i've got 45,000 miles on my 05 4runner, and i can't find a repair manual. any surprises doing a brake pad replacement? my only experience was with my 97 rav4.
i've got 45,000 miles on my 05 4runner, and i can't find a repair manual. any surprises doing a brake pad replacement? my only experience was with my 97 rav4.
I changed my pads at about 50k on my '05. Really is a piece of cake, no surprises at all. Disconnect the brake-line and ABS wire (so not to get damaged when removing the caliper, you are NOT opening the hydraulic line, just disconnecting the line/wire so the caliper can be moved to the side), then remove two caliper mounting bolts (leave old pads as is) and slide caliper off and support off the ground. With the old pads still intact, use a C clamp to press the 4 pistons back flush (you may have to go back and forth to get all the pistons back). After all 4 pistons are fully pressed back into the caliper, pull the little cotter pins off the end of the two alignment pins (4 inches long) and slide the two pins out. This will release the two pads with the 2 squeal spacers per pad (4 squeal spacers and 2 pads) and the return spring (to keep the pads apart). Take off the squeal spacers and put them on the new pads and slide them in the caliper. Carefully position/slide the 4 spacers and the 2 pads in the caliper and slide the top pin back in. After the top pin is in, it will align all the spacers and pad holes so you can insert the return spring and slide the bottom pin in. Replace the cotter pins, separate the pads and slide the caliper back in place (on rotors) and insert the top mounting bolt. Torque everything to spec and your set. Takes about a 1/2 hour total.
I agree with Mcwood's response. As a matter of fact, I used his info to do mine and he was pretty much right on the money. My 05 had 51k and my mechanic told me I needed new front pads. Rotors were fine. Remove the lug nuts with a (22 mm?) 6 point socket. I've found that using a breaker bar with a 1/2" drive socket works well and keeps the torque nice and direct, for easy removal.
I've done brakes on other vehicles and this one was quite easy. I removed the cap from master cyl to allow expansion. To detach the caliper from the wheel hub, you will need a good 6 point (17mm?) socket on a breaker bar. Getting these loose was the most challenging part, as this was the first time for breaks. I think the manual recommends 90 foot pounds torque! On my other vehicle (95 explorer) the brake line is ridgid except for the last 6 inches flexible. This makes it a bit easier to brakes, as I just hang the caliper up out of the way with a coat hanger, when removing the pads from it. On the 4runner the brake lines are ridgid, then flexible, then a small ridgid piece attachs to the caliper. This makes it necessary to remove the line from the caliper to replace the pads, otherwise it would kink. Line came off easily (10 mm I think) and I pushed a small rubber plug into it to stop it from dripping while I removed the pads from the caliper.
There are 2 slide pins that pass through shoes and they have small wire clip thing that goes thru a small hole in the end of the pins. This prevents the pin from sliding out. The clip looks like a twisted paperclip. Also note the anti-squeel clip (flat butterfly shaped piece of flat steel) that goes between the two shoes. It "wraps" around the lower slide pin and will be released when slide pin is removed. Slide pins were a little bit dirty, so I was nice to have a 3/8" drift to drive them out. I used some light emmory cloth to clean them up. Remove the 2 anti squeel shims per each pad as they can be reused on the new pads. Be sure to use break quiet "greese" goop. I got a bottle at Advance Auto with enough to do many jobs. It's a light red color and squeezes out like wood glue from the bottle. It will set up in 10 min enough to reassemble. I think it firms up even more with time/heat from the shoes. The rotors came off without effort, to I chipped off any loose rust/scale and put antiseeze around the mating surface before replacing it. Explorer discs always rust froze to the hub, so I tend to be paranoid about this. Clean the rotor with brake cleaner.
Be sure the break line hole is pointed away from any painted surfaces or other areas you don't want coated with break fluid, before you compress the pads/pistons. Just taping the pins free with the drift caused it to squirt out fluid. My old pads had about 3/8" material left and the new ones have about 1/2" material. I checked it with the caliper, but can't remember exact measurements. Reassembly is the reverse of removal. Be sure to use slide greese on the slide bolts. It's of course easier to rebolt the caliper to the axle hub before reattaching the breakline. Don't forget to remove any plug from the line if you used one. After attaching it, open the bleeder screw and have assistant pump pedal until you purge out all the air (same 10mm wrench). Tighten it down and have them pump pedal to set the shoes.
Good Luck.....piece of cake!
Ted
I will be needing to change my pads after the snow melts I am not sure about rotors, but have thought about installing some vented ones if I need to change them. Does anyone have any recommendations for rotors? Brands, where to purchase? Any to stay away from?
Thanks!
__________________ Tony
'08 Tacoma AC TRD OR 4X4 - Stock...for now
'04 4Runner Sport 4X4 - basicly stock
When you say vented are you talking about cross drilled high performance type, or just vented like stock ones (when you look at the disc edge, it is slotted to allow air flow and I think feedback to wheel speed sensors)
I luckily didn't have to replace my rotors (51,000 miles) and I believe they are original and they are vented. I never thought of going with anything other than stock for rotors. My original pads lasted 51,000 so that made the choice an easy one when I replaced them.
If yours is like my 05, after of course removing the caliper, the rotor should just pull right off. The calipers and most largely, the lug nuts are what hold the rotors on. My 95 Ford explorer used a similar design, but used to rust the rotors in place because the center hole in the rotors fit tightly around the center hub of the axle. To prevent this I used to coat the center hole with anti-seeze compound. On the Toy the fit didn't seem to be as tight. It pulled off easily, and this was the first time they were removed (51k on the truck).
Oh, one last thought: Are you replacing bad rotors? If yes, you might have to coax them off using a shot filled hammer to work them loose. I once had to resort to a large 5 pound sledge hammer on my fords rotors, and they still remained stuck. A friend with an Oxy-Acetylene torch applied a little heat to the rotor near the center hub, and expansion popped it free. That's when I started using the anti-seeze.
This thread has not been written to in awhile. I would like ask a couple questions.
Prior to winter, I replaced the rear rotors & pads. The internal drum parking brake proved to be a bit challenging, but once I figured it out, nothing too bad.
The front rotors? I planned to also replace these pads and rotors also. Unfortunately, I was on a tight schedule and ran out of time. Spring is finally here and I would like to get back to completing this job. These 2005 4Runner limited brakes are somewhat different than the VW or Nissan brakes I have previously worked on. The hard brake line? Above suggests the line doesn't require opening? I don't understand this statement. It appears as though the line must be disconnected. This will allow air to get into the line requiring subsequent bleeding?
The other challenge I have with these brakes is regarding that $%^& slider rod passing through the brake pads? I was able to break the pads free but was not able to actually coax the sliders from the callipers. No amount of puling or hammering would remove these. I did not want to mushroom the ends so I stopped and put everything back together. Is there a trick to removing these, or will I be forced to cut them out and buy replacements?
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I am not sure about rotors, but have thought about installing some vented ones if I need to change them. Does anyone have any recommendations for rotors? Brands, where to purchase? Any to stay away from?
I'll give it try this weekend...supposed to nice out!
Removing Rotors
Linear Mode
