Re-post:
I had wanted to do this two years ago but it looked like more of a hassle than it was worth. But now I see threads talking about leaking PS racks and thats all it took to get me started. So this isn't rocket science but neither was it a cut an splice easy install.
A little background. If you have seen my trans cooler install you know I am a fan of the Magnefine filter. It has a paper filter element like an oil filter, a rare earth magnet to collect all sizes of steel fragments and a internal bypass safety valve if the filter should ever clog.
The filter of choice has 3/8" ports.
When you first look at the factory return hose, you will see it come up from the frame rail in a steel line then transition to a rubber 45* bent hose that connects to the resevior. You cant simply cut the hose and install the filter because of the angle. You cannot use a length of rubber hose because the turn is too tight and when the hose heats up from use, it will kink restricting the fluid flow. So I needed a way to route the fluid in a tight 180* turn without affecting the flow rate. The best choice was a steel brake line 12" long from the auto parts store. I have a tube bending hand tool which comes in handy for jobs like this. When you buy the 3/8" steel line it will have two flare nuts. Just cut off the tube ends and remove them. The flared ends will not fit in rubber hose anyway.
parts list:
Magnefine filter $15
12" steel brake line 3/8" dia $5
16" transmission hose 3/8" dia. $3
4-6 worm gear hose clamps $3
1 Qt ATF dex merc II or III
1" carriage bolt and nut
1 - 3/4" restraining clamp
To start, I emptied the resevoir into a large ziplock bag by disconnecting the return hose from the resevoir port. Point the factory rubber hose down into th bag as well. The factory hose will remain attached to the steel line down by the frame rail. The Asian car makers use metric so the resevior port is actually .5mm bigger than 3/8". I warmed the new transmission hose so it would install easier and pushed it all the way on. I left the full length of hose hang from the resevior for now. Hose clamp it in place to the resevoir with the new hose clamp. I cut the ends off the new steel line off to remove the flares and nuts , then gently bent the line a full 180*. If you get too aggressive the steel line will kink, go slow. Now get a good idea of where everything will fit before cutting the new transmission hose.
If you notice there is a square cut hole in the fender wall. A carriage bolt fits perfectly in the cutout from behind. Work the bolt into the fender hole from behind and put the nut on so it stays put. Cut about 4" off from the new hose and push onto the exit port of the filter and push the steel line into the other end. Push the other filter port into the factory rubber hose and clamp in place. Now cut the remaining hoses to fit so its not binding anywhere. (I cut about 2" off the factory hose to allow the filter more space. Be sure to have at least 1" of transmission hose on the steel line. I actually pushed the steel line into the resevoir hose about 4-5" to get the setup positioned correctly. Lastly, secure the hose to the fender wall with the clamp. Refill resevior and check for leaks.
A note about these Magnefine filters. They are designed for transmissions and steering systems. Because the PS system does not get dirty like a transmission, I consider this filter a "Life of car" filter. I dont change it ever. Without a quailty filter installed inline, the metal particals will tear up the seals and lead to leaks. The sooner you add this, the better chance you have to save your pump and rack from seal destroying grit. Also, this is a low pressure hose but you still need transmission hose to be compatible with ATF. Fuel line will degrade and ruin your rack.
![Image]()
These are called electrical cable clamp and found at most hardware stores
Here is a close-up of the installed clamp.
This is a carriage bolt, for those unfamiliar with a hardware store. The square head acts like a nut on the head and will fit in the fender wall. Im not sure of the correct size but you can drive your van to hoe depot and make sure you buy the right one. 3/4" - 1" should be long enough.
I had wanted to do this two years ago but it looked like more of a hassle than it was worth. But now I see threads talking about leaking PS racks and thats all it took to get me started. So this isn't rocket science but neither was it a cut an splice easy install.
A little background. If you have seen my trans cooler install you know I am a fan of the Magnefine filter. It has a paper filter element like an oil filter, a rare earth magnet to collect all sizes of steel fragments and a internal bypass safety valve if the filter should ever clog.
The filter of choice has 3/8" ports.
When you first look at the factory return hose, you will see it come up from the frame rail in a steel line then transition to a rubber 45* bent hose that connects to the resevior. You cant simply cut the hose and install the filter because of the angle. You cannot use a length of rubber hose because the turn is too tight and when the hose heats up from use, it will kink restricting the fluid flow. So I needed a way to route the fluid in a tight 180* turn without affecting the flow rate. The best choice was a steel brake line 12" long from the auto parts store. I have a tube bending hand tool which comes in handy for jobs like this. When you buy the 3/8" steel line it will have two flare nuts. Just cut off the tube ends and remove them. The flared ends will not fit in rubber hose anyway.
parts list:
Magnefine filter $15
12" steel brake line 3/8" dia $5
16" transmission hose 3/8" dia. $3
4-6 worm gear hose clamps $3
1 Qt ATF dex merc II or III
1" carriage bolt and nut
1 - 3/4" restraining clamp
To start, I emptied the resevoir into a large ziplock bag by disconnecting the return hose from the resevoir port. Point the factory rubber hose down into th bag as well. The factory hose will remain attached to the steel line down by the frame rail. The Asian car makers use metric so the resevior port is actually .5mm bigger than 3/8". I warmed the new transmission hose so it would install easier and pushed it all the way on. I left the full length of hose hang from the resevior for now. Hose clamp it in place to the resevoir with the new hose clamp. I cut the ends off the new steel line off to remove the flares and nuts , then gently bent the line a full 180*. If you get too aggressive the steel line will kink, go slow. Now get a good idea of where everything will fit before cutting the new transmission hose.
If you notice there is a square cut hole in the fender wall. A carriage bolt fits perfectly in the cutout from behind. Work the bolt into the fender hole from behind and put the nut on so it stays put. Cut about 4" off from the new hose and push onto the exit port of the filter and push the steel line into the other end. Push the other filter port into the factory rubber hose and clamp in place. Now cut the remaining hoses to fit so its not binding anywhere. (I cut about 2" off the factory hose to allow the filter more space. Be sure to have at least 1" of transmission hose on the steel line. I actually pushed the steel line into the resevoir hose about 4-5" to get the setup positioned correctly. Lastly, secure the hose to the fender wall with the clamp. Refill resevior and check for leaks.
A note about these Magnefine filters. They are designed for transmissions and steering systems. Because the PS system does not get dirty like a transmission, I consider this filter a "Life of car" filter. I dont change it ever. Without a quailty filter installed inline, the metal particals will tear up the seals and lead to leaks. The sooner you add this, the better chance you have to save your pump and rack from seal destroying grit. Also, this is a low pressure hose but you still need transmission hose to be compatible with ATF. Fuel line will degrade and ruin your rack.
These are called electrical cable clamp and found at most hardware stores
Here is a close-up of the installed clamp.
This is a carriage bolt, for those unfamiliar with a hardware store. The square head acts like a nut on the head and will fit in the fender wall. Im not sure of the correct size but you can drive your van to hoe depot and make sure you buy the right one. 3/4" - 1" should be long enough.
