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1st Generation (1998-2003) Discussion area for the first generation Toyota Sienna.

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Old 03-10-2011, 10:23 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Gen1 PCV Valve and Side Mirror

Hello,

This is my first post on the forum.

We bought a 2003 Toyota Sienna recently. The vehicle has almost 160K miles on it.
As far as I can see from the maintenance records, the OCIs were very long (last two OCIs were 10K miles although they said they changed oil every 5K miles before that) with conventional oil and cheap filters. I do not think the previous owner has replaced the PCV valve at all.

I do not know if it has sludge or not. I hope it does not. I changed the oil and filter a few days after I bought the van. I used Mobil 1 5W-30 High Mileage oil and NAPA Gold 1348 filter.

I also got Haynes manual right after purchasing Sienna. I see that it does not cover much, it does not give specific step by step instructions in places I need them.

I want to replace the PCV valve, the manual does not have a photo of the area and the PCV valve itself and does not have step by step instructions. I ordered the Toyota PCV valve. I just need step by step instructions as to how to do it. On my Geo Prizm it is in plain sight and a job that takes a few seconds at most to replace the PCV valve.

I also broke the passenger side mirror backing out of the garage. I have an aftermarket replacement mirror but I have never done this before. Is it an easy job?
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Old 03-10-2011, 08:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I have a 2003 Sienna also.
Here is a link to a folder of pictures of projects that I have done with it.
http://rides.webshots.com/album/5765...navtype=search

One of the first things that I did was to replace the PCV valve.
It is metal, and screws into the rear valve cover.......the 2002 and earlier use the traditional press-in type, but have it in the same location.
The PCV valve location is hard to see.....I tried to show it in one of the first pictures.
Passenger side of the rear valve cover.
Also hard to get to.......easy to replace except that you need a wrench and you can only move the PCV valve a little bit with each turn due to space.

I use a slightly larger oil filter as I show in one of the pictures.
Napa Gold would be a 1516, as it is the same as WIX 51516 (NG is made by WIX).
All the dimensions are the same, except it is slightly longer (more media).

I have a subscription to AlldataDIY for my 2003 Sienna.
I also located a set of GENUINE TOYOTA repair manuals, specific to the 2003 Sienna (2 volumes) plus a GENUINE TOYOTA Electrical manual (1 volume).

I have not messed with the exterior mirrors.
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Old 03-14-2011, 01:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Gen1

Thank you for the reply, Wiswind.

What kind of wrench should I use for the PCV?

Wix 51516 seems to be much longer than 51348, looking at its picture on rockauto.
How do you manage putting it on and taking it off when changing the oil and filter? Exhaust manifold is restricting access even to the smaller 51348 filter.

I intend to do a drain&refill on the transmission, this time by myself, not at the dealership. They did not know Toyota specified DEXIII as the only ATF for the vehicle. When I said DEXIII, the service advisor said DEXIII is a coolant.He said they use only Toyota ATF whatever that is.

I asked them to replace the PCV valve when I was there, the same person who wrote the order claimed that it is not a maintenance item. I was really disappointed in the knowledge of Toyota dealership service personnel.

Anyway, I got a Hex key set from Menards yesterday.A metric one which has a 10mm in it. Can I do it with this or should I use a hex socket?

As for ATF I am thinking of adding Redline D4 ATF. Would that cause any leaks because it is synthetic? If it does, my other option is Valvoline Maxlife.
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Old 03-14-2011, 09:52 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Synthetic ATF will not cause leaks.....
I ordered my Redline D4 online through OGRacing......free shipping on orders over $100.
I get my motor oil (Redline) from them as well.
The Mobil 1 oil has a good reputation as well.
The longer 51516 filter fits just fine.....the filter angles only slightly up, no issue with the exhaust manifold.
I have this size on my Sienna right now and do recommend it.
The right size hex key will work for those hex bolts......takes a bit of a twist to get it to move.
I have the hex size and the TOYOTA specified torque specifications in my pictures on webshots
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Old 03-15-2011, 04:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks again Wiswind.
I ordered mine from amazon (same price with ogcracing's) with free shipping too.

I got NPN filters ($3.99) for the next oil change.It seems to be longer than Wix 1348.




How should I apply the specified torque on hex keys?
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Old 03-15-2011, 08:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You would need to use a torque wrench with the proper size bit.
Some people just hand tighten the drain plug.
If you were to remove the pan, using a torque wrench on the pan bolts would be a good idea as it is easy to overtighten them.
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Old 03-16-2011, 04:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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These are the photos of my PCV valve:





When I shake it it rattles, not stuck apparently.
How should I interpret the condition of the engine based on the appearance of the PCV valve?
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Old 03-17-2011, 08:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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If it rattles and air is still able to pass through it, then you should be fine.
Using the Mobil 1 High Mileage oil should clean things up.
Of course, there is no way to really know how clean things are without pulling a valve cover, but I would not take the deposits on the sides of the PCV valve as an indication that you would find that stuff around the camshaft.
The PCV valve is located above a baffel, so it is NOT an area that motor oil splashes.....just vapors get up there.
Conventional oil will create more vapors, and with that, more deposits up there.
Since oil does not splash up there, it does not get cleaned.
I would stick with the routine that you are currently doing.
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Old 03-18-2011, 10:06 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Even if you did consider how dirty the PCV is it's not near as dirty as mine was when I took it out a couple of weeks ago.

Mine looked as if there was hardly enough room for air to pass through it. I shook it and it still rattled. I tested it and the valve still worked in it. All they are is one-way check valves. The new did work a lot better though.

I had my wife stop at the dealership and pick up the PCV and grommet because she was on her way by there. I forgot to ask her how much the thing cost but I think I will put a new one in at more frequent intervals.

Now I have bigger fish to fry. I have to figure out if my new valve cover gaskets are leaking. When I replaced them one of the bolts on the front valve cover was broken off in the head. I was really sad because I didn't even do it. It didn't appear to be leaking before so I put it back together without bolt again. Now I saw so oil that looks like it may be fresh. I need to take it to the car wash and clean out the engine bay. I haven't ever cleaned it out in five years.
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Old 05-11-2011, 11:23 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Hello again,

I was planning to drain transmission fluid and refill today. I have a short Craftsman socket wrench and 10mm. hex socket. I got the drain pan ready, wore the gloves but I could not move the drain plug at all.Last time whoever tightened it toghtened it too much.

How should I loosen it? Will a longer socket wrench be easier? I have not tried hex keys but I guess it would not be any easier than the socket wrench method.
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Old 05-11-2011, 11:41 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Put the 10MM in the hole hold it firmly in one hand and tap it gently but with force with your BFH. This is the redneck impact wrench method. You have to hold the 10MM in the plug firmly because if you bugger the plug you'll have worse problems.

I use this method a lot because it saves my hands. One day I'll get my air compressor online but until then I just put the wrench on and tap it with a hammer. I used this method last week when replacing a wheel stud. I used it to remove the 17MM bolts that hold the caliper bracket on.
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Old 05-11-2011, 03:30 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Sunshine View Post
Put the 10MM in the hole hold it firmly in one hand and tap it gently but with force with your BFH. This is the redneck impact wrench method. You have to hold the 10MM in the plug firmly because if you bugger the plug you'll have worse problems.

I use this method a lot because it saves my hands. One day I'll get my air compressor online but until then I just put the wrench on and tap it with a hammer. I used this method last week when replacing a wheel stud. I used it to remove the 17MM bolts that hold the caliper bracket on.
Thanks for the reply Black Sunshine,

What is BFH?

It seems they tightened it this bad at the Toyota dealership last time. They are supposed to use a torque wrench and torque it to specificed value. And that value does not make it that tight. If dealers do this who are we going to expect to be bound by the manufacturer's recommendations?

I did not tap it because I do not want to break, crossthread...

If I get a bigger socket wrench will it be easier? The one I have is the smallest/shortest socket wrench Craftsman sells. Maybe 6 inch or so.
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
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BFH = Big Hammer.
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Old 05-11-2011, 09:00 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Oh, like Monster BFC. I got it.
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Old 05-19-2011, 01:21 AM   #15 (permalink)
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You might also try PB Blaster and a channel lock wrench. Less chance of stripping if you grip the wrench really tightly.
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