Need help with a Sienna ABS/tire pressure sensor

[Potter]

Had a dash ABS light come on with a code referring to a rear wheel sensor, and found this part dangling by it's wire behind the rear passenger brake drum:



Part of the outside lip cracked off, as can be seen in the photo.

It's clear where it came from. Can I simply glue it back in place, or what's the right thing to do?

I couldn't see into the hole it came from, and couldn't feel what the contacts touch. What should be in the hole?

[ToyoGuard]

That looks like a piece of the ABS connector that came off the wheel hub. You cant glue that on. All the contacts are bent. Where is the hole? In back of the drum in the center?

[Potter]

Yes, it's from the center of the rear of the drum.

I thought the outer contacts were part of whatever holds it in place. The center contacts look fine, but how it works is puzzling. I haven't been able to find any explanation of this online, and help is appreciated.

[ToyoGuard]

Replace the wheel hub bearing. It's about $150 bucks. You cant glue it back on, it wouldn't work properly. That hub bearing has the ABS sensor built into it. Once it's diconnected the way your's is, it's toast and needs replacing. Your light should shut off after you replace it

[clanofwolves]

Originally Posted by ToyoGuard

Replace the wheel hub bearing. It's about $150 bucks. You cant glue it back on, it wouldn't work properly. That hub bearing has the ABS sensor built into it. Once it's disconnected the way yours is, it's toast and needs replacing. Your light should shut off after you replace it

I really like your knowledge on this rear wheel ABS subject, could you look at my most recent post "Rear wheel speed sensor problem!! clanofwolves"
regarding something like this to insure it's the same issue?? Thanks in advance!!

[Potter]

It looks like the part just press fits in, and we can easily straighten out the circumference pins.

Can you explain how this works and/or why it can't just be re-secured?

[clanofwolves]

Got a question: if the sensor is intact but sending a bad signal to the ABS 'brain' ...what can I do to repair it? Is it possible? Need to replace it with the whole bearing assembly?

Thanks!

[Potter]

How do you know it has a bad signal? Could be a bad connection somewhere, too.

I've heard that Timken provided the assemblies to Toyota (like Denso supplies to Toyota) and the Timken assemblies can be had for a lot less than the Toyota. Safe bet to use a Timken?

[clanofwolves]

Originally Posted by Potter

How do you know it has a bad signal? Could be a bad connection somewhere, too.

I checked the connectors first; best I could tell following the wires: there's one connector at the hub and another nearer the center/other hub that then takes the wiring towards the front of the van. All connectors looked great and I couldn't find a problem. Guess I could ohm out the wiring from the 'brain' to the 'hub' ...ever messed with the 'brain's' connectors? My diagram in my Haynes manual is a simple axonometric without details or photos. hummmmm?

[Potter]

I'm sending you a PM with a link the ABS diagnostics and schematics for the car
.

[Potter]

Originally Posted by ToyoGuard

Replace the wheel hub bearing. It's about $150 bucks. You cant glue it back on, it wouldn't work properly. That hub bearing has the ABS sensor built into it. Once it's diconnected the way your's is, it's toast and needs replacing. Your light should shut off after you replace it

After cleaning the part up, straightening the few bent pins with a magnifying lens and spraying everything with electrical cleaner, I prepped the axle a bit (not really much to do with all that rust) and "primed" the part of the bearing assembly this part contacts with thinned epoxy glue. When that set, I applied JB Weld on the outer perimeter of the flange of the part that fell off and pressed it into place where it fell out of. After that set, I went around the perimeter with a second layer of JB Weld just to fill in any gaps I couldn't see which might let water or dirt in.

A soldering brush (like for plumbing) was an ideal tool for smearing adhesives.

It works great! Saved hundreds by salvaging the part, too.

Aftermarket axle bearings are about $150, the OEM is $400. After a lot of problems with aftermarket parts, I'm willing to pay the premium for the OEM.

Something caused it to fall off and it just might do that again. Time will tell, but for now it's a pleasure to have the ABS back and the dash lights out.

[SiennaDriver]

Well done!