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Originally Posted by johncal
There is a difference between a load resistor to prevent hyperblinking and the normal load resistor that an LED needs to prevent itself from burning out instantly (or nearly instantly). The resistors I am speaking of fool the flasher into thinking there is a large incandescent type of load on them.
My apologies if I was confusing.
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The two things that prevent hyper flashing and bulb out warning are load resistors (splices factory wire) and electronic flasher module.
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Here is some good info that might help......
Why does turn signals flash faster after retrofitting with LEDs?
This is actually a normal response from turn signal curcuit. The curcuit is load sensitive and this is the way to tell the driver that one or more bulb is out. LEDs draw less current than filament bulbs, and it "sounds" like a bulb is out. There are 2 solutions to this:
Add in a couple of 10W resistors in paralell to increase load, but that is going backwords in technology. One of the advantages of using LEDs is less power consumption.
Modify flasher unit. This is only possible on 3 terminal types.
Replace flasher under the dash to a load insensitive type. They are sold in automotive stores. They are typically named "heavy duty" units because they can handle load of many extra turn signal bulbs. Truckers typically use them. You have probably seen them having 6-15 turn signals. An example of a such a truck flasher is the top one here. Normally they would have a different physical size and pinout compared to OEM unit. Procedure would be something like this:
1) get an aditional OEM flasher unit - if only 2 terminal, ground needs to be added as well
2) get a generic load insensitive flasher unit - 3 terminal
3) remove incapsulation on both units
4) glue/solder (2) into (1).
5) now it will plug directly into factory harness socket.
You can also make a flasher yourself with a an integrated curcuit like 555 or CMOS 4060. The 4060 only requires a single resistor and a capacitor to flash connected to pin 9, 10, and 11. See http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/cj_blink.htm for details. The outputs of 4060 can be loaded with 10mA which is enough to drive a small transistor/relay or a FET transistor. All parts should be less than $5, even cheaper if u can find some old computer/stereo system to strip parts from. Contact Herman (heranker@yahoo.ca) - he can rebuild any 3 terminal flasher unit to load independant for US$65.
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Very good info but the 10w is wayyyy too less. All the LED sites I got to offer 6OHM or 3OHM. Both being 50w.
If you know wiring and all this stuff, you can modify your stock flasher but if you mess up, you'll be paying $30-50 to the dealer for a replacement. An aftemarket/3rd party flasher module handles both LED and filament bulb for only $17 or so.
