My SIL's 95 4runner with 4wd and the 3.0 engine won't crank. It started doing it somewhat intermittently, but now total. The small plug-in type relay in the fuse box behind the battery is not getting power to close. The relay itself is good. If I pull the relay and use a small jumper wire to simulate closing the relay where it plugs in, she cranks and starts right up.
Can anybody tell me what components are in-line before the relay? Does anybody have a wiring schematic of the start ckt?
I could wire in a push button to replace the relay, but I'm afraid it may be a safety or engine protection component failing.
Thanks in advance for any help.
My SIL's 95 4runner with 4wd and the 3.0 engine won't crank. It started doing it somewhat intermittently, but now total. The small plug-in type relay in the fuse box behind the battery is not getting power to close. The relay itself is good. If I pull the relay and use a small jumper wire to simulate closing the relay where it plugs in, she cranks and starts right up.
Can anybody tell me what components are in-line before the relay? Does anybody have a wiring schematic of the start ckt?
I could wire in a push button to replace the relay, but I'm afraid it may be a safety or engine protection component failing.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Try putting the gear selector in neutral and see if it cranks over, if it does you should remove the N/S switch, take it apart and try cleaning the contact strips.
It's been over a month now, and I've just gotten back to do some troubleshooting for this problem. I did like CWH5 recommended. I then ohmed out the switch, it's working as designed. I'm getting no power to the N/S switch though. Does anybody know if it happens to be a ground completing switch rather than voltage conductor? I'm guessing it's supposed to send voltage. Could it be that little black box the N/S switch plugs into is the problem???
Thanks in advance for any help.
Last edited by Bunklash; 10-19-2010 at 08:17 PM.
Reason: clarification
Sorry I didn't make it clearer. It's not getting voltage to it's coil side, terminal #1, therefore won't close to allow voltage through the contact side, terminal #5. When I jump it, the relay is removed and I'm jumping across terminals 5 & 3. I'm certain the relay is good as I bench checked it.
Looking at the schematic you sent, it appears the battery relay gets it's coil voltage straight from the ignition switch. I assumed it went through the NS sw first. Now I gotta figure how to get at the ignition sw. Anybody???
OK, more info. I removed that little black box mentioned up in post #5. The NS sw plugs into it as does the brake pedal shifter lock release solenoid, and a plug going toward the engine area. It's labeled "Computer Shift Lock Control". I'm starting to suspect this rather than the ignition switch, because when I turn the ign sw to "start" it closes a ckt to something I can hear click in the eng. compartment. I'm also wondering about the schematic jetwhine sent, as this component is not shown, and the plugs are different than illustrated????
Take a look at this diagram. Just like the other there in not much that will cause the no power problem to the starter relay. If you don't have power it is either the key switch or the fuseable link that is in line with the key switch up stream. Its a 40A fuseable link. http://www.*******.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/fuelpump.pdf
I believe the relay that you are hearing is the EFI relay.
Last night it finally hit me. If I can jump the contacts of the Start Relay and power gets to the starter, that means the NS Sw IS CLOSED!!! Boy do I feel stupid!!!
So, Jetwhine, you're right, it's probably the ignition switch, or wiring from it. I'm going to try and get to it again tomorrow.
By the way, the switch and control box I was focusing on apparently has nothing to do with starting. Turns out, I've still not even laid eyes on the NS Sw. Oh well, at least now I'm not AS lost LOL.
You don't have to feel stupid, Electrical issue are sometimes confusing if you don't work with it all the time. Don't give up because you will find the problem. I think you are on the right track now! I do have one question: Did you check pin 1 to ground with the key in the start position (as in cranking the starter)? When cranking you should read 12 volts. If you have 12 volts then I would suspect either the relay or the wireing to ground or if you don't have that then I would suspect the key switch or fuseable link or a broken wire from fuseable link to the relay through the key switch. I hope this helps.
Yes I have checked, and definitely do not have voltage on pin 1 when key turned to 'start'.
One good thing about this episode is the fantastic help I got from a local repair shop owner. He helped me troubleshoot over the phone, calling me back at 8 PM last nite, all out of the goodness of his heart. It was Monroe from Asian Automotive in Fort Walton Beach, FL. You just don't often run into people willing to go out of their way for strangers. I'll be trying to send business his way whenever I can. It was while talking to him I figured it out. Gotta love it!
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