Help removing transmission pan bolts

[jo-e90]

Anyone have any luck trying to remove the 4 bolts hiding behind the frame.
3/8 drive swivel socket will not work.
Any ideas?

[Dave's]

Tried the ratcheting box end wrenches?

[PHW]

Go down to a 1/4 drive set. Did not have a swivel so used several short 1" extensions stacked to get wobble in it. Use a short socket, or grind one down with a wheel, files and/or coarse emery on a flat surface to "square" off the business end to get rid of the chamfer for a solid bite on the bolt head. You might try seating the socket on the bolt first and then inserting the drive extension in it partially just to be able to get some torque on it. After cracking them loose it was a plain old open end, flipping it and getting 1/12 turn at a time.

[Mikeman]

Originally Posted by PHW

You might try seating the socket on the bolt first and then inserting the drive extension in it partially just to be able to get some torque on it. After cracking them loose it was a plain old open end, flipping it and getting 1/12 turn at a time.

My concern was not so much getting the bolts out as I could have eventually gotten the one or two that are tough to access by using a box end and doing the 1/12th turn like you suggest. What I was afraid of was getting those two stinkers started. I don't like to start bolts using tools for fear of stripping the threads. How did you get them started?

[shortlid]

I did the pan on my '04 Highalnder. Same driveline and I was able to start the hidden ones with my fingers?

[Zembonez]

I've had to loosen trans or engine mounts and jack up engines / transmissions to get to bolts.

[PHW]

Originally Posted by Mikeman

I don't like to start bolts using tools for fear of stripping the threads. How did you get them started?

Depends on how clean the area is. If it’s a dry, clean, slightly corroded with no fluid leak area put a dab or spray of penetrating oil or even engine oil on bolt head flanges a week before you want to work on it. If your pulling bolts that extend through a nut fixture or casting that have the threads exposed lube them from that side too, if accessible. If you have a pan seal area that's an oil/fluid weeper your halfway there already. I generally run the car through a car wash that has a real good under body spray the night before I get under it to get rid of whatever crude we can. Before starting to loosen bolts that could be a problem take a flat end, 1/8>1/4 inch pin punch and set it on the bolt head and give it a couple of good taps with a hammer. If your pulling nuts on studs use a brass drift so as not to peen the nut or stud threads. Start early and always have your 2nd car behind the one your working on to make it easy to go buy drill bits, Ezouts, taps and next size up hardware.

[Mikeman]

Originally Posted by PHW

Depends on how clean the area is. If it’s a dry, clean, slightly corroded with no fluid leak area put a dab or spray of penetrating oil or even engine oil on bolt head flanges a week before you want to work on it. If your pulling bolts that extend through a nut fixture or casting that have the threads exposed lube them from that side too, if accessible. If you have a pan seal area that's an oil/fluid weeper your halfway there already.

I don't think I was clear. I can remove the bolts no problem. No corrosion issues, they all rotate easily. The thing that worries me is that since I can't really get my fingers on the bolts, once I've removed them, I can't put the bolts back in and rotate them by hand a turn or two to make sure they're not cross-threaded. If one of those threaded holes got stripped, I'd be in a world of hurt.