Hi guys i'm not exactly sure if it started when the cold temperatures arrived, but I've most definitely noticed it more lately, my IDLE RPM is always between 1000-1300RPM in neutral even when warmed up.
After a good 30-40 minute drive of higher reving, it bottoms down to 1000-1100..
You guys have any idea why it does not idle at 700 like it used to?
Being more knowledgeable with carburetors I was wondering if my cold air intake could make it run lean and have it rev higher in cold temperatures ?
I turned the IDLE SCREW all the way in and was able to get a steady 1050 RPM instead of like 1400... but its still not normal it should drop to 700-800 when warm and does not!
If you look at your engine from the front the sensor is in the back of the engine. There is a row of approx. 4 sensors. The temp sensor is on the left hand side. It has a straw color connector on top of it.
If you look at your engine from the front the sensor is in the back of the engine. There is a row of approx. 4 sensors. The temp sensor is on the left hand side. It has a straw color connector on top of it.
When you say the 'BACK' you mean closer to the firewall?
Yes at the firewall on the engine.
At 20 Deg C. the resistance should be about 2-3K ohms.
At 80 Deg C. the resistance shoud be about .2-.5K ohms
At 0 Deg C. the resistance shoud be about 4-6K ohms
If it is not within any of these tolorences I would deep six it and get another. If it were me I would just replace it as they are not that expensive.
Hope this helps
The best thing to do is get your rig up to operating temp. then take a reading of the temp sensor that will tell you if it has a problem. Becuase what I think is happening is that it is still sending a colder than normal warm temp reading to the ECU and it is keeping the idle high as a result of a bad reading from the temp sensor. Or if your rig is not coming up to temp then you might have a bad coolant thermostat. Do you understand what I am trying to say. You might even have a problem with the cold start circuit. It might not be getting the right signal from its water temp switch and keeping itself in a choke mode, which is a high idle. 1000 plus RPM. There are a few things that will cause this but I wanted you to look at the ECT sensor first. It is hard to see and to take some readings you might have to move a few hoses out of the way to get to it but I would check it out first. As I said before as you are looking at the engine from the front, it is behind the engine at the back just infront of the firewall.
I found the temp sensor, its actually in the front of the engine, not near the firewall its connected near the radiator hose which makes sense. When I unplug it I lose complete signal of temperature in the dash. Could the sensor be defective even though it still has signal?
That one only sends signals to the indicator. The one that controls the efi system is the ect which is in the back of the engine. I have heard of fixing this problem with changing that sensor that you had found in the front which it the water temp sensor. You can try it and maybe it will fix it. But if is does not then you need to go after the ECT sensor. This sensor sends signals to the ECU which controls the electronic fuel injection. Another thing you can try is remove the cold start injector and see if it is squirting fuel out after the engine is warm. If it is then you have a problem in the cold start system. These things need to be looked at one at a time to verify that they are working properly and then can be checked off of your list as possible causes. It is a slow process but will give some results.
The water temp sensor that you are looking at should have a yellow wire with a green stripe on it???
And yes if the sensor, mainly the ECT sensor, is sending a wrong signal, the ECU does not know the difference. It will not give a check engine light for a faulty signal it will only give a check engine light if it does not receive a signal at all. The sensor has to be totally dead for the CEL to come on. Hope all this helps.
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