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Old 09-08-2011, 09:14 AM   #1 (permalink)
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USA 92 pickup 22re will NOT run

Ok guys, so here it is. 22re in a 92 pickup. I have rebuilt this truck from the ground up. swapped the motor for one with a new timing chain, installed fuel cell with high pressure inline pump, all new EVERYTHING, over ten grand invested. Everthing tests good, injector pulse, timing, valve clearance, fuel pressure, all right on. Spark at the plugs when I pull them out, but I do wonder if they may be breaking down under compression. The dizzy, wires, and plugs are all brand new, only thing I didnt replace is coil pack. Could a weak coil pack cause the plugs to break down, or is there another issue I have overlooked? Last summer I got it to pop with ether, but this year it wont even pop. Im ready to put a free sign on it
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Old 09-08-2011, 10:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Huh... How does the spark look? Good and strong? Or weak and yellow?
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:34 AM   #3 (permalink)
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JLDcustoms,

I don't think the coil would cause plug breakdown. If the coil pack was weak then you should see a weak spark at the plugs. Plugs do breakdown under compression. I would think with all the work you have down that you would have installed new plugs? How do you know that the timing is right on if it has never started? Just because all the marks align does not mean that you are right on. You could be 180 deg. off. It will never run with spark on the exhaust stroke.
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Old 09-09-2011, 10:13 AM   #4 (permalink)
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USA

the spark looks good...blue in color. i know the timeing is correct because i did it per the haynes manual...5 degrees off of tdc on compression stroke of number one cylender, dizzy pointing at number one plug...i will try flipping it 180 degreees for giggles, but i dont think thats the issue...what about the icm ontop of the coil? what is the function of this? someone once told me it tells your comp when to fire injectors. any truth in this? also got a new coil and icm late last night from a buddy for 20 bucks. will try it for chuckles
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Old 09-09-2011, 08:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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JDLcustoms,

Nothing will help if the cam is not in the right position with the crank. I know this sucks but it needs to be checked to make sure All timing marks align. I know I'm probably preaching to the choir but you might have to pull the timing cover to make double sure All timing marks align. When you are at top dead center on the crank your cam mark should align and the Dizzy should point to #1. I know this is all simple stuff. but if you have spark and you have fuel and you have air this engine should light off.
Did this rig run before all the extensive work?

Last edited by jetwhine; 09-09-2011 at 08:39 PM.
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Old 09-13-2011, 06:37 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Question

A quik compression check told the story...from sitting for so long, the valves became rusty enough that they wont seel tight. All cylenders are low on compression. I plan to lapp the other heads off of my old engine and do a head swap. Does anyone know a good way to keep the timing chain from falling and slipping a gear on the crank when I do the job? I would rather not remove the timing cover if I dont need to. Also, the cam mark should point straight up when on compression of number one cyl, right??
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:14 AM   #7 (permalink)
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JLDcustoms,

The only method I would trust would be, to remove the cover and make sure all the index marks align. There other ways but what will happen if it slips a tooth, then you have to go in there anyway. Why waste time trying to cheat. You have a 50/50 channce of doing it right. Those odds are not good enough for me. I would rather take a little more time in the begining then having to rip and tear again later. This is probably not what you want to hear.
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