im kind of looking for ideas /tips.
hello all, I don't have any helpfull advice on all of "this", after cutting open the EFI harness and checking each wire, connection and every component, I couldn't find anything totally bad. everything is weak, and I wish I could replace all of it. I have cleaned and tightened all of it. my Air flow meter works but the readings jump around, air temp thermal resistor is good, reading goes downs as I heat it (or is it up). and the fuel pump switch works. TPS passes "tests" but readings jump around too, as I move it from closed to fully open, And I still don't know of a way to test the signals from the Ignitor, without the engine running. so assuming their good, I put it all back together and tried starting it, not expecting it to run. But it did! running rough and still needing work. I have no idea what was keeping the ECU from grounding the injectors. it is now. Plus I tried the old parts just to see, turns out all of them are good enough. And here is the really interesting part. The previous owner must have been having a problem, because there was a replacment ECU in the truck when I got it. (As I could tell by the parts yard paint numbers on it) My sister had the truck's orignal ECU in box at her house "stuff from the truck" she didn't know what it was till I showed her the "new" one I bought to try. and the orignal works now. all three are good. the orignal Ignitor is good, in fact it gives me stronger spark then the replacment I bought. So much for throwing parts at this. I can only guess that it must have been many weak connection, combined with weak sensors. I'm just glad it is running.. And I don't trust it yet.
I found out where the 4wd temp switch is. Who ever put the newer motor in didn't care enought to do it right. turns out my intake manifold is from wrong year or from a two wheel drive.
To end all of this, I found a guy on Craigs list selling the whole EFI system, cheap. from a 4wd 92 pickup. There are two temp sensors on this intake, one by the thermostat housing and one in the middle of cyl 2 and 3. so I'm using it. problem solved. I haven't tested these parts yet, but if they are better then what I've got, I'll use them. Came from a good running truck, with a blown rod.
I'm working on something else for awhile, I will post the results of my testing when done for anyone curious to know.
To sum up.... I didn't find any bad parts, and nothing wrong anywhere. But I fixed it.
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