I've got 125000 mostly highway miles. I've got 70000 miles on my tires (Michelin Mud and Snow). I've notices some "cupping" of the tire tread and a "thump, thump" noise as I drive along.....
Is it time for a strut replacement and just worn tires or something else???
Thoughts?
Last edited by CitadelBlue; 10-12-2011 at 02:01 PM.
How old are the tires... rubber is no good after 6-7yrs depending on brand, I see a lot of brands go under and go over that mark before they crack and weather.
Most likely the tires, if you don't experience excessive bounce over potholes and bumps on the road, then it's not the struts/shocks.
Tires are more than 6 years old ....... but I've started replacing the rear shocks ...... I didn't see a top access plate to get to it from inside the cargo area ...... I started using a grinder and realized I was next to the gas tank so .....I'm waiting for a friend to bring over one of those vibrating saws to cut off the top port of the shock mounting rod .... Any TIPS on how to remove the top nut to loosen and remove the REAR shocks??
Most people with rusted truck underbellies end up doing what you are planning with the sawzall. You can get to the nuts from underneath the truck but they are a little difficult. If you can get a socket or wrench on the nut grab the shock body with channel locks and twist the whole shock to back off the nut or break it off.
Most people with rusted truck underbellies end up doing what you are planning with the sawzall. You can get to the nuts from underneath the truck but they are a little difficult. If you can get a socket or wrench on the nut grab the shock body with channel locks and twist the whole shock to back off the nut or break it off.
I did manage to get a socket on the top nut but just couldn't break the nut free ......... in this case sawzall (or in this case Rockwell vibrating saw) was my friend. If anyone else has to do this just remember to cut 'right at' the rubber bumper ...... anything lower will release the fluid inside the shock ......
Steps to replace front struts (actually coil-over shocks) on 2002 Toyota 4Runner:
(1) Jack up the front of the 4Runner and remove BOTH front wheels.
(2) Remove the 2 (two) nuts (one on each side of the car) that connect the anti-sway bar to the front suspension. You can now push out the link by your thumb (or by LIGHTLY tapping on the link with a wooden mallet.
(3) Spray some penetrating oil on the nuts and bolts that connect the strut assembly to the suspension (one nut at the top center of the strut, three nuts at the top of the strut connecting the strut to the suspension, and one nut at the bottom of the strut).
(4) Loosen, but do not remove, the three nuts that hold the strut to the top of the suspension. DO NOT remove the center nut at the top of the strut. This nut retains the coil spring onto the strut assembly and is under some serious pressure. You could be seriously injured if you remove this nut at this time.
(5) Remove the large nut at the bottom of the strut and slid the strut off from the lower mounting stud. You may need to use some pressure to get the strut to slide off completely.
(6) Now remove the three nuts holding the strut to the suspension at the top of the strut. Note that one nut is actually the third point of the triangle and is out of sight and located "behind" the center strut nut. Although not visible from sitting in the wheel well, you can reach around the opening between the top of the strut and the body (into the engine compartment) and feel the nut and you can get a wrench on it to facilitate removal. Once these nuts are out you can remove the strut by lowering it and feeding it out between the suspension components.
7) I purchased the Monroe "Quick Strut" and replaced the entire assembly.
Note: Its a bear to get the NEW strut and spring assembly in place. Wedging a crow bar and piece of wood above the lower "A" frame was the solution ......
Best of luck ......
Ken
FINAL NOTES: Make darn sure you have the spring compressed before you remove the center nut. You could be seriously injured if you fail to follow this step. Total time would be 3 hours for both sides without power tools, or 2 hours with power tools. Also, when removing and installing the struts, a second person would be nice the have so they can push on the suspension to allow for bolt/nut alignment.
Its been 2+ months since I replaced the 4 struts/shocks on my 2002 4Runner. The front is now riding higher and/or the rear a little lower ..... Could anyone with the original struts and shocks measure the distance from the the ground to the bottom of the front and rear fenders.
I'm still riding a bit high up front as well as "listing" to the left (left side is up 35 inches, right side up 36 inches and the rear is lower .......
If I loosen/tighten the front sway bar (since I had to loosen the nuts that attached to the lower control arm to install the front struts .... will that adjust the "listing" of the front of my 4Runner .... and what do I have to do loosen or tighten?
I have no experience with the Monroe Quick struts. Were they marked specifically for driver side or pass? From what I remember they are not adjustable so I don't think there's anything you can do.
You replaced the rear shocks but not the springs correct? Your rear springs are probably sagging if they are original. It's common on 4runners. You can probably get some new stock springs fairly cheap or if you wanted some spacers to go on top.
The front struts where a bit longer than the ones I took off so I had to loosen the front sway bar nuts, insert the strut and then use the jack to reinsert the sway bar . I did NOT remove the sway bar mounts ......
I don't believe adjusting the sway bar will have any effect on the height. The quick struts have probably put you back at new stock height and your rear is probably sagging due to old springs.
The only thing you can do is lift the rear back up to stock height with either new springs or spacers.
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