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Old 05-15-2011, 09:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Side Moldings

Has anyone installed side moldings like these:

http://www.dawn-ent.com/vehicles/toy...de-molding.htm

I bought a set and tried to install today but just wasn't happy with how they line up. Using the instructions (see link for install sheet) I set them up and taped them on to see how they look. The crease in the mid-lower part of the doors that rises from front to back just makes them look goofy. I tried mimicking that line but then the square ends of the molding (where the doors meet) makes it look funky because the molding isn't square with the door edge. Just wondering if anyone has tried this and maybe has a better solution. They don't look bad in the picture in the link, but you really can't see the door crease that's closest to the molding pieces. I was thinking about returning them but then bumped one of the edges and chipped the paint. I really would like to have them since we already got a nasty door-ding in the upper crease. Luckily the dent guy was able to massage it out.
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Old 05-16-2011, 12:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I got a set of these for the wife's 2011 Sienna. Worked out great!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Paint...item483baa743d
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Old 05-16-2011, 12:50 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Looks like the same moldings (same picture even). I bought the ones with the chrome strip to match the door handles on the Ltd. Did you mount them according to instructions? 15.5" above door bottom in front and 16.5" in rear? It looked to be horizontal which doesn't match the other lines on the van. What color do you have? I think the darker colors like the ones pictured may look better.
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Old 05-16-2011, 06:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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No, I didn't install them per the included measurements. Like you said, it just looked off. I don't really recall what measurement I used now that I think about it. Ours is Super White. If I can find some pics of it on this computer, I will post them up so you can see them.
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Old 05-17-2011, 07:06 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The instructions look like they want you to install the strips at an angle. Why not just look for the outermost curve on the doors and slap those puppies on there? And make sure they're level first.
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Old 05-17-2011, 07:18 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Overall that is how they look the best (at an angle matching the lower lines). The problem with that is the ends where the two doors meet are not parallel to the door edges. So it sort of looks like this: \ [] \ If the moulding ends were cut on an angle to match...so they line up straight with the door edges it would be fine. I could cut them but they're painted so that would look even worse. I taped them on with masking tape and from a distance they look good but wife gave them a "eh" once you walk up and look at how they meet the door. The directions say the prep liquid can dull the paint so not sure I want to install them and then have to remove.
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Old 05-17-2011, 07:48 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I've thought long and hard about mouldings but greek like they'll take away from the clean lines. Instead I park really far away from everyone. Nevertheless I've already had two dings removed. I can't figure out whether the ding makers of this country are malicious or stupid.
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Old 10-08-2011, 07:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aston4 View Post
I've thought long and hard about mouldings but greek like they'll take away from the clean lines. Instead I park really far away from everyone. Nevertheless I've already had two dings removed. I can't figure out whether the ding makers of this country are malicious or stupid.

I completely agree with you in all aspects. I am using these to protect my car. I mainly use them in our apt. complex parking lot..

http://www.doorshox.com/

I know they look ugly, but atleast protect to some extent and I can remove when I drive. I am using these mainly for protection against some people who care and think less.
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Old 10-09-2011, 12:29 AM   #9 (permalink)
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i'm not a fan of side moldings. as much as i hate door dings, i refuse to put them on the van. like a previous poster said, it ruins the body lines.

i've had 2 dings removed myself but both dings wouldn't have mattered if i had moldings or not. one was on the front passenger fender right on the wheel well curve. the other was on the passenger slider and the ding was a right on the upper line of the door so the molding would have prevented it. luckily i have a great ding guy that does awesome work for really cheap so you can't even tell where the dings were.
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Old 10-09-2011, 06:07 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ACS Rob View Post
i'm not a fan of side moldings. as much as i hate door dings, i refuse to put them on the van. like a previous poster said, it ruins the body lines.

i've had 2 dings removed myself but both dings wouldn't have mattered if i had moldings or not. one was on the front passenger fender right on the wheel well curve. the other was on the passenger slider and the ding was a right on the upper line of the door so the molding would have prevented it. luckily i have a great ding guy that does awesome work for really cheap so you can't even tell where the dings were.
That's why I went with lower chrome moldings for looks and heep the body lines flowing.

When you say dents were removed and cannot be identified where they are, do you mean you can still see these because you know where they are originally, but others cannot tell, right? From experience, I learnt Paintless dent removal (PDR) cannot completely remove the dent. I understand that it depends on who does it as well. Please correct me.
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Old 10-09-2011, 08:41 AM   #11 (permalink)
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The original dent we had was from a car that had the wind catch their door and jerk it into ours. It did a number but the worst part was to the upper crease which sticks out a bit further than other parts of the door. Since that doesn't really get any protection from the side mouldings...I have doubts about these really doing much regardless. Then likely only from a car...an suv/truck would hit much higher than the moulding anyway.

I do like the look of chrome bottom accents but I'm too cheap to buy something just for looks. I already spent $300 on other moulding I'm not going to use!

We had a good paintless guy remove the dent and you can't see anything. I was very surprised because that upper crease is quite sharp, but he did a good job. Luckily the lady who had her door slam into ours was an honest individual and paid for the damages. Even sent a check for more than the cost of the dent removal just to cover our inconvenience.
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Last edited by skinny2; 10-09-2011 at 08:43 AM.
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Old 10-09-2011, 11:27 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naturoses View Post
That's why I went with lower chrome moldings for looks and heep the body lines flowing.

When you say dents were removed and cannot be identified where they are, do you mean you can still see these because you know where they are originally, but others cannot tell, right? From experience, I learnt Paintless dent removal (PDR) cannot completely remove the dent. I understand that it depends on who does it as well. Please correct me.
i can't see the damage anymore. the reflection off the paint runs smooth and straight.
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Old 10-09-2011, 05:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ACS Rob View Post
i can't see the damage anymore. the reflection off the paint runs smooth and straight.
I think the person who did it probably is an expert. On my 2010 Highlander, I had a dent (more like a 2-3 inch crease) in the middle of the front passenger door where there are no curves. The guy took $200/- , 3 hours of waiting, and I could still see it exactly as it was. Yes, he buffed it to cover up the paint scratches. I was disappointed after traveling 25 miles one way to Shrewsbury, MA from Boston., MA.

Honestly, I am so naive in this car business (mainly modifications and repairs) I feel like a loser many times
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Old 10-09-2011, 06:17 PM   #14 (permalink)
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you have to go to a reputable guy who can back his work. most of the good ones offer a satisfaction guarantee where if you're not satisfied with his work, you don't have to pay.
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Old 10-09-2011, 06:39 PM   #15 (permalink)
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you have to go to a reputable guy who can back his work. most of the good ones offer a satisfaction guarantee where if you're not satisfied with his work, you don't have to pay.
I did not know this. But, in future, I will certainly go this route. Thanks
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