P0330- knock sensor 2 circuit malfunction - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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#1 Old 03-13-2010, 03:48 PM
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P0330- knock sensor 2 circuit malfunction

My mechanic says I have this code that triggered the check engine light. I understand this results in retarding the timing? Would this failure make the 4Runner feel gutless and drink gas like a hog?
While I'm asking, is this a difficult sensor to replace? Thank you
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#2 Old 03-13-2010, 06:10 PM
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Yes it retards the timing
Yes it will be a gas hog.
And I can't tell you if it's difficult to replace cause you didn't say what year, engine, or anything else about your vehicle.

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#3 Old 03-13-2010, 06:21 PM
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Sorry about that. It's a 97 3.4L V6 4Runner limited.
Besides a gas hog, if the timing is retarded it would seem really gutless wouldn't it? could the sensor malfunction be hiding, or caused by another issue? Thank you very much for your advice!!
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#4 Old 03-13-2010, 06:45 PM
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Yes there would be a power loss too. On the 2.4 4 cyl and 3.0 V6 knock sensor failures are caused by the sensor's wire a lot of times. Not sure if it happens on the 3.4.
A quick glance at the AFM looks like it's a PITA to replace. It's usually a PITA to get to on most engines

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#5 Old 11-09-2011, 03:35 PM
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P0330 2004 4.7L Tundra

Hey guys, Im new to the site as a member. Ive been haunted by this CEL for years.yes, years. Ok so i have the P0330 code. Bank 2 Knock sensor. After reading around i see it can lead to sluggish gas guzzling issues. My truck is a slug since this happened! Toyota told me the CEL was something else to they replaced o2 sensors and Cats. pull off the lot and its back on. Then they tell me they see a wire was cut and spliced on the knock sensor and needs to be replaced. Big job they tell me on the 04 4.7L Tundra.

So heres my question.... Im an electrician. could a wire splice cause a knock sensor to malfunction? i understand dissimilar metals when it comes to thermocouples etc but voltage is voltage and im assuming who ever took my engine apart, cut and respliced this wire prior to me buying it with 4 miles on it, used the same piece of wire.

Any help would be appreciated....
should i change this? by looking at a OBD reader, can i see something that would actually tell me that there was a "Knock" or a voltage test to confirm i am getting readings. If i clear the CEL, she runs awesome! until it comes back in 10 min. HeLp!

Chris-
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#6 Old 11-09-2011, 07:29 PM
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If the splice was poorly done, it could cause an intermittent signal. Also, since the wire is shielded twisted-pair, if it wasn't done right, the sensor could pick up noise.
The sensor output is in the milli-Volt range and could be monitored by an oscilloscope or a good voltmeter (an old analog type would make it easier to see). To test it without removing it you have to tap in at the ECM.

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#7 Old 11-09-2011, 07:58 PM
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knock sensor

Thanks Fourwd1. I didn't realize it was shielded. So if we r talking milivolts then this "knock" could be me drumming on the steering wheel!?.... Or better yet.... The Cel first came on a few yrs ago when I went 6inches up and put some meat on the wheels. Vibration,humming, and some steering vibrations are noticeable. Any chance the sensor can pic up tread?

and changing a sensor or faking one out is all I have read..... What is the real fix? run super gas? I'm not a mechanic.... So what makes my 130k knock?
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#8 Old 11-10-2011, 12:30 AM
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Chris3504,

I have heard of some people having the same issue and after everything was changed, it finaly came down to moving the knock sensor to another part of the block and all the problems went away. And it just may be interferance from the tires and by moving the sensor to another location that had a liittle less interferance might just work fine.
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#9 Old 11-10-2011, 06:22 AM
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Thanks Jet. So it sounds like this may or may not be an engine problem.so far, all the posts I have read on this topic have only mentioned cheats and fixes but no one mentions fuel or a bad engine. Is this sensor just epoxied to the engine or does it have a threaded home? Thanks for all the help guys. I took the truck out last night with the code reader attached to reset the Cel.I haven't been able to smoke these big tires in years.... And if I can change the 13mpg hwy and city , ill be a rich man.
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#10 Old 11-10-2011, 12:53 PM
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Chris3504,

When you add more vibration than the sensor is used too, then I believe it will senses undo vibration. The same vibration that would cause detonation as in a knock, which if it is enough it gets to the sensor as vibration and thus conditions the engine as to not destroy itself. Now you could have a bad sensor which needs to be replaced first. If that does not fix the problem then I would try to relocate it. I believe it is bolted to the manifold. Which means that by moving it maybe 1" to ??? might just fix the problem. By moving it, it might just be trial and error before you find a spot that it can act normal. The whole idea of the sensor is to detect the vibration that you can not hear or feel so heed some caution as too not locate it too far away, but find a spot that will work. As long as it is on the engine somewhere close I think it will not be a problem. Hamonics change around then motor so moving it might be a good thing. Especially if it runs good until the check engine light comes on. Now as fourwd1 has indicated the wiring must be checked also to eleminate that from the problem.
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#11 Old 11-10-2011, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris3504 View Post
Thanks Jet. So it sounds like this may or may not be an engine problem.so far, all the posts I have read on this topic have only mentioned cheats and fixes but no one mentions fuel or a bad engine. Is this sensor just epoxied to the engine or does it have a threaded home? Thanks for all the help guys. I took the truck out last night with the code reader attached to reset the Cel.I haven't been able to smoke these big tires in years.... And if I can change the 13mpg hwy and city , ill be a rich man.
It's threaded, and you have to do a lot of engine dis-assembly to get to them (there are 2).
Keep in mind, if you are getting the code because there is a real problem causing it, bypassing or faking a good reading will be bad for the engine in the long run.

SEARCH before asking
84 4Runner rockcrawler - ARBed 5.29's, 36" TSLs, dual t-cases w/ 4.7 crawler gear, Chevys, 30 spline Marlins
83 p/u trail rig - Buick 231 V6, Weiand intake, Holley 4 bbl, TH-350 auto w/700R4 low gearset, dual tanks ...
89 4Runner - stock
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#12 Old 11-10-2011, 06:06 PM
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Thanks everyone.moving the sensor around sounds like a lot of work. I'll admit to using the cheap gas as it would cost me 3 gallons to get to a better station.I'm going to run this tank dry and get a quarter of 89 octane. Let that run for a while. I don't hear a knock so I don't know what else to look for.the dealer told me that there was a spliced wire that could be causing it.... Well if they can see its spliced then ill find it and do a check. I saw a YouTube video on how to check the sensor.... Reading ac volts to ground on a single wire sensor. Seems Toyota and Lexus use a tuned, 2 wire sensor so I may have to work a little harder. Well thanks again everyone.... I'll keep you all posted!
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#13 Old 08-11-2012, 09:26 AM
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Knock Sensor Harness

Alright, so finally I got around to pulling the intake manifold off. I ohm out the knock sensor wires and sure enough.... .9ohms... wiggle the wire and Megohms to OL. possibly nailed it. Now i have another problem... Toyota wants $591 for the sensor harness. I cant find it at RockAuto, JCWhitney.... cant find it anywhere but i know ive seen it before for $15ish and guys talk about always replacing the harness even if it checks out good. Please help!
2004 Tundra SR5 2UZ-FE
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