HomeLink Overhead Console Button & Bulb Repair - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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#1 Old 09-13-2009, 06:41 PM
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HomeLink Overhead Console Button & Bulb Repair

Hi all,

After successfully ignoring the burning-out of the backlighting of the HomeLink buttons on our '05 XLE for some time, my wife finally managed to punch the #1 button up into the housing one day, so the time for a complete disassembly has arrived. I have two missions:

1) Repair the offending button

2) Replace the burned-out bulbs (Why on earth are they not LEDs, in this day and age? I cannot imagine that LEDs would have cost more.)

A search here of "overhead console" led me to a few postings about both problems, and I see I'm not the only one dealing with the fact that, when pressed often enough, the button will eventually break away from the plastic sprue that it's attached to via two tabs.

As for the bulbs, 4 out of 5 are out, so I'm looking at making a bit of a bulk purchase in that area.

After opening up the console on our dining table, I've got the button temporarily back in position in the housing with the broken tabs back in place, wedged to keep it there with a little piece of cardboard down the side. I have applied two drops of Testor's Liquid Plastic Cement (the really watery-consistency type that comes in a little glass jar with a brush in the cap):

http://www.testors.com/product/13663...nt_for_Plastic

That looks pretty good so far, and after an hour or so of drying, I'm going to give it the treatment again.

Turning to the bulbs, they're little incandescent bulbs on molded-plastic bases, which someone else here said is Toyota part #9001111038. (They're also wrapped with black plastic tape around the sides, so that light can only come out their top end, which I have to say seems unbelievably crude and prone to overheating.)

I haven't checked on availability at the dealer, but they're not unique to Toyota: I recognize them as being very similar to the indicator lights (e.g. Foglamps On) in the dash cluster of my Dad's old '83 BMW 528e. The trick is to find their industry interchange number (e.g. 1157 for brake lamps; 194 for wedge-base marker lamps, etc.), so that I can do a more wide-ranging search to see who's got them for the lowest price. Last time I had to do this, when rebuilding the '83 BMW gauges several years ago, its interchange number turned out to be some really obscure 4- or 5-digit number that not a lot of people stocked, but maybe I'll have better luck this time around.

Think I'll have to put the console back up again as soon as the button is (hopefully) repaired but before the bulbs are replaced, so unfortunately I'm going to have to yank it yet again later on. One tip I can offer on getting it down without breaking it: Remove the two Torx screws at the back end (inside the flip-down mirror housing), drop it down at the back end an inch or so, as far as possible, then work a finger into the gap on each side. Work your fingers forward as much as possible on each side, then use each (one on each side) as a fulcrum or see-saw: push up on the back end of the console to pull the front end downwards, and eventually the (very strong) spring clips will release. Having your fingers in there will help you regulate the pressure you're exerting and avoid breaking anything (including said fingers )

More details as they occur...

-- Andy

Andy Green
2005 Corolla S
2005 XLE AWD Limited
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#2 Old 09-14-2009, 09:08 AM
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There is a detailed discussion with pictures here:

http://siennachat.com/forum/index.php/topic,326.0.html

Hope it helps...
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#3 Old 09-15-2009, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbalon View Post
There is a detailed discussion with pictures here:

http://siennachat.com/forum/index.php/topic,326.0.html

Hope it helps...
Ayup, saw that previously; thanks.

One correction to my original post here: My last encounter with this model of bulb was not in the '83 BMW but in a '96 Pontiac Trans Sport (same as a Lumina or Silhouette), where they're used in the paddle switches on either end of the gauge cluster. The BMW bulbs were a different model. More details as I have them...

--Andy

Andy Green
2005 Corolla S
2005 XLE AWD Limited
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#4 Old 10-22-2009, 01:54 PM
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Getting a teensy bit closer to IDing these bulbs (i.e. the industry interchange number, not the Toyota part number)... These are short-base bulbs; the ones in the paddle switches of the Trans Sport are long-base bulbs, which stick up further from their base. However, it looks like my '93 Bonneville SSEi may use these same short-base bulbs in the shift console selector buttons, in which case I can start ransacking the GM database for clues.

Oh, and the Testor's Liquid Cement idea was a bust, unfortunately. Going to have to glue in a beefier reinforcement the next time the console comes out. I'm going to hold off on that until I've got this bulb situation sorted out, so that I only need to take it apart one more time...

Andy Green
2005 Corolla S
2005 XLE AWD Limited
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#5 Old 10-29-2009, 10:39 AM
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Facing the same issues as above (busted button + burned out bulbs).

Anyone know the part number for the cover/5-button component? The plastic has the following molded into it: VF 5001 832863 >PC<. I'm looking to replace this part as I doubt I can get the button attached in any reliable manner...
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#6 Old 11-01-2009, 11:28 AM
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Broke a button several years ago. The solvent weld acg did above and 2 part epoxy did not work. Used RTV (silicone) which is very flexible to bond the button in place.

Also put 3 dabs on the circuit board to support the button.
If you apply them too high you just trim them after it cures. You do not want to have to force the button hard to actuate its switch. A few blocks of soft foam on the board would also work.
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#7 Old 11-11-2009, 10:05 PM
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USA

Great idea. I tried the silicone about a week ago. So far so good. It seems solid. Thanks so much!!
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#8 Old 01-01-2010, 06:36 PM
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Hi again... Just checking in, but no progress on the bulb-ID/button-repair saga yet, as unrelated Real World issues intervened recently... (Well, not totally unrelated: impending winter forced a complete brake pad replacement all around, fortunately an uneventful project by Yrs Truly in the garage one night, plus a new set of tires all around... and did I mention my root canal?) Hoping to get back to this level of detail work soon, as I find myself glaring at the unrepaired button panel every time I have to reach over to the sunvisor instead, to resort to the old Sears transmitter...

Andy Green
2005 Corolla S
2005 XLE AWD Limited
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#9 Old 11-25-2010, 06:52 AM
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how to get at the bulbs

Hello. I see the 2 torx screws near the conversion mirror. I had removed them, and started to gently tug at this plastic console. How does the console some down? I don't want to break anything. I have a couple of the 5 backlighting lights inop. Tapping on them, will generally illuminate again. Please advise. Thx, DM
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#10 Old 11-29-2010, 08:00 AM
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I used these bulbs in our 2004 Sienna LE overhead console. Mine took 5, so I ordered 10 for future use.
Mouser Part #: 560-DNW1DW10
Manufacturer Part #:
DNW1-DW10
Manufacturer:
JKL Components
Description:
Lamps 14V 0.1A
URL:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...ARCOxKj7ac0%3d
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#11 Old 04-18-2011, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drmax View Post
Hello. I see the 2 torx screws near the conversion mirror. I had removed them, and started to gently tug at this plastic console. How does the console some down? I don't want to break anything.
Hi, sorry, horrendously long delay in replying, I know... Trying to keep track of too many subjects at once, I'm afraid...

Anyway, all I can say is how I described it in one of my original posts: the forward end is held on by some really strong spring clips. After you remove the two Torx screws at the back end (inside the flip-down mirror housing) and drop it down there about an inch or so, as far as possible, you then work a finger into the gap on each side. Work your fingers forward as much as possible on each side, then use each (one on each side) as a fulcrum or see-saw: push up on the back end of the console to pull the front end downwards, and eventually the (very strong) spring clips will release.

You could use any other finger-sized pry tool instead, wedging one in on each side, but I used my fingers, as I preferred to feel the pressure as a kind of feedback, to detect when the clips up front were starting to let go. Having your fingers in there will help you regulate the pressure you're exerting, as you want to use only the minimum necessary to get the job done.

Andy Green
2005 Corolla S
2005 XLE AWD Limited
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#12 Old 04-18-2011, 10:52 AM
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ok, thx

Quote:
Originally Posted by acg_sienna View Post
Hi, sorry, horrendously long delay in replying, I know... Trying to keep track of too many subjects at once, I'm afraid...

Anyway, all I can say is how I described it in one of my original posts: the forward end is held on by some really strong spring clips. After you remove the two Torx screws at the back end (inside the flip-down mirror housing) and drop it down there about an inch or so, as far as possible, you then work a finger into the gap on each side. Work your fingers forward as much as possible on each side, then use each (one on each side) as a fulcrum or see-saw: push up on the back end of the console to pull the front end downwards, and eventually the (very strong) spring clips will release.

You could use any other finger-sized pry tool instead, wedging one in on each side, but I used my fingers, as I preferred to feel the pressure as a kind of feedback, to detect when the clips up front were starting to let go. Having your fingers in there will help you regulate the pressure you're exerting, as you want to use only the minimum necessary to get the job done.
hehehe, i had forgotten all about this post, with the lts still inop. i'll give a try what you said. at least now i know of the strong clips on the fwd side. now i can tug a little harder. thx
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#13 Old 04-20-2011, 08:00 AM
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Ok. I still need help on how to remove the overhead console and the rear A/C control. I have been to links with pics but I dont see any pics on how to remove the controls or the upper console. Any help would be appreciated.
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#14 Old 04-20-2011, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freddyzp View Post
Ok. I still need help on how to remove the overhead console and the rear A/C control. I have been to links with pics but I dont see any pics on how to remove the controls or the upper console. Any help would be appreciated.
it's fairly easy. Try this
http://www.siennachat.com/forum/index.php?topic=326.0
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#15 Old 07-01-2012, 04:36 PM
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Also put 3 dabs on the circuit board to support the button.
If you apply them too high you just trim them after it cures. You do not want to have to force the button hard to actuate its switch. A few blocks of soft foam on the board would also work.[/QUOTE]

I needed a quick fix for my broken garage door opener button and found this useful post...since I didn't have time to add the silicone dabs - I used two relatively stiff ear plugs (the kind used for target shooting or rock and roll concert noise) and wedged them into the button hole. The electronics work (for now), but I think I will eventually replace these with a stiffer, single piece of foam, or add the silicone in the future.
UPDATE! - The ear plug solution is only a temporary fix - the bulbs are too hot and they slightly melted the foam of the ear plugs. I tried the silicone drop idea - but found that they were too soft. I suspect I needed a stiffer silicone when it dries. For now, I dug up the UNIVERSAL FIX ALL SOLUTION IF YOU HAVE KIDS AND A BIZILLION TOYS - the HOT GLUE GUN - I ran two lines of hot glue to put the buttion back in place. And I gave my wife instructions (more of a pleading) not to be pushing on the button so hard to open the garage door. One simple press works - holding it in a cussing doesn't bode well for any button. Pushing a button harder does not make any garage door open faster.

Last edited by patrickm96; 10-23-2012 at 09:20 PM.
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