94 4runner stalls after reaching operating temp. Re-starts easily and runs for 10 sec. to 2 min. then stalls again. After repeating this start/stall for 12 to 25 times, it will run just fine all day, or until the engine cools-off.
The engine will try to idle up (the tach fluctuates) before it dies.
The dealer doesn't know (or doesn't care) what the problem could be - all systems check OK on their computer.
Help! This is a "daily driver" and I don't need it to quit 100 miles from home and in the middle of the woods.
Then the next things I would check would be the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor) to see if it is giving you bad readings. Then I would check the idle speed control valve. I would suspect the ECT first.
The Following User Says Thank You to jetwhine For This Useful Post:
tom1794,
No it not the same. The iscv controls how fast the engine will return to idle from apprx. 2500rpm.
The procedure is in the MFI throttle body section. There is the adjustment for the DP. The dash pot valve controls the idle. This should be checked after you check out the ECT. I would suspect a faulty ECT.
I would go OEM on that if you can afford it. They are not that much more. It might not show a fault but maybe just sending a bad signal. Sometimes if it sends just the wrong value to the ECU then the ECU does not know that it is a wrong signal. The only thing the ECU can tell is if it does not receive a signal at all, then it flags the sensor as inop. The ECU is happy as long as it gets a signal wheather it is wrong or not it does not care.
Where is the best place to get this ECT (engine coolant temp sensor) other than Toyota? I would like to order, or should I bite the bullet an get the Toyota ECT? I'm having a similar problem with my 1990. Already changed Mass Airflow, gas filter and this thing runs a little rich after it sits , after starting, and on frreay & hills it runs fine.
I'll be picking-up a Toyota coolant temp sensor next week.
In the meantime I've been sitting down with an old Haynes Manual and trying to educate myself a little bit. In one section, to check the "air valve" they say to turn the "idle speed adjusting screw" all the way in, and that when the engine is at operating temp the idle speed should not drop. Is that correct? When I turn this screw all the way in, the engine RPM drops so far it nearly stalls.
Again, thanks for the input and advice. You've been the only person to actually try and help!
You might try disconnecting the EGR vacuum line plug it and see how it runs. The valve might be sticking. You might also have to clean the throttle body. To do that you must remove it. Not a big deal but you might need a new gasket for it when reinstalling it. If you can save the old one that would be ok. I prefer OEM when possible.
As far as helping, I'm not always right but I try, and trying to trouble shoot a car over the internet is tough buisness.
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Stalls at operating temp
Linear Mode
