So, I've got this 2005 Sienna with the powered passenger-side sliding door. Family reported that it was having issues opening/closing.
I removed the panel from the door to see if anything obvious was the culprit. I posted a poorly lit and more poorly narrated video here: http://vimeo.com/28332864 in an attempt to demonstrate the issue.
Long and short of it - seems like the key fob, button next to the door and the button up front won't open/close the door. It also seems to put the door into a weird state too where the door won't always open when using the handle.
If I use the handle (inside or out) the door seems to open as expected, unless I've messed with one of the buttons.
As I said several times in the video, it seems that there might be a sensor/switch that isn't working properly because the motor itself seems to open the door fine when it does open.
Not sure if it is clear in my video but if I press the door button to open, it will lunge slightly and then stop. Same thing when it is open.
Ideas?
Thanks much,
Matt
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wish I had some help to offer you, but I hope you can find the problem because I would love to hear about the solution. I have a 2005 also, but haven't seen this happen yet. I think your on the right track, problem is finding that common circuit/relay that involves the remote controls. I wonder if it could even be some sort of safety switch that is malfunctioning that the handle circuit may override. Not sure, just thoughts.
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wish I had some help to offer you, but I hope you can find the problem because I would love to hear about the solution. I have a 2005 also, but haven't seen this happen yet. I think your on the right track, problem is finding that common circuit/relay that involves the remote controls. I wonder if it could even be some sort of safety switch that is malfunctioning that the handle circuit may override. Not sure, just thoughts.
I'll most certainly get to the bottom of it one way or another. And will post whatever I find out on this problem. I love a challenge, but of course don't need to re-invent the wheel, so if someone else has solved this, I'll be thrilled to hear about it.
That's exactly what my brother in laws '04 LE with pass. power slider option is doing. I thought on Sienna chat that it was determined that it was the latch actuator, that caused this. Since when you use the handle the release by the lock actuator is redundant. But when pressing the butoon to close or open it is needed to allow the cable system to pull the door along it's track!
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Use to work for TMMI, own a '04 Highlander V6, 4WD, 3rd row, now has 125k on the clock.
My family in-law has a '97 Tercel CE Coupe, '03 Tacoma DC, '07 Highlander V6, 4WD, 7 pass. and a '04 Sienna LE!
Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and then connecting it back up? There's a ton of software code in vehicles these days. It's possible you did something that the logic didn't expect and it can't be reset unless you power down. It's simple to do, doesn't cost anything and just might do the trick. It did for my friend's Highlander with the powered rear hatch. Windows has come to the automotive world.
Also, there's a transmission selector position interlock that won't let you open the doors if the transmission isn't in park. Maybe that switch / position sensor is flaky.
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Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and then connecting it back up? There's a ton of software code in vehicles these days. It's possible you did something that the logic didn't expect and it can't be reset unless you power down. It's simple to do, doesn't cost anything and just might do the trick. It did for my friend's Highlander with the powered rear hatch. Windows has come to the automotive world.
Also, there's a transmission selector position interlock that won't let you open the doors if the transmission isn't in park. Maybe that switch / position sensor is flaky.
Similar situation with my 2004 Sienna. Took it to Henniger Toyota 2x in the last 7 years.... they charged about $190 each time but couldn't fix it or provide some possible ideas for me to followup on. Orginally borke during the warranty period. This time I left the vehicle there without paying.... give them time to think about what is reasonable and fair......
Maybe it's time for an impartial 3rd party opinion?
I was thinking it has to do with the automatic catch on the door. Cause the cable system and motors for the door are TRYING to pull the slider a long it's just the latch will not release the door to be pulled!
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Use to work for TMMI, own a '04 Highlander V6, 4WD, 3rd row, now has 125k on the clock.
My family in-law has a '97 Tercel CE Coupe, '03 Tacoma DC, '07 Highlander V6, 4WD, 7 pass. and a '04 Sienna LE!
Toyota used the same lock actuators on the '98+ Seinna with pwer sliding pass. door correct?
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Use to work for TMMI, own a '04 Highlander V6, 4WD, 3rd row, now has 125k on the clock.
My family in-law has a '97 Tercel CE Coupe, '03 Tacoma DC, '07 Highlander V6, 4WD, 7 pass. and a '04 Sienna LE!
seems like the release actuator may be bad, an easy way to diagnose these is that if both doors are power, remove the panel of the door that works and compare the 2 when you press a button or pull on the handle, the release actuator and the rear latch assembly are the 2 main things that go bad on these vans hope this helps
I have a 2006 XLE and it has developed the exact same problem with the sliding door on the passenger side. However the problem has been occurring very sporadically. Today the door started to acting up and I needed to get the door shut so I moved the child restraint switch up n down and the door start working. I was grasping at straws here and I never thought that this would remotely work, but I needed to get the door shut. I have no idea how or why this approach worked, but I will keep using this technique until it fails since this problem has been reoccurring more frequently the past few days
Well the latches seem to be the issue. During a rain storm BOTH would not open!! I just lubed BOTH front and back latching pawls with White Lithium grease on the sliding doors on my brother in-laws '04. In his LE one is power the other is not. And both were very rusty inside. Once the greease worked in they worked GREAT!!!
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Use to work for TMMI, own a '04 Highlander V6, 4WD, 3rd row, now has 125k on the clock.
My family in-law has a '97 Tercel CE Coupe, '03 Tacoma DC, '07 Highlander V6, 4WD, 7 pass. and a '04 Sienna LE!
We'll, I wanted to follow up and let you know that I believe I've solved the problem here. You see both the inside and outside door handle actuate the "Slide Door Lock Release Motor Assembly" mechanically and all the push buttons operate the door via the ECU, electronically. The simple solution is to replace this motor assembly. The Toyota Part number for the RH door is 856200-8061 and the LH door Part Number is 856200-8071. This motor assembly can easily been seen in the video provided by "itsmatt" in his initial post. At the start of the video the motor can be seen next to the interior door handle to the lower right side.
I confirmed this by looking at the LH door, which still works, and I could easily see that this slide door lock release motor assembly was properly operating unlike my RH door.
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Great info do you have any pictures up close of the motor or the replacment!
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Use to work for TMMI, own a '04 Highlander V6, 4WD, 3rd row, now has 125k on the clock.
My family in-law has a '97 Tercel CE Coupe, '03 Tacoma DC, '07 Highlander V6, 4WD, 7 pass. and a '04 Sienna LE!
I wasn’t able to post any pictures here in this forum. I wrote second post on the following "Tundra solutions" forum and I was able to include pictures of the motor assembly and it location in the door. I hope this helps to resolve your door problems.
I wanted to post a quick follow up. Tonight I finished the installation of my new "Slide Door Lock Release Motor Assembly" and the door now works again as designed! All the push buttons now open and close the door without any issues. The door no longer hits a hard stop while attempting to close. If you decided to replace this motor assembly on your own, go head an purchase two 69296-08030 replacement screws. These are the screws that hold the motor assembly in place and can be accessed from back of the black metal door assembly. These bolts come equipped with loctite preapplied to the threads. I basically striped out the Philips screw head during the removal process since they are difficult to reach and apply good torque. To remove them, I had to use Dremel to cut out the bolt.
Last edited by silvete; 10-25-2011 at 05:40 PM.
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