Front brakes 2003

[wiswind]

I replaced the pads and rotors on my 2003 Sienna.
This thread is intended for use ALONG WITH a good repair manual, not in place of one.

I used Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors....about $44 each.
Remember to clean the protective oil off of the rotor before intalling.


I used Akebono ProAct pads, note FF rating stamped on the back. about $47 for the set.
Note that the shims are built in, not 2 separate parts as indicated in the repair manual.


I got a Disk Brake Hardware Kit that includes the anti-rattle clips...about $9.
The kit does not include the slider pin boots which are about $14.

I used Sil-Glyde lubricant that comes in a white tube.

Remove the two 14mm bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket.


Remove caliper and support it so that it is not hanging by the hose.

Remove the two 17mm bolts that hold the bracket in place


Remove, clean, relubricate and install the caliper pins in the bracket.


Install the new slider clips into the bracket.
Each bracket takes 4 clips, each clip is different......4 different clips.
The next 2 pictures show the clips installed in the passenger side bracket.




Lubricate the parts of each pad backing plate that will contact the slider clips, not getting any lubricant onto the friction surface of the pad.
Install the pads into the bracket.

With the new rotors installed, and held in place with at least 1 lug nut at the bottom to keem them from moving, intall the bracket with pads onto the rotor and secure the bracket to the vehicle using the two 17mm bolts.




Either remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder or open the bleeder screw, placing a hose on the bleeder screw to direct the fluid into a container (I used my 1 man bleeder hose & bottle).
Push the caliper piston in using a old brake pad to protect the piston.


Lubricate the caliper piston to pad backing plate and bracket to pad backing plate contact points, then install the caliper onto the pads/bracket.
It will be necessary to push the slider pins in somewhat.
Then secure the caliper to the bracket using the two 14mm bolts.

It would be a good idea to bleed some fluid from the bleeder screw to ensure that you have fresh fluid and remove any contaminates at the caliper.


This thread is not intended to fully cover the brake job.......but to help with pictures to make the repair manual process easier.

[Black Sunshine]

Did you make this for the Knowledge base?

I've found for most vehicles, including my Sienna, that you can change one set of brake pads at a time without the fluid coming out. Change one side, put it all back together and pump the pedal to push the caliper piston back out. Then go change the other side. I've done mine this way for years without losing fluid from the master cylinder.

Does your van not have the annoying 'V' shaped springs that push the pads out from the rotor? Because rust is not a problem here I still have all of the original hardware. I should lubricate the pins next time around.

Are those pads ceramic? I only use ceramic on our van. It still eats them. I'm only on my second set of rotors. I let the front brakes go until they start to make a little grinding then I change them out immediately.

[wiswind]

I wanted to post this as I thought it would be helpful to others.
I had seen some pictures on the internet, but not pictures that clearly show the anti-rattle clips.
Of course, I'm dependant upon the person who did the brake job before me......and I don't know if they replaced the anti-rattle clips (support plate in the factory diagrams) or not......I'm thinking maybe not.
These "support plates" are what the pads actually ride on in the bracket......so they are a bit critical.

They did not install the "wear indicator" clip that goes on the inner pads.
I did not install it either.

The factory instructions say to remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder and to compress the caliper piston, pushing the fluid back up into the master cylinder.
I chose to open the bleeder screw instead and connect the hose for my "One Man Bleeder" bottle.....and to push the fluid out the bleeder screw instead.
Then, once everything was back together, I bled some more fluid out the bleeder screw.
My intent was to end up with fresh fluid at the caliper.
The factory instructions save time, but don't flush the old fluid at the caliper.
When I bought this vehicle......I bled some fluid at each wheel......and the first one to two bottles of fluid that I pushed out was dark.......and the fluid in the master cylinder was not dark.
I have done this on another vehicle with the same results.

The pads are ceramic and you are correct, that is the way to go if you want to be in line with what came from the factory.
Akebono is a top notch pad.
You can get pads on RockAuto for under $10 right now, the Akebono pads are over $46.
I have used them in the past, and they are a very good pad.

I figure that I saved the labor cost by doing the job myself.
I wanted to use high quality parts, and hopefully have better performance and less problems.
It has worked well for me in the past.

The Toyota repair manual does not show any springs that push the pads back from the rotor, and I did not have them.
The Raybestos Disk Hardware Kit did have some, but I did not use them as they are not shown on the factory digrams and I did not have them.

The factory repair manual DOES show a inner and outer anti-squeal shim on each pad.
The Akebono pads have the anti-squeal shims already mounted on each pad, as shown in my picture.

[Black Sunshine]

Do you put lots of 'goopy' stuff on the pads to keep them from squealing? I've put it all over the rear of the pads and the anti-rattle clips and they still squeal. My pads came with the shims on them as well. I'm thinking I really need to lube those pins.

[wiswind]

I lubricated the caliper piston to pad location and the bracket to pad location with the same lube that I used on the slider pins and the support plates (the slider clips).

Of course, care must be taken to avoid getting lube onto the friction surfaces.

This is the first time that I have used the Sil-Glyde brand of stuff.....it is not tacky like the Permatex stuff I have used before.
Sil-Glyde got some good recommendations on another forum that I visit a lot....for holding up over the long run.....not drying out.....so I thought I would give it a try.
I check my front brakes a couple times a year (each tire rotation), so I will be able to monitor it to see how it does.
Some brands of pad and/or rotor may be more prone to squealing?
Mine are super quiet......and whatever had been put on before was also super quiet.

[Black Sunshine]

Squealing is, if there is nothing mechanically wrong, is strictly the pads wiggling. I'm thinking that the pads wiggling can cause the caliper to wiggle too making the pins squeal too.

Where can you get the Sil-Glyde? What's the other forum you frequent? My other car is a Mercury Grand Marquis and I'm a member of CrownVic.net. I used to be a member of NASIOC when I had a Subaru. I miss my Subaru. I cut my forum teeth at Allpar.

[wiswind]

I got my Sil-Glyde at Autozone, but it is sold at other places as well.
I used the Akebono pads and Rabestos Advanced Technology rotors on my Ford Windstar and they were very quiet on that vehicle, and did a great job for me.

[TierOneSupplier]

Great write-up, and timely, too! I need to service our front brakes soon and I'll study this again beforehand.

You mentioned using Akebono -- their plant is about a mile away from me. Sometimes I drive by there and smell that "hot brakes" smell and I start getting worried until I realize it's coming from Akebono and not my van.