How To Replace A Steering Rack N Pinion On A 2001 Toyota Sienna
Tools Needed:
3/8 Ratchet, ¼ Ratchet
10mm, 12mm, 17mm, 19mm (3/8 Socket)
22mm Wrench
6mm or ¼ Hex Key Socket
Pliers (Long Nose, Regular)
Long Pry Bar
Lug Wrench 21mm
Hydraulic Jack & Jack Stands
Drain Pan
Torch (Optional)
Can Of PB Blaster
Difficulty:
Moderate Average Time:
1 1/2 Hour’s
Note: I Suggest Replacing The Sway Bar End Links If They Are Very Rusted And Don’t Want To Budge While Removing Them. I normally do these on a lift so it may be a bit more time consuming doing it on your back. Sorry about no pics guys. Next time I have one of these sienna’s in I’ll take some pics of the components. Always make sure to look at the new part. It will give you a good idea of where everything is and how many lines and thing’s you have to remove.
Step 1: If you don’t have air tools, break your lug nut’s loose and jack up the vehicle on both sides as high as you can and place jack stands under each side. Set your e-brake.
Step 2: Drench the upper sway bar end link nuts with PB blaster then let it sit for 15 min
Step 3: Center And Lock Your Steering Wheel. (I normally wrap the seat belt around it to hold it, but it’s better if you have a steering wheel holder.
Step 4: Use the 22mm wrench to crack the jam nut loose on the tie rod. (This helps with removal once the rack is out Remove the cotter pin from your outer tie rod’s and remove the 17mm bolts.
Step 5: Removing the outer tie rod can be performed in a few ways. If you have a special tool then great, but I’m assuming the regular DIY’R does not. Get a Hammer and bang on the side of the spindle where the tie rod connects a few times to jar the tie rod loose, then just pop it out and let it hang.
Step 6: This can be real aggravating. I’ve had to cut off Sway Bar End links off before because the hex head strips from extreme rust. As I said before let it soak a while with PB Blaster. 2 ways to do this, the best way is with an impact gun and a pry bar, but it’s not the only way.
Air Tool Way:
Get a pry bar and force backwards pressure onto the sway bar link. You want to push the bar away from you not towards you. While your giving pressure try removing it with your gun by giving it repeated taps. Don’t free spin it as it wont work as well
Hand Way:
After it soaks a while, get yourself a 3/8 Ratchet and 6mm or ¼ inch hex key (both work, but 6mm might strip it if it‘s on real tight) and a 17mm wrench. Put the closed side of the wrench on the bolt then put your hex socket on. Remove the nut by turning the wrench and keeping pressure with the hex socket. If it’s stubborn heat it up with a torch. Once it’s off just let it hang back.
Step 7: Look on the top of the rack where the intermediate shaft and yoke connect. You will see a 12mm pinch bolt. It should be accessible on the driver side as long as you have the steering wheel centered. Remove that bolt then get a pry bar and hammer and give the intermediate shaft a few taps upwards to remove it from the yoke. If your wondering what the yoke is, it's the little stub sticking out of the rack with splines.
MAKE SURE YOUR WHEEL IS LOCKED!!
Step 8: Crawl under the van. You will see 2 lines going into the rack. Disconnect the hose clamps on both lines with pliers. Don’t worry about the hard line fitting on the bottom bolted into the rack just remove the clip holding the rubber hose with pliers and let it drain. Once it’s all drained move to the next step.
Step 9: You will see 2 tube clamps. They are little keeper’s that hold the 2 lines together. One on the driver side and one towards the passenger side. The driver side is held on by a 10mm bolt. I usually use a 1/4 ratchet with a 10mm socket to remove it. Once that’s off you will see a bracket on the passenger side that bolts into the top of the rack with another 10mm bolt. Remove it and save your parts.
Step 10: This is where it get’s kind of tricky, but you can do it! You need to drop the sub frame a bit. To do this, first get your hydraulic jack with a piece of wood and jack it up under the center cross member (It’s right under the rack it’s a flat piece of steel that goes on one side to another.). Once you have pressure on it you will see 2 brackets on the side. You will have 3 (14mm) bolts and one big (19mm) bolt. Remove the small one’s first then the big one on each side. BE VERY CAREFUL PLEASE. Make sure your safety is number 1 on this. As long as you have a good jack you should be okay. Once you remove the brackets, carefully lower the jack a few inches. Normally on the sienna’s you will see 2 big black rubber stoppers on the subframe. These get stuck after a while just get your pry bar and give it a little pry and you will see your sub frame drop. You need to drop it maybe 4-6 inches. Once it’s dropped put a jack stand under the cross member as well for extra safety for yourself.
Step 11: Remove the sway bar bolts by unbolting 4 (12mm) bolts (2 on each side). You just need to remove them to give you access to the rack bushing bolts. Once removed move it out of the way and look straight into the rack and you will see cross bushing bolts that hold the rack to the frame. Your going to need a 19mm socket and ratchet and a 15mm wrench I believe to hold the nut on the other side. Remove the bolt on both sides, then your rack is free.
Step 12: Wiggle the rack out from the driver’s side. This can be a little bit of a pain, but you can do it!
Step 13: When the rack is out, you will have to transfer a couple part’s from the old rack to the new one. You will see a metal fitting on the bottom hole just remove that with a 15mm wrench I believe ( I may be wrong on the size.) You should get new o-rings with the rack, replace the o-ring on that fitting and screw it into the new rack. Also transfer the little bracket from the old rack on the right side to the new rack. Finally get pliers and move the top shaft into the same position the old one is in. You will see 2 dot’s just match them. Don’t worry about the outer tie rods right now.
Step 14: Fit the rack back in and position your bushing holder bolts in and tighten them. Put your sway bar bolt’s back and tighten. Don’t over tighten these, you will see they are very easy to remove so snug them up only.
Step 15: Jack the sub frame up enough where the rubber stoppers are pressing onto the frame and install your bolt’s back on. I normally put my gun on the 19mm bolt. The torque is over 100ft lbs so make sure the 19mm bolt is tight.
Step 16: Once you’re your sub frame is up, go ahead and install your lines and clamps back and also your keeper brackets.
Step 17: Put your sway bar end link bolt’s back on.
Step 18: Make sure you pay attention to these next 2 steps. Remove the outer tie rod’s from the old rack and install on the new rack. Give the outer tie rod 13-14 turns on the new inner tie rods and position them back into the spindle. Make sure both side’s are equal for alignment purposes. Once you do that put the tie rod bolt’s back on then throw your wheel’s on and torque them to 85ft lbs.
Step 19: This step is so crucial. Before you do anything else, make sure you straighten your wheels and put them as center as you can. I don’t mean the steering wheel. Grab onto your driver side wheel and position it as center as you can. Once you know they are centered the best you can then put the yoke back on the shaft and tighten the 12mm bolt. Now your almost done!
Step 20: The power steering fluid in the Sienna is Standard transmission fluid. Fill it to the top, then start the van and turn the wheel once left to right then turn it off and re add fluid. It will suck fluid down twice. After you got fluid in it. Turn your wheel from lock to lock 20 times with the cap off to remove the air from the system. It should take 1qt of fluid.
Step 21: Take it to the alignment! Make sure you do this ASAP to prevent tire wear.
Step 22: Drink A Case Of Beer. Very Important Step!!
I wrote this incase anyone ever needed direction in tackling such a job and saving some money. This should be the same process with all 1st gen sienna's. Good luck and feel free to ask me any questions
Here is a link to a diagram for this car.
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Linear Mode
