Just got a 2001 Sienna XLS with a problem

[jared_801]

Well as you can see it's broken. That's why I got it cheap.


Other than this the van is in good shape. After I remove the valve cover I'll have a better idea of the damage. I've been told the 1MZ-FE VVT-i is an interference engine so I may need to rebuild or replace the engine. I found a replacement for about $1500.

[ToyoGuard]

Wow, that's bad lol. Yeah, you will be better off swapping with a used engine then trying to mess with the cams and valves

[jared_801]

Well I pulled it out










Cams are not that big of deal. I rebuilt and MR2 Turbo that has the 3sgte engine and that looks about the same. I'll need a new camshaft, bearing cap and camshaft timing pulley. I may need to get some new shims.

I'll take the whole cylinder head down the the machine shop to have them clean all the parts. I'm not sure if the pistons were damaged. I'll start with the cheap stuff then pull the engine if I can't get it running by changing these few parts.

Oh does anyone know how to the wiring disconnected from the valve cover? There are two screws with what looks like round nuts. There doesn't seem to be anything to grip onto.

[jared_801]

I'm about 5 hours into it now and I've got the cylinder head off. The pistons are in good shape. A bit of carbon build up and some anti-freeze spilled on piston #6. So now that I now there was no physical damage I'll move forward with just fixing the top half.

I learned that a bad bearing cap means I need to replace the whole cylinder head. I've called around to a few places and found a rebuilt head with all the internals ready to bolt on for $350 shipped.

[wiswind]

I'm no expert on motors, but it looks like the failure could have been caused by a lack of lubrication to that last camsaft bearing.
I see signs of heat on that timing belt pulley hub and it looks all black around that last bearing.

[jared_801]

The problem does seem to be from a lack of oil causing it to overheat. I've talked with one mechanic that thinks the problem may have been in the cylinder head. I ordered a new one from Odessa Cylinderhead for $350. Should have it by the end of next week.

[jared_801]

I'm trying to pull off the crank shaft pulley. I've was using a 3/8 socket with an extender and a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter to a breaker bar. Broke the extender. Then I used the 3/8 adapter and breaker bar. Broke the adapter. So I tried just the 3/8 socket, 3/8 socket wrench a pipe for extra leverage. I broke the 3/8 socket wrench. Ahhhh. Tools have a warranty so I'll replace them but man I can't believe this. I am turning it counter clock wise. What is up. I'm going to get a 1/2 socket and wrench to see if that works.

[wiswind]

While you are at it....once you get things in order in the front bank of cylinders.
I would remove the rear valve cover and make sure that all is well back there.
Since you are all the way down to it at this point.....might as well check it out and correct any issue(s) that you might find.
One thing that can happen is sludge/crud buildup between the valve cover top and the baffel, blocking airflow through the PCV valve.......if it is blocked up. the TOTOTA solution is to replace the valve cover.
Also, I would install a new PCV valve back there.

The correct OEM coolant is TOYOTA RED long life, not the PINK Super Long Life.
Of course, you are looking at a new timing belt at this point.
Some folks replace the water pump when they replace the timing belt because the water pump is driven by the timing belt, so the water pump job is all the labor of a timing belt job.
Also verify that the pulleys and tensioner are in good shape.

I don't have advice on the crank shaft pulley.
In fact, the timing belt job is one that I left to someone who knows what they are doing (which is not me).

Maybe a subscription to AlldataDIY would be of help to you?
It is basically the factory repair manual online, with all the TSBs listed, and constantly updated.
They list the factory instructions, including the torque values when you put things back.

For my 2003 1MZFE motor, they call for a Special Service Tool (SST) to be used to remove and install the crank shaft pulley..... SST 09213-54015 (91651-60855), 09330-00021

The bolt tighten torque specification is 159 ft.lbs for that bolt, so I can understand that it is a bugger.

The instructions for the timing belt replacement (which include removing that pulley) are many and complicated.....so a good repair manual is a MUST if you are going to do it on your own.

Take note that there is a Recall......for the cable that holds the spare tire under the back of the vehicle.
It is a FREE inspection/repair.

[jared_801]

wiswind: thanks for the input.
I've got a FSM so I have some idea of what I'm doing.

I used a 1/2 inch socket on my breaker bar and still no luck. It won't budge one bit. I'm going to get a torch in the bolt Friday night and see if that helps. If that doesn't work I'm cutting it off.

[jared_801]

I took a small torch to the crank shaft pulley bolt and finally got it off. I had to keep the torch on there for about 5 minutes. I'm so excited to finally be able to get some work done.

[wiswind]

I can imagine......159 ft. lbs. factory torque....and then all these years to corrode etc into place.

The Special Service Tool will be shown in the FSM (Factory Service Manual for others reading this).
It looks to be something to keep the crankshaft from turning while you are yanking at that bolt.

It is good to know that you have a FSM......and as such, you can see that there are a LOT of steps to changing the timing belt....and you are doing a lot more than that!!!

I will add another note....and I have not checked this on my 2003 Sienna yet.
I see in your pictures that you have the VVT (Variable Valve Timing).
That is the fat part on the gear on the driver's side of the intake camshaft.
Inside each head, there is a small screen filter for each of those VVT phasers.
The phasers use motor oil to move the phase of the intake camshaft, relative to the exhaust camshaft.
You turn the bolt part on the end to turn them out of the driver' side face of the side of the head.
If, by chance, you find these to be clogged, they are cheap to buy.
I don't know the availability of them, but they are listed and not expensive.

[jared_801]

Help! I pulled the cylinder head cover off the back side and noticed the rubber seals that go between the cover and a inter plate are torn. The inter plate does not seam to be removeable. The torn rubber seals are in the holes that the ignition coils go through. I tried using a screw driver to dig the broken seal out and only part of it came out. Can the plate be removed or do I need to order an new cylinder head cover?

I think it may be the spark plug tube gasket. Do i just need to dig harder to get all the parts out? It seem wedged in there pretty good.

[jared_801]

Here is a quick write up on how to remove the spark plug tube gaskets.

Do one side at a time so have a reference for which way they go back in.

1. Clean Your Parts
This makes it a lot easier. I take a load of parts at once to be cleaned. They are cheap, easy and do a great job.

2. Bend Back Tabs
There are small tabs help hold the gasket in. Using a flat head screwdriver bend then back a little bit.

3. Remove Inter Gasket
The gasket will break apart but that is ok. Remove the inter part so you can get leverage under the gasket. There is wire inside, just pull enough out to get under the gasket.





4. Remove The Gasket
Now you can get you screw diver down under and pop it out. It did not take much pressure to pop it out.

[jared_801]

Well I got it up and running. Kind of. It idles very low then dies. I while idling is sounds like there is a vacuum leak. That would cause this low idle problem. It drives fine when I did a road test but it can't idle.

The other possibility could be low compression / leak in the right / rear cylinders or head. When I was putting the timing belt on and rotating the crankshaft I noticed the tension would go up followed by a hissing sound then the tension would be released. I don't know if this i normal but it doesn't seem to be. Also there is a lot of grease and oil build up the rear of the engine. This make me think a gasket may have blown and is causing a oil and compression leak.

I need to bleed the brakes. Then I'll run it done to my buddies shop and put it on a lift. I'll be able to see the rear of the engine (right cylinder head).

Worse case I'll pull the engine to get the right cylinder head. It seemed too much of a hassle to try and work on the right side while it's in the car.

[grandpapa]

for idle issue, you may want to clean the IAC valve, seems to be very common problem for the v6 (at least for the camry). Just a thought.